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That was very educational for me ! First time seeing this Chico and thanks for posting it . I've downloaded the PDF incase I ever need it in the future . Never seen a revolver broke down this far and makes me wonder just how smart people were back when revolvers were first manufactured !
 
Awesome! Thank you so much!
 
Yikes-- all I do is clear it and clean it without disassembling anything... Hope that works for a long time because I'm not "punch and small spring" proficient! So far, my Taurus Tracker 6.5" barrel .357 is responding well to simple care and cleaning. Only one problem.... Which was solved by tightening the cylinder which had worked loosed (left hand thread).
 
Discussion starter · #208 ·
Yikes-- all I do is clear it and clean it without disassembling anything... Hope that works for a long time because I'm not "punch and small spring" proficient!
For a gun that never gets rained on, or gets sand, dirt, or lint in it, you shouldn't have to take it apart for years or decades. :)
 
This post has been great. I got my entire revolver disassembled tonight, ready to degrease all of the factory shipping packing oils for a Saturday project tomorrow. I also practiced getting the sear and hammer back together, that little spring is a pain.

I'm a bit worried about how hard it might be to compress the main spring and trigger reset spring when I replace them with a Wolff kit (for now, keeping pins in...once I pull them out there is no turning back!)
 
In my 22 taurus 990 tracker, the spacer on the muzzle end of the cylinder came out opposite of the way shown in the clarification photos earlier in the thread. It didn't fall out during original disassembly, and when I took it out there was a very clear oil line indicating which way it had been installed. I installed it back the same way (opposite of how it is oriented in the earlier photos) and everything is working well.

maybe this is specific to the 990?
 
thank you for this - I'm over in the UK and have a Taurus 66 "long barrelled revolver" (12" barrel as required by the law) and after 5000 rounds or so the cylinder/yoke assembly got really sticky and hard to rotate - your post gave me the guts to tackle this cleaning job myself and now the gun is as smooth as silk - couldn't have done it without your pictures - no way I would have figured out that whacking the cylinder was the way to do it without your pictures ;)

thanks again

solidslug
-------------------------------------
Still shootin' in the UK despite the government gun controls - don't expect anyone to fight your corner - just look at the UK to see what happens when you trust others to lobby for you!

taurus 66
jaeger AK22
Henry big boy .357
mossberg 500
winchester SXP
 
This particular photo shoot is of my 85 Ultra-Lite. It is very similar to much of the Taurus double action revolver line. The official Taurus revolver owners manual has parts diagrams for many Taurus revolver models. Find it here - http://www.taurususa.com/pdf/revolver-manual.pdf

Before starting your own tear down be sure to UNLOAD YOUR FIREARM and get a decent set of gunsmith screwdrivers. Here is an affordable set available at many stores that sell guns. B-Square 31-Piece Professional Gunsmith Screwdriver Set

Note: The photos are fairly large. If you have dial up internet, just walk away and get a cup of coffee. The photos should all be loaded when you come back. :)

I omitted the grip removal procedure to save photo space. Different grips come off in different ways. The model 85 has a single screw on the right side of the gun. Remove the screw and pry the grip halves off the grip frame.

Note: Starting Nov. 3, 2011 you have to be logged in to see the photos. This is because the photos are hosted at Taurus Armed now.

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NOTE: The photo below is not the traditional method of removing the sideplate of a revolver. It is a convenient way to remove the sideplate since there is a hole in the frame allowing access. Not all revolvers have this access. Be sure to do a search for videos showing how to remove the sideplate from a revolver. Prying the sideplate off is NOT recommended and can damage the frame or sideplate.
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Note: The use of fired (empty) cases inserted into the chambers will provide additional support for the extractor star when you unscrew the extractor rod.

Photo below: H= Extractor, I= Extractor Rod, J= Cylinder Stop Plunger with Spring

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Photo Below: You can also remove the cylinder release assembly if you want. It is held in place with one screw.
K= Bolt Spring, L= Thumb Piece, M= Thumb Piece Screw, N= Bolt


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Reassembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly.

To reinstall the cylinder onto the yoke just press it together with your hands until it snaps together. There should be a little spring loaded play between the cylinder and yoke.

The photo below shows what the trigger assembly looks like from the other side when put back together.


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After getting the internal parts back in the revolver frame, be sure to cock the gun one more time to hold the hammer and trigger springs so you can remove the pins or wires that you put in to hold the springs on the center pins. Remember to reinstall and close the cylinder/yoke assembly to allow cocking.

When reinstalling the sideplate, the top portion has a tab that fits into the frame before closing the bottom of the sideplate. If the sideplate tab won't go into place, be sure the firing pin's retaining pin is fully installed. The bottom portion of the sideplate should press into place with a little pressure.

DO NOT LOAD YOUR GUN!

Be sure to check how the gun operates mechanically. Check the hammer cocking, trigger pull, cylinder rotation, cylinder lockup, and cylinder opening. If you find that you cannot pull the hammer back, remove the sideplate and check the hammer spring center pin. It can be accidentally reversed and jam against the trigger spring center pin. See the third photo to check.


IF YOUR GUN IS MALFUNCTIONING, TAKE IT TO A GUNSMITH FOR REPAIR!

EDIT: If the cylinder won't close properly after reassembly you may have a spacer, shown in the linked post, installed backwards. Thanks to Sunset_Va for discovering that! Here's his post.
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/s...ms/smithing/22219-taurus-revolver-disassembly-pictorial-guide-4.html#post284801

Sunset_Va's photo


Here's a PDF file version - http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/members/4403-albums457-picture19138.pdf
Very useful information! Especially for a newbie of revolver like me. Thanks for sharing that!
 
thank you for this - I'm over in the UK and have a Taurus 66 "long barrelled revolver" (12" barrel as required by the law) and after 5000 rounds or so the cylinder/yoke assembly got really sticky and hard to rotate - your post gave me the guts to tackle this cleaning job myself and now the gun is as smooth as silk - couldn't have done it without your pictures - no way I would have figured out that whacking the cylinder was the way to do it without your pictures ;)

thanks again

solidslug
-------------------------------------
Still shootin' in the UK despite the government gun controls - don't expect anyone to fight your corner - just look at the UK to see what happens when you trust others to lobby for you!

taurus 66
jaeger AK22
Henry big boy .357
mossberg 500
winchester SXP
12 inches barrel ?? :eek:

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L__l


Will that looks like this?
 
This is great information and shows how easy it is to repair one, unfortunately doing this voids the warranty according to David and Taurus. Just got off the phone with them because my transfer bar broke and I was going to have them send it to me but they said it wasn't a part they send out that the gun needs returned, when asked why he said their gunsmiths had to do it because taking it apart that far would void it's warranty. If I ever find someplace that sells these kinds of parts I'll be happy to take this information and start fixing it myself.
 
This is very helpful. I took apart my 85 a year or so back and it is a pain if you don't have a pic to reference to ( I always take a picture of the guts before dissasembly)

Sent from a smart phone carried by a dumb person
 
Nice job of explaining the teardown. Now only need to explain how difficult it is to get all the little pieces to go back in all at the same time.
I bought a nice Taurus 94 SS ad took it all apart and smoothed and polished all the contact points and then spent an hour getting all the
slippery little pins and springs to say in place for the complete assembly. At least the darned thing worked afterwards.
 
Without reading this entire thread my question is how difficult is it to get the springs back if you are installing lighter ones? I'm a real handy person and not afraid of tackling things I've never done but I do have my limitations which could be the lack of a certain tool required.
 
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