I’ve used bore snakes on my revolver cylinders for a long time and brass brushes for those stubborn spots. Works for me.

 

Have run into that problem using .38 Special Lead Semi-Wadcutters in .357 Magnum Revolvers. What I've done is chuck the end of a Cleaning Rod into an Electric Drill. Put a Nylon Bore Brush into the Cleaning Rod. Put a clean cloth patch onto the Bore Brush, apply Noxon 7 Metal Polish to the Brush and use the combination to hone out the lead and Carbon out of the Cylinders. Some aggressive toothpaste can be substituted for the Noxon 7. It is very important to do this lightly and not go past the Cylinder Chambers.

Since switching over to Berry's Copper Plated 158 grain Flat Points for my .38 Special loadings, I've not had to bother doing this. Simply swabbing out the Chambers with any Solvent has been sufficient, so far.

 

I use a .357 Magnum chamber brush and elbow grease, works well.

 

I don't have to clean mine, I hired a chamber maid.

 

I buy brass brushes in the larger caliber that I have. When the brush is worn, I progessively use it to smaller ones. A worn brush for .40 caliber still fits tight a .38/.357 chamber.

 

I have used traditional patches with #9 but I also bought these which are pretty convenient.

Tipton Power Swabs:

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I seem to recall people finishing the range session with 38 Special by firing a few cylinders of 357. I suppose the longer case pushes out/reams the still warm residue ring to make cleaning easier. My wheel guns only get out once for every 8 or so outings with the bottom feeders so I've not experienced much of an issue . I suppose I should show the wheelies some love.

 

Ed's Red and your brush of choice (just not the stainless steel ones).

 

I use this.

 

I use (insert your favorite) bore cleaner on rags to clean out the chamber, then spin an oversized (.40) bore brush with my drill, then hit them again with the bore cleaner.

 

The only trick I've used that I don't see mentioned is soaking a patch in solvent, then stuffing them into the chamber right over the ring. Let it sit for a while to soak into the ring, then brush.

 

I have never had a problem with "The Dreaded Carbon Ring" in my 357 revolvers after shooting 38 Specials, actually not carbon until after several hundred rounds fired w/o cleaning (mostly powder, lube, debris fouling). I have gotten used to using a bore snake on my revolvers, maybe after a solvent soaked mop/patch is run through, and one or two trips through the cylinder produces shiny chambers. For solvent I mostly use Ed's Red or my version of it. Stubborn barrel leading is removed with a soak with Kroil then a bronze brush (sparingly) to scrub the barrel (but my cast bullets rarely lead my barrels). For really bad leading, which I have not experience since I figgered how to size my cast bullets, I have a Lewis Lead Remover....

 

Hoppes # 9 on my Blued revolvers My Stainless guns from the 1980s with the smooth finish and more desirable I use the Yellow Rag (forgot the name ) inside cylinders ,outside frame does a great job !

 

Lead-Away cloth.

 

a Lewis lead remover if it`s really bad ----------

 

Stainless steel tornado brush. But don't worry. I don't use it on the barrel.

 

Advice please. I got my first revolver with a 22mag cylinder. What do you use in 22mag cylinder chambers. A 22lr brass brush gets lost in there.

 

Most cleaning kits come with a 22 mag brush but I'm sure you can get 'em separately. I dunno' if a .25 brush would go or not, best to have the right stuff though.

 

For years, I never even paid any special attention to the cylinder......just tossed it in the washing machine with the rest of the gun.

 

Just a brush.
That "carbon build-up" is not the bugaboo you think it is. Sure, if you fire a few hundred rounds without cleaning your gun, you might have difficulty getting a .357 round in. But if you do the minimum required, you'll likely never have a problem.