[chicharrones]

From what I understand, empty fired cartridges with spent primers are possibly better than dry firing on an empty chamber, but not as nearly as good as snap caps.

The reason being is the spent primer is already dented to potentially the maximum travel of the firing pin. Therefore there is minimal cushioning effect compared to a snap cap or an unfired primer in a live cartridge.

However, many people make home made snap caps by using fired empty cartridges. They pop out the spent primers and replace it with carved up pencil erasers or fill the void with silicone glue and let it harden.

If we were talking about .17 or .22 rimfire, you can use spent cartridges by rotating the spent cartridge in the chamber after dry firing.

 

[tomeuss]

thank you chicharrones
it s a great pictorial guide

 

[45 Forever]

What I want to know is where is the spare parts box every time I take something completely apart I always have stuff left over.

 

[derrickrf]

Thank You, you are my hero.

 

[buscrusher]

Thanks to this superb set of instructions I was easily able to remove the grips and the side plate of my new 608 today so I could inspect its innards for the infamous packing gunk and leftover metal shavings that seem to accompany brand new Taurus guns. The good news is that since it had to go back to Miami for warranty attention it was all clean and oiled already. Since I had it apart I went ahead and shot some cleaner and then more oil in there once I got the solvent all blown out (using a can of compressed air).

(I detailed the particulars of my warranty experience needs in the complaints section because of the way I was initially treated by one of the customer service reps.)

The one thing I haven't worked up the nerve to try yet is to disassemble the cylinder to see how much that rotating part needs cleaning and oiling. I need to figure out how I'm going to support the crane and be able to rap the cylinder with a block of something that won't hurt it. It sure is fun, though...seems to be a fine piece of machining! I'm considering going over the entire gun to make it all polished and shiny. That, plus possibly a different set of grips, might go a long ways towards modifying the "attitude" some people seem to get when they find out it's "only" a Taurus! So far I'm really liking this gun! Hope to get to the range this weekend and put some live fire downrange!

Cheers!
Doug

 

[woots]

Currently using this diagram to break down a 905 and its been immensely helpful.

Word of caution ....when pulling trigger/hand assembly out...WATCH FOR THE HAND SPRING! It could go flying across the room...not that I would know.

Cleaning mine real good and polishing the SS finish with mothers mag polish. Not a huge fan of the darker bead blasting.

Thanks for the detailed disassembly.

 

[Petrie]

hopefully I never need to detail strip my new M85, but I really appreciate all the work that went into your post.

 

[1550vt]

I don't know if it has been mentioned here on this thread or not, but the UL has a steel insert that fits into a slot in the frame to hold front screw (one that has the spring and plunger inside it to hold the yoke assembly). The frame being alloy, has this little blued steel insert there to take the torque on that front screw. The only thing that will scare you to death is to see just how thin that area of the frame really is in that milled-out area....I mean like close to a beer-can. I suppose when you have to cram all the movin' parts in a small area....something has to give. That little part can be a real buggar to get back in. I ran a q-tip up into the slot from the front to hold it up so it could be slid back in place.

I was very pleased to find nothing but a bit of clean oil in the guts of my 85SS2UL. Some folks have reported finding various mill-shavings, or burrs...mine was very clean and I did not see a thing that I needed to do but oil it up and reassemble it. It had a pretty good trigger right-out-of-the-box.

Haven't had my 327 or 941 apart yet, but I am anxious to see how their innards look. I am changing the springs on the 85 and the 327 and may try one of the stock 85 hammer springs on my 941 to lighten it's pull a bit. Just a try and if I get good strikes....I'll leave it in.

Oh...one more thing, if you need new plate screws (if that has not been mentioned) Jacks First in Rapid City, SD has them for like $2-$3 each, depending on whether you are a dealer or not. Numrich says they are out of stock and I have heard "spotty" results on trying to obtain them from Taurus. I will be going through there in a couple of months and I plan to pick-up a few spares and save the $9 in postage.

AND.....YES...this is a very good thread and thorough detailed description. Thanks for all the hard work.

 

[baykal]

Thanks so much-great info - was on a roll with trigger/action work on a couple of Rugers and wanted to continue with my Taurus 669, but couldn't find decent disassembly/re-assembly info. Regards, Baykal

 

[JohnInFlorida]

Saving this thread as a PDF file

Many (including me) have wanted a .pdf file of this thread. I finally took the time to generate my own, but have no long term place to host the resulting file. Rather than continue searching for a host I just decided that it's easier to just list how to create your own.

1. Go to:
Free HTML to PDF Converter - Free software downloads and software reviews - CNET Downloads

2. Click on "Download Now"

3. Click on "Save File"

4. Open the file you just saved and right click on "wnvhtml2pdf.exe" then click on "open outside"

5. Enter
http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/smithing/22219-taurus-revolver-disassembly-pictorial-guide.html
into the "Web Page URL window"

6. Click on "More Converter Settings"

7. Scroll down the page and be sure that boxes are checked for:
"Generate selectable text"
"Avoid Text Break"
"Avoid Image Break"

8. Click on "Convert"

9. When the "Open Rendered File" box pops up, Click "Yes"

10. The "Rendered File" should open in whatever PDF Reader you use. "Save as" the file to your hard disk using whatever filename you prefer.pdf

I'm assuming this should work for others, but perhaps it's specific to the browser/software I'm using and won't translate for others without some tweaking. If that's the case ... sorry 'bout that, I tried.:blush:

 

[chicharrones]

That sounds like good info, John!

The reason I don't have a public pdf file is due to the bandwidth it suck up where I store my photos.

Sorry about the inconvience to anyone. :blush:

 

[Combat Vet OIF]

Cylinder not closing

The disassembly pictorial is worth a million dollars when you need to take your Taurus apart!

This is from a Model 905 Taurus, the 9mm version, perhaps it is different on the other small frame Taurus revolvers?

One thing I found , was that the cylinder spacer/bushing could come out of the cylinder during dissassembly, and if you put it in reversed during assembly, it will bind up the cylinder. It can be installed either way.

Here is a picture of the correct positioning for this bushing / part. The picture shows the spacer just removed from cylinder.
The stepped end, goes toward the front , facing the cylinder yoke.

My cylinder is not closing, therefore I'm unable to cock the pistol. Unfortunatly, I can view the picture that Sunset_Va posted. Can anyone help me out?

 

[chicharrones]

If you haven't taken your revolver apart, your problem might not be what is shown in that photo.

Make sure the extractor is fully seated in the cylinder. It should be flush with the rear cylinder face. If it is not flush, check to see that the extractor plunger is fully screwed in. It is left hand threaded, so turning it counter clockwise will tighten it. Also, if there is any debris under the extractor star the extractor will not seat in the cylinder all the way.

Make sure the cylinder yoke is pushed all the way back into the frame, too. If it has come loose, the bottom front sideplate screw may be loose.

Be sure to let us know what you find!

 

[Combat Vet OIF]

I made a mistake on my last post. I meant to say that unfortunatly, I can not see the picture of the bushing that Sunset_VA posted. I took my revolver apart to put a coat of Duracoat on it. After the firearm paint dried, I attempted to put it together. Once it's together, the trigger is hard to pull, the hammer won't pull back and the cylinder won't rotate. HELP PLEASE!! My wife is going to kill me if I can't fix her pistol.

 

[chicharrones]

Apparently, some Duracoat has gotten in places it shouldn't be. Without seeing your revolver in person, you are going to have to remove Duracoat from any parts that mate up, pivot, or slide. Maybe a photo or two of the guts of the gun could help us, help you.

 

[ashman661]

I love this topic it helped me so much............ thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

[proffett]

chicharrones, excellent tutorial! One thing I might suggest, though, would be to edit a pic of the Cylinder bushing into the first post... I had it backwards at first, and it took me a little while and some digging to find it, but once I did, problem solved!
Thanks for doing all the legwork!

 

[leserz]

this is one of the best how to do i have seen in a long time. you done good grasshopper.

 

[juanerspajamers]

I woke up this morning with an inclination to go shoot a few rounds after breakfast. Uppon inspection of my Taurus Mod. 66b4 I found the trigger had no resistance, and without lifting the hammer, was only advancing the cylinder, wich would not lock up, and spun to a slow stop. cocking the hammer also spun the cylinder. My first revolver disassembly went verry smoothly and having taken apart what i thaught would shurely need a trip to the factory i put together a gun that is fully functional and bad to the bone if i do say so myself. Thank you verrry much for the info what was wrong is still a mystery and hopefully does not recur but if it does ill be prepared

 

[chicharrones]

Just FYI, the web server my photos are on is getting changed over in a few days. The pics might disappear temporarily.