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Wow, really nice breakdown info, thanks! I was going to send my SS 85 back to the factory, but now I'm sure I can replace my firing pin spring myself. Just one question though... can the pin be removed without removing the hammer and transfer bar? Also, does anyone have a spare spring for sale? ;)

Thanks in advance!
John
 
Great! Thanks much for your efforts. I couldn't figure out how to break down the cylinder and crane. I use an old drill chuck to grab the extractor and unscrew it. Works on my S+Ws.
thanks again,
Armen
 
I just purchased another (#17) Taurus revolver, this time a model 94 22 cal, 2" barrel, ultralite stainless--it has an absolutely awful trigger. Very gritty feel and heavy trigger pull. Using these disassembly photos, what parts would you recommend polishing to smooth up the gritty feel and what would you do to lighten the trigger pull?
Otherwise, those are superb disassembly photos and directions. Thank you so much!!
 
I used paper clip cut to two straight pins to hold the springs in place. I have a question about the Model 94. WOuld it be possible, without harming the hammer drop to remove a coil or two on the main spring to lighten the trigger pull?
It seems on these 22's (and on my Model 17) the trigger is really heavy.
I used your disassembly photos to take apart my 94 and debur areas and clean up the workings to diminish the "gritty" trigger, but would like to lighten the trigger also.
Any suggestions or ideas out there, or should I be content with the heavy trigger?
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
I don't have the 94 for hands on experience. I have read around here a few times that the 94 requires a heavy hammer spring to consistently fire .22LR ammunition.

I can't recommend cutting the hammer spring, but I will admit that I've done that very thing on other guns. Just cut one coil at a time and be prepared to need a new original spring if you go too far.

Also, the trigger spring itself could be trimmed, but again it's experimental. The springs still have to have full length engagement even after being trimmed, even though they will be shorter. If you follow what I'm meaning, they should still be under pressure (not loose) when the trigger and hammer are at rest.
 
Don't go cutting Springs! Particularly the Main/Hammer Spring! You WILL be sorry you did as the Spring wears. Shoot the Revolver SA for long or fine shots and a light DA pull will NOT be necessary.
 
I have a Taurus model 94 3 inch 22 cal revolver made in 1991 ( I think) and it fails to fire all rounds consistently. If I re-strike the rounds the generally fire. Could the problem be a worn firing pin or a weak main spring?
 
draarc said:
I have a Taurus model 94 3 inch 22 cal revolver made in 1991 ( I think) and it fails to fire all rounds consistently. If I re-strike the rounds the generally fire. Could the problem be a worn firing pin or a weak main spring?
Difficult to diagnose without seeing it and knowing it's history. Try different brands of Ammunition and see what happens. I would replace the Mainspring first, but if you wish to save time and maybe do some preventive maintenance, replace both.
 
draarc said:
I have a Taurus model 94 3 inch 22 cal revolver made in 1991 ( I think) and it fails to fire all rounds consistently. If I re-strike the rounds the generally fire. Could the problem be a worn firing pin or a weak main spring?
When was the last time you took the sideplate off and thoroughly cleaned the action? A dirty action will cause the same problems as a weak mainspring. I'd clean it first and then worry about replacing springs. Take an old toothbrush to the back of the cylinder and under the extractor star, as well.
 
I bought a Taurus 651 SS about 4 months ago, I usually dry fire with snap caps but did not during one session and the firing pin seemed to have broke. I called Taurus and they said I could send it in or they would send me a firing pin at no cost. To confirm diagnosis, using the guide by Chicharron, I was able to disassemble and determine the firing pin had indeed broke at the base. I reassembled without the cover plate, locked the hammer back and hit the trigger and thumbed the hammer down a few times, which worked well. I tried to put the cover plate on, with the top grove first and lastly the bottom edge. It would not go down at the bottom edge, the plate seemed just a hair too big. I thought maybe I reassembled something incorrectly, so I removed all the internals from the pistol hoping that the cover plate would now fit with the same result. How much pressure should I need to get the plate in? I have the hammer out, but have not hit it yet. Any suggestions would help out.
 
Hi all,

I just got hold of a brand new Model 689 6 inch in polished stainless. It was lying around in a shop for quite some time and I think handled a bit too. I would like to polish it again. My only concern is the cylinder release. I do not need to take it apart at all , but would like to polish underneath the cylinder catch just to have a uniform finish. If I remove the screw that holds it , am I risking moving something from the inside ?

Cheers

Joe
 
First: Thanks chicharrones, for an excellent pictorial. I find myself referring back to it on a regular basis. I use it more than some of the books that I paid mucho bucks for. Good job !!

Second: longshanks, I think that as long as the side plate is on and the hammer is forward the internal parts of the cylinder release will be held in place by the hammer and transfer bar assembly. I don't know how wise it would be to do any extensive polishing work with an opening into the action internals though. I think that if I were in your position, and had access to this wonderful disassembly pictorial, I would completely strip the action before polishing the exterior. I'd probably even take the oportunity to polish some of the action parts, while I had the tools out. Just my thoughts, though, your mileage may vary!
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Sorry I haven't been around to offer advice. I was takin' a break for a few weeks.

Please feel free to follow up with any results to y'all's previous problems. :)
 
THANK YOU!!!!
Your guide made it a breeze to take my model 94 apart and polish up the insides.
I also replaced the hammer and trigger springs with Wolf's best.
No problems putting it back together again.
It now shoots sweet in SA and DA.
It would have been a challenge without the excellent guide.

KentB
 
14er said:
I bought a Taurus 651 SS about 4 months ago, I usually dry fire with snap caps but did not during one session and the firing pin seemed to have broke. I called Taurus and they said I could send it in or they would send me a firing pin at no cost. To confirm diagnosis, using the guide by Chicharron, I was able to disassemble and determine the firing pin had indeed broke at the base. I reassembled without the cover plate, locked the hammer back and hit the trigger and thumbed the hammer down a few times, which worked well. I tried to put the cover plate on, with the top grove first and lastly the bottom edge. It would not go down at the bottom edge, the plate seemed just a hair too big. I thought maybe I reassembled something incorrectly, so I removed all the internals from the pistol hoping that the cover plate would now fit with the same result. How much pressure should I need to get the plate in? I have the hammer out, but have not hit it yet. Any suggestions would help out.
14er, any luck getting that sideplate on? If not, try starting a new post in this section and see if you can get some responses specific to your situation. Good luck!

Coop
 
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