I just ordered one.

 

I just ordered one.

 

Let us know how you like it.

 

That is interesting, but it seems odd they would keep the very poorly designed stock trigger safety system, since that is the issue most people have problems with. I would also be interested in seeing them actually measure the throw distance of the trigger.

 

Their how-to video really sucks. "Look how fast I can move my hands!"

 

I have a couple youtube videos up on disassembling and reassembling a PT111 G2/G2C/G2S if you need further instruction, and if you run into any issues you are always welcome to message me and I will assist.

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks!

I have the same click noise Galloway Precision addressed in their YouTube video and that is not the lifter. That's the actual trigger bar not fully seating forward. When you fire at the range the roil assembly will push the slide with enough force to properly push the trigger bar completely forward but dry firing will not. You will have to manually push the trigger forward with your finger. I only shot one mag with no failures because I didn't want to chance damaging the trigger bar. I'm planning on reinstalling the original trigger and may return or experiment with the trigger a bit. My gun was brand new. Put 50 rounds through it and then installed this trigger. I put one mag (12 rds) and did not feel comfortable enough to continue. I reinstalled it today (removing the the trigger blade) and it functions flawless. 100rds without a single issue. I can not recommend this trigger to anyone who wants the safety of the trigger blade. The design of the trigger will not allow the blade to be fully depressed so it hangs up and clicks after it finally forced it way through. If you dont want a trigger blade than this is a great trigger. Galloway Precision says it is a 20% reduction, I'm going to disagree. It's more like 10-15% but the actual trigger face is nice and feels amazing when you pull it. It's $10 cheaper than Keep Tinkering's trigger that also does not have a trigger blade so if you are more inclined to not having the trigger blade safety his is also another option. My only issue (theoretically because I haven't tried Keep Tinkering's trigger) is that in his videos they don't leave much room for meatier fingers.

 

Asmund trigger with trigger blade removed and I also removed the manual safety. (My preference to not have one.)

 

First off, that part in the install video where he has the trigger bar, trigger spring and trigger assembly together and out of the gun, and he flexes it all the way back and forth to test the function... Do NOT do that. Due to the geometry of the whole assembly these guns need every bit of spring force they come with to get the trigger to return all the way forward correctly and consistently, I can assure you that he has at least partially sprung that trigger spring, and that will cause issues. I mention this issue in several of my youtube videos for these guns and have had to walk many people through how to partially rewind that spring to restore the tension. I have actually considered making custom stiffer springs for these guns just for this reason.

Also, did you notice where he clamped down the nylon trigger in a toothed vice to change the trigger spring? That seems like a good way to waffle up those ends of the trigger pivot point and possibly distort material into that precision machined hole, both of which can cause issues with the trigger being stiffer and not coming all the way forward.

The second issue is that while the Millennium series guns are great, and I REALLY like them, Taurus does have a pretty wide range of tolerances on them, which makes it hard to make precision aftermarket parts that will fit all guns out of the box. This leaves you the option to have a lot of excess pretravel, and overtravel, like the stock trigger does, and have it work in 100% of guns, or to design your trigger in a way that minimizes pretravel and overtravel, but requires a small percentage of the triggers to be modified by end users who have a gun that falls on the far end of the manufacturing tolerances range. The first option gives a sloppier product, but requires less customer support, the second option provides a better trigger with less travel, but requires more customer support.

Whatever trigger you pick, I would advise MUCH more caution than that guy on the Asmund install video is showing, and I would suggest watching my install videos as well, and if you run into any issues with these guns, no matter where you got your parts from, feel free to contact me and I will gladly try to assist however I can.

 

Don't know about this new trigger but I did install yours ( egad, what a job for big shaky hands ) and I say it's a must have mod if you have problems adjusting to the stock trigger. Other than the install, your trigger will be installed on a new G2C I'm planning on getting. I dread the thought of putting it on my bench and going thru that again but the end result is worth it.

 

I have no problems at all with the trigger on my PT111. I was looking into one of these for my uncle. He always complains about the trigger blade on his 111. Figured I would get feedback before mentioning it to him.

Thanks so far for all the info.

 

I should experiment with colors more. The supplier I use makes the best product I have found for strength, accuracy, and finish, but they only offer undyed and black.

I experimented with colors on my own, but they came out a bit faded and pastel looking. Red especially was pretty faded, so I didnt offer it. I should try again with multiple dye dips and color mixing now that I have a bit more free time.

 

It will arrive tomorrow. $20 did it, my tight budget allows for $20, sorry, but $10 more has an impact. As for the blade, I would rather have no safety. Keeptinkering, I didn't realise you had one that kept the restrike, I do like that, though I've never had a centerfire need it, rim fire yes.

 

Keep it in mind that the new restrike trigger ( if I understand it correctly ) will not shorten the pull as much as the SAO trigger will and for me the shortened trigger pull was what I was after. I can only speak for my G2 but after the install the SAO trigger pull weight was around 4 !/2 lbs. That's not exactly a hair trigger by any stretch. In other words, an accidental discharge from pressure on the trigger is highly unlikely IMHO..

 

Yup, waste of money. No difference from the original that I can see. Thank you Keep Tinkering for the videos on YouTube, saved my butt. Didn't pay attention to the spring on the slide release, half hour of my life looking for it, and by some miracle, I found it. And after seeing that trigger safety and what it is, I left it out. So other than a little frustration and experience, and $20, I don't think I'm any further ahead. So, some day when I have an extra $30, I'll be ordering from Keep Tinkering. Always the way, try to save $10, end up paying $20 more!

 

Well, gentlemen, Merry Christmas. I sincerely hope you've all had a nice X-mas and were able to spend it w/ your family, or some people/person whom you love and/or care about.

Anyway, I'd like to emphatically state my respect for those of you who have endeavored (succesfully, even!) to modify/switch your PT111 G2's fire control and/or trigger assy.

While I am extraordinarily comfortable 'smithing' (gun plumbing, really), assembling ('building') and modifying both the AR-platform and most Glock 9mm pistols, I am wholly unfamiliar w/ and purely virgin when it comes to working on the PT111 G2 pistol. Anything past a field strip and striker removal/clean/re-assy is untouched territory for me.

I am not opposed, outright, to work on my G2 - I'm just accustomed to adjusting for its rather loooong trigger pull. While I admire and even find attractive offerings from Keep Tinkering and the Galloway trigger, it's simply not something I'm likely to do.

Coming from a Glock-ish background, and being VERY used to and even warmly fond of the Glock stock trigger pull, the PT111's long pull initially had me throwing rounds low and left. Go figure. Small, striker-fired carry gun. Long trigger pull. Throwing lead low & left. Hmm. Seems mighty familiar. So, basically, I just adjusted my trigger pulling.

It does have a long take-up before hitting a 'wall'. The wall is what many of us (I'm assuming, mostly because this is how I do it, too) will automatically 'default' to taking up that slack prior to checking sight alignment, and firing w/ a slightly further-back pull past 'the wall'.

Again, hats off to you mad gun scientists who mod your trigger. A Glock 'mod' is basically swapping well-proven parts out. A PT111 trigger swap is a job. A committed, time-consuming job.

Good for you guys!

 

And a PITA. I will say the break with this trigger is smoother than the stock trigger, but as for short pull, I don't see it.

 

The SAO trigger I got is lighter than my stock Glock 17 with polished trigger bar and 3.5 connector bar. It still feels like a cheap striker fired trigger but nothing like the stock one. I also polished the striker and have the ss striker guide.

As for lost parts during trigger install... Taurus finally sent me the take down plunger yesterday that is currently orbiting somewhere around Mars. I modified a chopstick end where it was about the same size for a temp fix.

 

I believe I was one of the first to get the trigger from Keep Tinkering, it went very smooth for me and after
some time all I can say is "buy his"!................
Great feel and works very well in my gun!!!1

 

That little plunger cap on the spring for the slide release was my escapee. Bounced off the fridge and that was where I lost sight of it. After sweeping the entire kitchen floor with no luck, I calculated the angle and velocity and found it hiding in cat hair under my recliner in the living room. Truly a miracle I found it, I wanted to give up a couple times and order a replacement, would have been easier.

 

LOL nope I gave up after 40 mins as I still had to go to work. I remember having unused chopsticks from carry out and used the very narrow tip to replace the plunger. it pretty much works just as good but i felt like I wanted to have that replaced anyways for piece of mind. I will say they made the spring easier to do than Glock. That Glock take down spring for Gen 3 (and I assume gen 4) was the bent sprung metal kind and not coiled. I think Glock finally followed suit and went coiled in gen 5.

 

That's why I tossed the trigger safety, just a little plastic tang, when it breaks (not if), no more bang.

 

I saw a video tear-down of the trigger group of the G2, and when I saw that ridiculous trigger tab of Taurus's, I literally LOL'd. Good gravy. I pray mine doesn't ever decide to give up the fight, because I'm not really into tearing it down to repair it.

You know whose trigger tab is a solid piece of awesome (Besides Glock's, I mean)? Ruger. My SR9c has a trigger tab that is damn solid, w/ a very positive 'snap' back to home position - yet takes almost zero effort to move.

I know the G2 is built to a price point, but I wish they'd done a little better there. My G2 does still carry on, though. It's got well over 2k down the pipe, and I've since quit counting several hundred rounds back. When she gets weak coming back into battery, I'll switch RSAs and carry on.

 

Short stroke Asmuncd trigger PT111 G2

Anyone have experience using this trigger?

https://gallowayprecision.com/taurus/millennium-g2-pt111-g2-and-pt140-g2/asmund-trigger-for-taurus-g2c-pt111-g2-pistols/



Copy of what I sent to Galloway

I just did the trigger install. Damned good video. I like the trigger. I changed for two reasons; first was the long stroke, and second was the “catch” coming off the trigger safety. After finally fighting my way through installing the trigger safety, I managed to lose the safety poppet ball, but found and reassembled the pistol. With the new trigger, the “catch” was more pronounced than before. Since I had the tools out and the desire I set out to fix the damned thing once and for all. I started manipulating the trigger assembly and determined the “catch” occurred when the trigger safety claw [part 4.07] disengaged the trigger bar [part 4.09]. It looked like the claw was a little too long to be fully retracted when the trigger was pulled to depress the safety. So, first with a file then a dremel, the claw was cut down enough that depressing the trigger safety removed it from the linkage. However, the claw engages the trigger bar with enough meat to keep the trigger forward if the safety is not depressed. This side of breaking the claw off with a tremendous pull, I don’t see an AD under any circumstances.
Now the pistol functions perfectly, breaks clean at about 4.5# on the trigger, and shoots like a dream. The SS trigger is a huge improvement. I just wonder if I did not stumble on to the fix a lot of people are looking for in the PT 111 G2. Lots of blog interest in the trigger. Where you come in maybe. Why not market a new safety with the SS trigger? Should be good candidate for 3D printing. You might go on to sell the whole assembly, including that@#%^&!! Spring. Swapping out the trigger would not be too bad that way. Would I pay $50 for the assembly vice $25 for the trigger? In a heartbeat!

Yes, I understand and accept the implications of modifying a firearm with respect to warranty and liability. Further consider this to be release of Galloway from any and all consequences of the modification.

Thank you for the trigger and the video.


Randy Randolph
Anchorage, Alaska

 

I've been internet searching about triggers and that hitch in the pull for my G2c and stumbled across this posting. I believe Randy Rudolph is (almost) exactly right about that hitch in the pull, it is definitely the safety catching on the bar.

But, I think it is not the catch on the safety needing to be filed down - or whatever for it to clear the bar - but instead it is the spring on the safety trigger, it is too stiff for the actual trigger to stay put while it is depressed in SA mode. Check when it is in DA mode, there is absolutely no hitch in the trigger because there is enough resistance on the trigger to allow the safety to depress enough to clear the bar. Go back to SA mode and the hitch comes right back to the trigger pull as the safety doesn't depress enough before the trigger starts moving with it.

The spring for the safety needs to be softer to allow it to fully depress and release before the main trigger starts to move with it (in SA mode). There should be more than enough resistance on the main trigger itself to allow the safety to depress all the way before trigger movement, but the spring is just plain too stiff for the resistance on the main trigger.

Play with it a bit and see if this isn't what's happening. Then I ask, what do we do about that spring?

 

I too have been searching for a fix for the notch in the trigger pull of the G2 and would like to add what I have noticed. If the trigger is pulled straight back, there is no interference. But, if pressure either from the left or to the right (right handed or left handed) I experience the catch. Not sure where this is happening, but if it is too much resistance in the spring, why is it not happening when the trigger is pulled cleanly straight back? So I m not so sure either of your are correct in your assumptions. I m not a gun smith and haven't taken the action apart but I was hoping that someone out here could get to the bottom of it before I get too far into this thing.

 

I agree that the trigger saftey spring has too much tension, but the quickest, easiest fix is to file down the hook on the saftey. There is still plenty of hook left after filing and the saftey works as designed when done. If you would rather work on retentioning the spring rather than filing the hook I thing the end result will be the same.

I thought about doing a new trigger and SS striker guide but decided against spending $40~ on a $200 pistol

 

I thought about doing a new trigger and SS striker guide but decided against spending $40~ on a $200 pistol

It's funny how different people think!

I have always thought it worth spending $$$ to make something exactly what I want, especially if my initial cost was low. I wouldn't want to spend $300 on a $600 gun, when I can spend $300 on a $200 gun. Both should be exactly what I want when I'm done, but I'm $400 ahead on the "cheaper" gun. I really don't care if it says Glock, Taurus, or Dewey Cheetum & Howe on the side.

This of course is a bit of an over simplification of my thinking, but I think everyone gets the point. This mentality started young with me because I have been a car builder since a young boy. That has applied directly to my computer building and also anything else that can be modified. I truly enjoying modifying things to be more of exactly what I want.

Edit to reply to Buzzsaw46: About cutting it, ok, I understand what your saying. I sawed into it, probably creating a bunch of saw cuts into it at the end of the cut, as opposed to a rounded cut like factory. Based on what you're saying, that may be a future problem. I'll keep an eye on it, and maybe I can "clean" it up when I swap triggers.

 

Thanks for the information.

 

To Buzzsaw46, a very valid point. We're looking for a solution, not necessarily a perfect spring on the safety blade. Filing the point down is very likely the best fix, especially if Buzzsaw46 is correct that there is enough left to properly engage the safety.

I have noticed that Lakeline sells a trigger spring kit ($12) for the Spectrum, maybe one of them in the kit would be a good replacement for the safety blade spring. I may buy one when I pull the trigger out to either swap it, file the catch, or both and see if one of them isn't a bit softer.

 

So, let me give you an update on the trigger/safety.

I pulled thr trigger assembly out of my G2c and had to use a dremel to file the catch on the safety blade. When I put it back together it was still catching a bit, so I pulled it out again and proceded to file down a bit more, and then thought I should take the edge of the trigger bar catch, which I did. Now the trigger is nice and smooth, but I must have taken too much because the safety is now completely disabled, it doesn't catch at all.

Yeah, I know. Bad, very bad, for a carry firearm at least. It won't get pulled until the safety blade is back to functional - range work only for now.

So, I called Taurus and they are sending me a few new safety blades (free, too). I should have them in about 10 days or so. They explained they are unable to ship me a trigger bar, but I am just about positive there is no way I removed too much from the edge of the trigger bar, a new safety blade will still catch a bit on the pull.

FTR, I didn't tell them I had already done what I did, I said I was going to experiment with the new safety blades to see if I could get the catch out of the trigger pull in SA mode without disabling the safety.

When the new safety blades come in I am going to try something different on one of them. As it turns out there is no spring on the safety blade, it has a finger of material that acts as a spring/tensioner when you press on the safety. If some of the material was removed from it - the tensioner - it should have the same effect as a softer spring, and the added benefit of having the safety blade in a position that is partially depressed already, hence making it a bit easier to clear the bar on trigger pull. If that doesn't work I'll still have a couple more safety blades to experiment with.

To share info about filing the catches in the safety blade mechanism, this is what I have learned from this experience. Knocking the edge off the trigger bar is probably not a bad idea, when the safety blade is depressed it creates a bit of an angle with the catches and a "rounded" edge may benefit from this angle. When the safety blade is not depressed it has a straighter alignment with the trigger bar catch and the rounded edge on the trigger bar will have less of an effect on the catch. In this case, you will not file much at all from the catch on the safety blade. However, I think making the tensioner on the safety blade thinner will have the best effect, a nice strong safety catch that releases when pulling the trigger in SA mode.

We'll see. I'll update when I have the new safety blades and a proper fix for it.