Just picked up an M605 about a week ago and haven't taken it to the range yet. I had posted some threads here on picking up a new holster for it , etc and was pretty excited about getting things in order. Today I loaded some Snap-Caps in it and pulled the trigger about 10 times and the cylinder bound up so tight I couldn't pull the trigger. I could spin the cylinder with it shut and then it finally locked in place. I couldn't believer it so I pulled the trigger another 12 times or so and the cylinder bound up again and I couldn't pull the trigger. I did notice the other day that when I closed the cylinder that it spun freely until I reversed it and then it locked up. Unless I am missing something here it appears that I will have to ship it to Taurus for a fix...... Too bad too, since I didn't even get to put a real round through it. I'm sure that a lot of you guys with shooting experience know exactly what the problem is... but I sure don't. Is this considered a timing problem?
YIKES! M605 Broken Already?? What is your guess??
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Sounds like the cylinder locking bolt might be sticking. There is no dirt under the extractor is there? If you do have to send it back, the wait is running at least six weeks it seems. They've had my faulty 431 since march 26th and are telling me it "Should" be done by next week.
Good luck! I'm sure it will be a great gun once they get it running.
Good luck! I'm sure it will be a great gun once they get it running.
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Dirt can get under or around the star of the extractor and cause binding of that nature. So can grime and build up in the pawl area or the firing pin channel. Crud can get in and around the ejector rod and the cylinder rod.
Any of the above mentioned are going to need Q tips, solvent soaked patches and dry ones to fit into and clean the tiny areas around and in all these areas.
Even if the gun has not been fired or used little, this can happen. Guns sit in warehouses and other places and collect an amazing amount of buildup just sitting around. Even when boxed.
Guns are test proofed at the factory, usually, so early buildup can occur fast.
This may not be a send back to the factory problem yet.
One other area to look at. If the pawl is bent or out of tolerance, this can cause the same things to happen.There are any number of reasons for bent or damaged pawls.
From the gun being dropped, the cylinder slammed shut violently, and other reasons as well. Won't go into all the detail. Not enough space, but suffice to say all this needs to be inspected and looked under good light.
Any of the above mentioned are going to need Q tips, solvent soaked patches and dry ones to fit into and clean the tiny areas around and in all these areas.
Even if the gun has not been fired or used little, this can happen. Guns sit in warehouses and other places and collect an amazing amount of buildup just sitting around. Even when boxed.
Guns are test proofed at the factory, usually, so early buildup can occur fast.
This may not be a send back to the factory problem yet.
One other area to look at. If the pawl is bent or out of tolerance, this can cause the same things to happen.There are any number of reasons for bent or damaged pawls.
From the gun being dropped, the cylinder slammed shut violently, and other reasons as well. Won't go into all the detail. Not enough space, but suffice to say all this needs to be inspected and looked under good light.
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6,761 Posts
If there is a gunsmith in your area have him take a quick look at it. I'm not sure but the cylinder's axle (I can't think of the correct term right now) can unscrew sometimes, binding up the gun. I think its and easy fix and shouldn't take any time. If he says it's not a quick fix than I say to ship it in. And I wouldn't be happy about sending in a new gun for service either.
Steelheart
Steelheart
Hey... thanks to one and all. Some really good ideas from you guys. After my blood pressure drops I will get out my glasses and check it out more closely. As I said previously, I have not fired any rounds through it yet. When I first got it I took some advice that said to hose it down inside and out with CLP Break-free to clean out any loose metal and gunk. I ran some patches and dried it off and then let it dry a day and then put the snap caps in it to see how the action was. Twelve pulls later of both DA and SA I could feel the trigger starting to get hard to pull and finally couldn't pull the trigger at all (felt like the cylinder was locking up). I could then turn the cylinder and then it would be good for another 12 pulls or so. I can't imagine the CLP doing anything bad except maybe shifting some metal filings to where they shouldn't be. Maybe this gun is tolerenced too tight. Am thinking that I will check it out closer as suggested, lube it up good and use more snap caps for another 300 pulls. Maybe this will smooth things out. Can't get much worse. I am wondering if even after 12-14 pulls the metal can heat up slightly and swell causing interference .... Is that possible only after this few rounds? Maybe should take it to the range and really loosen it up. Hate to send it back to Taurus due to time involved and the hassle and cost of FedEx, etc.
-Thanks again and if you guys come up with any more ideas please let me know cause I really like the feel and balance of this little gun.
-Thanks again and if you guys come up with any more ideas please let me know cause I really like the feel and balance of this little gun.
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You do have a good point. It is possible that there are metal shavings or other debris in the action somewhere. Exploration of those areas seems to be in the cards. Happens to revolvers on a frequent basis.
The binding would not be from dryfiring. Firing live rounds can cause that.
Is the gun new or used? If the gun was used or tried out at the range prior to you buying it and ohers used it this stuff could happen.
One last thing. If the internal parts have a burr, are bent, or are dinged from use, these are possibilities as well. Even someone in the act of snapping the action shut violently, like in the movies, can cause damage to internal parts. If the revolver was dropped and took a hard fall damage would result.
There you have it. I think everbody covered every eventuality.
The binding would not be from dryfiring. Firing live rounds can cause that.
Is the gun new or used? If the gun was used or tried out at the range prior to you buying it and ohers used it this stuff could happen.
One last thing. If the internal parts have a burr, are bent, or are dinged from use, these are possibilities as well. Even someone in the act of snapping the action shut violently, like in the movies, can cause damage to internal parts. If the revolver was dropped and took a hard fall damage would result.
There you have it. I think everbody covered every eventuality.
Hey Qwiks draw... Thanks for the follow-up. Yes, it is a new gun. If it was ever dropped or mistreated, it wasn't by me. I baby all my firearms. If I can't get it worked out, I will follow Steelheart's advice and see if my local smith can take a look at it and maybe it will be a quick fix. I would rather pay him $50 than pay $50 to FedEx to have to ship it back to Taurus and then have to wait 6 weeks. I wonder if simple fixes by a smith will mess up my lifetime warrenty. Thanks again to all for taking time to help.
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What I'd heard the fix was to take a strip of leather and somehow turn the piece to tighten it back up, pulling the cylinder away from the back. If it runs more than $25 I'd be surprised (if thats it). Something out of wack sounds like another likely bet.
If you try the simple fix route, I just wouldn't tell. Anything that easy shouldn't mess it up but they might be cranky regardless.
Steelheart
If you try the simple fix route, I just wouldn't tell. Anything that easy shouldn't mess it up but they might be cranky regardless.
Steelheart
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Oh, I didn't think that you abused, dropped the gun, or had an accident. Others before you might have. From the factory, to all those who may have fondled it before you bought it, this might have happened. Oops happens. Half serious and half joking there.
Steelheart's advice is sound.
Half serious and half joking there.Steelheart's advice is sound.
Hey bigghoss... Yes, I thought of that also. Wasn't the problem. I did take some scrubber and a toothbrush and gave everything a good workover... Then some CLP... Cleaned it... Then some Oil rather than any kind of dri-lube. It did seem to help some. I can fire lots more snap-caps before it starts to bind. One thing I am noticing now is that it appears to bind on "one of the chambers" more so than any of the others. It will work fine and then it gets tough and then it will be fine... etc. I am hoping that the more I cycle the gun the more I might smooth out the problem.... Might be wishful thinking on my part, but appears to be headed in the right direction. If not, it's off to the smith for some real expertise. My kickin' the tires might not do it (LOL).
-Really appreciate you guys help! Will let you all know what the outcome is down the road.
-Really appreciate you guys help! Will let you all know what the outcome is down the road.
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I'd suggest taking a sharpie marker and marking which chamber it tends to get worse by. If its always the same one I'd ship it in. It sounds like something isn't quite in spec and that'd be best fixed at the factory.
Sorry for the bad news/thoughts,
Steelheart
Sorry for the bad news/thoughts,
Steelheart
Just make sure you let us know what it is when you find out. I'd still consult a good smith but if it is out of spec, like steelhart suggests, then the factory should fix it. I had a 'bind up" sort of problem on a Rossi 351 but it doesn't sound too similar to your difficulties.
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