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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first post, so please bear with me.

My millenium 111Ti-NS (Generation 1) DAO had an issue where the trigger would not always fire the pistol if you didn't pull it back perfectly straight or if you didn't pull it toward the right side (holding the pistol). If you pulled even a little to the left, it wouldn't fire. Wierd, yes, and also I know you should only be pulling it directly back. I went ahead and stripped it today. Upon disassembly, I removed a little less than a millimeter off the top of the trigger bar, which cured the problem. I got a little excited with the dremel & polishing wheels and went ahead and polished most of the contact surfaces on the slide and frame. It is quite smooth now.

1. Is there anything else I should polish while I am at it?
2. How in the world do you remove the trigger to polish the mating surfaces for it?
3. Does anyone know why they don't offer the titanium pistol anymore?

Thank you in advance. P.S. - I did try to search for this info before posting.
 

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The only question that I can try to answer is #3. I strongly suspect that Taurus stopped making the titanium pistols as they weren't selling enough to make it worth while financially. And the weight savings weren't that great if I recall.

Steelheart
 

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I stripped down my entire slide assembly and polish the entire striker and clean it well. I would say, just inspect it very carefully under a low magnifying glass if possible so you can see any details and polish any surface that make contact with another surface. I would used something like a 2000 grits sand paper or something similar and then jeweler's polish with a cotton buffing wheel. The result should be a mirror finish and should make the pistol very smooth.

I would going to suggest the trigger bar for the trigger problem that you were having and I am glad you resolved the problem. Great Job. In addition, I would UNLOAD the pistol and put in a snap cap and functional test the trigger very well.

You have three pins that holds the trigger housing in place. Tap them out with a punch from right side of the pistol to left. Press in to hold it in place and then slowly release the pressure so no springs will jump out. Very simple and easy. If you can take apart the slide assembly then you can DEFINATELY take apart the trigger housing.

About the titanium pistols...........the titanium wear much faster than steel so the slide to frame fit becomes slack. Also, titanium gauls when rub against steel. I dont know if you ever tried to rub titanium against steel, but you will see it sticks a lot and not as free as steel to steel rubbing. This caused a lot of jams on these semi-auto pistols. The great advantage is its a lighter pistol, but that is really the only TRUE advantage. Most people that buy a pistol does not buy one for lightness. And how much lighter you might ask.......about one or two rounds lighter which is not much. Not to mention, more costly for Taurus to produce and not many sales too.
Would I buy it, hell yea..........I would send the slide off and have it hard-chromed and then it would be just as good as stainless steel. I have done this with a few 1911 before and had them hard-chrome it to a few thousands of an inch thicker and file certain areas to fit it back and you have a nice tight, pistol that will not gaul.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went ahead & took the slide completely apart and cleaned it. I didn't have my dremel here at the house, it's at my shop. There was so much junk in the firing pin channel. I got it cleaned out, oiled it, and put it all together. Now the trigger feels rougher than before. I am going to take it back apart at the shop and polish the firing pin channel (I don't know the real name, but I am referring to the hole where the firing pin resides). I can move the firing pin with my fingers and it feels sticky. However, it looks quite clean and I did lubricate it with oil. Maybe a little polishing action will smooth it. The roughness is not in the frame part of the pistol (well, mostly, some roughness is felt at the very end of travel of the trigger even with the fame & slide away from each other), it is only from the firing pin. I expect the polishing to really smooth this action, as it did with the rest of the slide.

I don't anticipate chroming the slide. I do like the corrosion resistance of the Ti and can't see paying to have this thing chromed. Plus, if it wears out, I would think Taurus would replace it. I believe it came w/lifetime warranty....I could be wrong.....maybe they wouldn't cover it because it has been polished inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am still working on smoothing the firing pin channel. I posted in the 'Smithing' thread where it sounded like someone else had the same issue "trigger update thread". It's hard to say if it was the same issue, as I have never fired their pistol. I am basically bumping my post in hopes someone will see it and go "hey, I know how to fix that!!".

I'll tell you, this will be a fantastic pistol when I get this sorted. It's funny, I bought this pistol solely because the slide is titanium.....that has a very high cool factor with me. I guess I am an emotional shopper. But, I am also a serious shooter. I don't have a single safe queen, all my stuff gets a workout, I provide bank statements to prove how poor I am for buying bullets. Actually, I'm not poor....I'm broke. There is a difference, I read it somewhere. ;D

edited to add the thread in smithing where I elaborate a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE: I am done smoothing everything and the trigger is much better than before. I should be able to get to the range Wed or Thursday night to test fire. It seems fine while dry firing.
 
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