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I use a LOT of Winchester primers and have never had that issue. Which ones are you using? Standard small pistol? Magnum primers? Did they go off after a second attempt to fire? Did it look like a light strike?
 

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I use Winchester almost exclusively, only had 1 bad one in many thousands. Is there any chance they might have become contaminated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tried a second strike and nothing, brand new 1000 primer small pistol , the small magnum primers had no issues. All the rounds were loaded within the last three weeks and I wore nitrile gloves. None of these cases were wet tumbled. Its wierd have used 1000 wsp primers with no issues. Two different guns with same issues is wierd. Going to inspect them more tonight
 

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If the primers are not going off I look for a reason other than primers. It is possible the primers are bad but it is usually from contamination. For example a friend started wet cleaning cases. He buys primers like I do by the sleeve, 5000 to the sleeve, usually several sleeves. So when 1/2 way through a sleeve he started having dead primers was sure it was something causing it. At first blamed on maybe wet cleaning. Later figured out it was from over spray when cleaning and lubing presses, dies and reloading equipment. I have also killed primers from over spray of lubes. Some lubes like Kroil for example can kill a loaded round. Using action/ spring kits to improve trigger pull etc can also be a problem. Primers not seated fully can be a problem, with mix headstamp brass all primer pockets are not always the same depth. The firing pin seating primer to bottom of primer pocket may not have enough energy to also set it off. Many other reasons primers may not go off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the primers are not going off I look for a reason other than primers. It is possible the primers are bad but it is usually from contamination. For example a friend started wet cleaning cases. He buys primers like I do by the sleeve, 5000 to the sleeve, usually several sleeves. So when 1/2 way through a sleeve he started having dead primers was sure it was something causing it. At first blamed on maybe wet cleaning. Later figured out it was from over spray when cleaning and living presses, dies and reloading equipment. I have also killed primers from over spray of lubes. Some lubes like Kroil for example can kill a loaded round. Using action/ spring kits to improve trigger pull etc can also be a problem. Primers not seated fully can be a problem, with mix headstamp brass all primer pockets are not always the same depth. The firing pin seating primer to bottom of primer pocket may not have enough energy to also set it off. Many other reasons primers may not go off.
Yep I could see that happening. I store the primers far away from anywhere where they can be contaminated and usually are used right away after seating. I am looking for a way they could be contaminated because its the only thing that woupd make sense
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took apart my my 9mm pistol and cleaned and inspected everything tests good. Cleaned my .357 magnum and everything looked good as well. Inspected 100 rounds I had left from the batch giving issues and they all look good. tried them in the barrel thinking maybe they were off a bit and it was slightly out of battery maybe causing weak primer strikes. All check good. The two rounds from the 357 magnum, one was a .38 special and one was a .357 magnum, two different bullets loaded two weeks apart according to my notes. I have had some primers not go off in the past but just re chamber them and they go off on the second strike. I have been driving my wife nuts trying to figure out the issue lol One thing I failed to do is write the batch number of the primer box on my notes which I will do from now on to keep track of this issue. Thanks for everyones input I surely appreciate it ! If I figure out what the issue was other than just bad primers I shall update.
 

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AS OldRedNeck said about primers not seating fully
I was sizing and depriming on a press and I could feel the ' Glock budge " being harder on the lever and might have short stroked the primer at the same time ( range brass )
I now deprime and size OFF the press and can feel more of whats going on
I've had no lite strikes for years
Also could be a adjustment on your primer depth
 

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Winchester primers are my preferred primer. I would suspect contamination too. I've never had an issue with these, but even Winchester could have a bad run in a lot. Did these have the same lot number?
 
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Let me zero in on primer seating depth. It could be not deep enough or too deep. But it's more than likely not deep enough. My 2 cents.
 

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Once upon a time I got this used Taurus PT92C, very nice gun. It would fire any factory ammo I tried in it and finally tried some reloads. Dang it I was getting 50% FTF and some even failed on a second strike. So I asked on the forums and everyone kept telling me the same thing. Primers are not seated all the way! I kind of believed at first but no matter what it kept happening. Well the reloads were all done with CCI 500 SPP so I was able to pick up 100 Winchester WSP and loaded them up the same way. Magically every one of those rounds fired. Loaded up another 25 rounds with the CCI and right back to FTF issues.

In the end it was not my priming technique, it was not the primers, it was and is the gun. I do not have history on this gun but I can tell it has a lighter spring and also has a White Outline rear sight. Something no one else has ever seen on any of these guns, or at least not that I have been able to find. So were the sight and spring altered? I don't know, but it shoots so sweet that I am not going to change it. I have just decided that I won't load 9mm with CCI primers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Winchester primers are my preferred primer. I would suspect contamination too. I've never had an issue with these, but even Winchester could have a bad run in a lot. Did these have the same lot number?
They all had same lot number.

Once upon a time I got this used Taurus PT92C, very nice gun. It would fire any factory ammo I tried in it and finally tried some reloads. Dang it I was getting 50% FTF and some even failed on a second strike. So I asked on the forums and everyone kept telling me the same thing. Primers are not seated all the way! I kind of believed at first but no matter what it kept happening. Well the reloads were all done with CCI 500 SPP so I was able to pick up 100 Winchester WSP and loaded them up the same way. Magically every one of those rounds fired. Loaded up another 25 rounds with the CCI and right back to FTF issues.

In the end it was not my priming technique, it was not the primers, it was and is the gun. I do not have history on this gun but I can tell it has a lighter spring and also has a White Outline rear sight. Something no one else has ever seen on any of these guns, or at least not that I have been able to find. So were the sight and spring altered? I don't know, but it shoots so sweet that I am not going to change it. I have just decided that I won't load 9mm with CCI primers.
Could be, I have ran 400 Winchester primers through the gun and 200 cci before this started happening which is the weird thing. I shot 50 wsp with no issues then a few did not go off. then shot another 40 and a few did not go off. some I loaded would go off second time I tried striking. Im going to try the remaining 150 rounds I have and im going to load some more with the same batch number. Have about 600 more to go from the same batch number and 2000 cci primers. If the wsp give me issues I will try the cci. If they both give me issues I will try a few boxes of factory ammo. These issues are going to make me go bald with my ocd lol

Let me zero in on primer seating depth. It could be not deep enough or too deep. But it's more than likely not deep enough. My 2 cents.
not deep enough would cause primers to not go off?
 

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yea-- color me on the primers not seated right and /or contamination.
I have primed with a lee hand primer for decades as i find it easier, more precise, less likely to be contaminated and seats more precisely than press priming.
one should look at all the possible chemicals .oils etc that can be introduced through the entire reloading process , such as cleaning, lubricating, et-etc-etc.
I clean and tumble my rifle cases even though they say the lube is primer friendly, just saying.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yea-- color me on the primers not seated right and /or contamination.
I have primed with a lee hand primer for decades as i find it easier, more precise, less likely to be contaminated and seats more precisely than press priming.
one should look at all the possible chemicals .oils etc that can be introduced through the entire reloading process , such as cleaning, lubricating, et-etc-etc.
I clean and tumble my rifle cases even though they say the lube is primer friendly, just saying.

which lee hand primer do you use? I am just using the lee ram prime system at the moment looking for something more convenient then setting up the whole press just to prime.
 

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Lee and a few others make hand primer tools that work great. Have several and use Lee most because easy to use and refill with primers. Pull the bullets and powder from the dud rounds. Then deprive and catch the primers. It is simple to see if they have anvil and priming compound when placed next to good primers. The reason primers that are not seated deep enough, to bottom of primer pocket, do not always go off is simple. When the firing pin hits a shallow seated primer it drives the primer deeper into the pocket. Instead of the energy of the pin driving anvil of primer into primer compound it is seating primer. Seating a primer too deep and hard can set the primer off, it can also crush the anvil and not set it off resulting in a dud. Cases with a primer crimp ring like military surplus that do not have crimp ring removed are hard to seat and subject to problems. You said you wear gloves, that isn't bad, but the gloves attract things due to static that can cause promlems. I would by looking at the dud primers first. Never try to seat primer on a loaded round deeper. I'm anal and check cases before loading for issues like cracks and primer pocket/flash hole issues when using range brass. As said before it is possible to have bad primers. From the early 60's till now have been lucky, primer problems have always been mine with exception of some Remington primers over 40 years ago with no priming compound. That was easy to see. Also some black powder percussion caps with no priming compound, also easy to see. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Lee and a few others make hand primer tools that work great. Have several and use Lee most because easy to use and refill with primers. Pull the bullets and powder from the dud rounds. Then deprive and catch the primers. It is simple to see if they have anvil and priming compound when placed next to good primers. The reason primers that are not seated deep enough, to bottom of primer pocket, do not always go off is simple. When the firing pin hits a shallow seated primer it drives the primer deeper into the pocket. Instead of the energy of the pin driving anvil of primer into primer compound it is seating primer. Seating a primer too deep and hard can set the primer off, it can also crush the anvil and not set it off resulting in a dud. Cases with a primer crimp ring like military surplus that do not have crimp ring removed are hard to seat and subject to problems. You said you wear gloves, that isn't bad, but the gloves attract things due to static that can cause promlems. I would by looking at the dud primers first. Never try to seat primer on a loaded round deeper. I'm anal and check cases before loading for issues like cracks and primer pocket/flash hole issues when using range brass. As said before it is possible to have bad primers. From the early 60's till now have been lucky, primer problems have always been mine with exception of some Remington primers over 40 years ago with no priming compound. That was easy to see. Also some black powder percussion caps with no priming compound, also easy to see. Good luck
thanks for the heads up, never though that not seating it enough would cause such a issue but it does make sense. could very well be too deep or crushed, I remember when seating the primers some gave me a few issues and I had to push harder than usual. This was my last batch before I started wet tumbling so I will be sure to just seat firmly and not over torque the ram prime.

I thought that the ram priming had a stop to prevent smashing the primers but it may very well be that. Going to def look into getting a hand priming system.
 

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which lee hand primer do you use? I am just using the lee ram prime system at the moment looking for something more convenient then setting up the whole press just to prime.

I believe its the ergo prime?
have had 3-4 over the many years--they do wear out --eventually-- but aren't really expensive.
you can sit and watch TV, talk ,what ever and prime as basically its a feel process anyway.
I never touch a primer from getting the box out to the finished bullet, so contamination is almost non existent, and as its done off the press then contamination for oils, grease, fingertips is almost also non existent.
like many things reloading related its not for everyone but I like it.
different manufacture brass will have different tightness of primer pocket, also some brass is crimped into place--usually military or Nato ammo, so look for that before trying to prime.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I believe its the ergo prime?
have had 3-4 over the many years--they do wear out --eventually-- but aren't really expensive.
you can sit and watch TV, talk ,what ever and prime as basically its a feel process anyway.
I never touch a primer from getting the box out to the finished bullet, so contamination is almost non existent, and as its done off the press then contamination for oils, grease, fingertips is almost also non existent.
like many things reloading related its not for everyone but I like it.
different manufacture brass will have different tightness of primer pocket, also some brass is crimped into place--usually military or Nato ammo, so look for that before trying to prime.
when I was using the hand press I def seated more by feel, with the increased leverage of a bench press its hard to. Ordered a hand priming tool with shell holders will def update once I put hands on it.
 
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