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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the first 1911 I've owned and really like this pistol, but I do have a question on changing clips when firing. When the slide locks back after the last round of a clip and you change clips, do you hit the slide release to chamber the first round of the new clip or rack the slide back and let it chamber the round? I ask this as I've been using the slide release, but the last two times I've fired the pistol after a couple of clips it will not go to full battery. The round will only chamber about half way and requires a tap of the back of the slide to fully chamber. If I rack the slide on a new clip it will fully chamber but this method does take just a bit more time to preform. I'm using the stock clips as well as some 10rnd McCormacks with Rem 230gr JHP's. Once the first round is loaded it has never FTF in 600rnds.
 

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I use both methods, but most of the time I 'slingshoot' the slide. At the range I'm not in a hurry so extra second is not a problem...But it is easier on the slide release (will likely last longer).

btw the battey issue might have someting to do with the ammo...
 

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Ditto to what Gray_Wolf said on the sling shot method. Even JHP rounds that are resistant to feeding do so much better if sling shot from a full 8 round mag. This method has worked for me every time without one incident of failure to feed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is the "sling shot" method pulling back the slide to chambe the new round???

I guess what suprised me was that I've put almost 400rnds of the same JHP's thru the pistol with no problem on mag swaps and now it rears it's ugly head.

I'm going to try it with -1 in the clips to see if it is a mag issue and then try some other ammo if it this remains an issue.

Thanks for the replys.
 

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A CHL teacher at the range told me to forget the slide release and just rack it into service every time - he said that if you're in a position that is about to, or already has, turned into a gunfight, your motor skills diminish, like trying to put a key in a keyhole......and that trying to push the slide release could get you killed. Apparently it's much easier to just rack the slide to get your first round loaded.
 

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I have used both methods in a combat situation. I much preferred using the slide catch. At the range I use the sling shot method.
 

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Pull back on the slide until the mag release drops and let go of the slide.
Just habit from the striker guns with small slide releases. Although in
competition it is faster to thumb the release down.

Also polish the feed ramp. Another suggestion is to polish the feed ramp.
When your finished with that try polishing the feed ramp. :D
 

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I get nose dives on a 8 round mag on my 1911 if I sligshot the first round no matter if its FMJ or HP if I drop the slide stop it works perfect, I have no idea as to why if I download it to 7 rounds it will work fine either way.
 

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Polishing the feed ramp my prove to be a solution to your issue. Caution should be advised to make certain that you keep the ramp angle to the bore in the same plane. Also you shoule be aware that too much material removal will expose more of the brass. More than .090" of unsupported brass exposure will cause an unsafe condition. Remember that angle is more important than changing the surface. Just my $.02.
 

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airwrench said:
Also polish the feed ramp. Another suggestion is to polish the feed ramp.
When your finished with that try polishing the feed ramp. :D
Listen to the aviation guy ;) I'm currently usingthis approach for this same problem on my Springfield after ruling out magazine malfuntions.
 

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On most guns I wouldn't recommend a dermal, but on the 1911 where the feed ramp is exposed... the round felt drum and Mother's Aluminum Polish does a great job. The dermal and the felt drum will liquefy the the polish and the metal coloring... with just a little careful use you will find that the feed ramp will polish up like a mirror. No excess metal removed... no grooves or scratches... just a bright metal polish.

It will turn black after each shooting, but even a Kleenex with no solvent will restore the polish and you're ready to go!
 

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Cimarron said:
On most guns I wouldn't recommend a dermal, but on the 1911 where the feed ramp is exposed... the round felt drum and Mother's Aluminum Polish does a great job. The dermal and the felt drum will liquefy the the polish and the metal coloring... with just a little careful use you will find that the feed ramp will polish up like a mirror. No excess metal removed... no grooves or scratches... just a bright metal polish.

It will turn black after each shooting, but even a Kleenex with no solvent will restore the polish and you're ready to go!
Yeah, I know we are supposed to be nice to Mod's. But I been at hospital, and feel like others in a cutsy mood.

SO WHAT THE HECK IS A "DERMAL"!!

Yeah, I know what he meant!! BUT I JUST HAD TO DO IT!!!
 

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Is there a full moon comin' on? I feel the same way. :evil: :guns: :devil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry....mags~

After firing some more ammo Sunday, I'm noticed that I'm getting nose dives, so I'm guessing a magazine issue. Strange that it took several hundred rounds for this to crop up. I've cleaned the mags and the first 3 to 5 mags work fine. Once the pistol dirties up and gets warm is when the problem occurs. Going to get some FMJ's to see if it happens with them.

Also some polishing should keep me busy tonight till the storms pass. Once again thanks for the help guys.
 
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