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what to use oil or grease

5677 Views 44 Replies 38 Participants Last post by  ETF
new taurus 1911 always before cleaned guns used a little reminton oil on barrell and rails on other guns store told me to use grease on gun any recomendations what areas for grease and what for oil and why grease vs oil ??

jhp
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Welcome, and Grats on the new PT1911!

Here's a good video on basic greasing and oiling of a 1911:


I like RemOil for the oil, and Tetra for the grease, but there are almost as many excellent products out there as
there are gun owners, so a lot of it is personal preference. Basically, you want to use grease on areas where
there will oil may not stay put.
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Thank you
...whatever she is in to.
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Welcome, and Grats on the new PT1911!

Basically, you want to use grease on areas where there will oil may not stay put.
An old machine adage... grease where parts slide across each other and oil where they turn round each other... That was a good video post, but I believe he used WAY too much grease and oil. I'd rather have too little than too much, but YMMV.
slip2000 is the way to go I think! They make lube and grease. I have never used the grease. But the lube, carbon buster and degreaser work great. Carbon buster is amazing on new guns to get all that extra crap off them from the factory.
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new taurus 1911 always before cleaned guns used a little reminton oil on barrell and rails on other guns store told me to use grease on gun any recomendations what areas for grease and what for oil and why grease vs oil ??

jhp
The Marine Corps taught me, beginning in 1969, to use Hoppe's oil on my weapons (including a M-60 machine gun I carried and which never jammed or failed to function perfectly) and I've not had any reason to change brands since then.

If it ain't broke........................
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I think grease where metal slides on anything for long periods of time.
The Marine Corps taught me, beginning in 1969, to use Hoppe's oil on my weapons (including a M-60 machine gun I carried and which never jammed or failed to function perfectly) and I've not had any reason to change brands since then. If it ain't broke........................
Yup, and there were times when I had to field strip my GI .45 just to clear out the mud or sand from it and the only lube available was off the tip of a vehicles dipstick. Would it still work? Flawlessly! That folks is the true beauty of a 1911 pistol....
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An old machine adage... grease where parts slide across each other and oil where they turn round each other... That was a good video post, but I believe he used WAY too much grease and oil. I'd rather have too little than too much, but YMMV.
I used to shoot with a guy who always said if you didn't get a face full of oil on the first shot you weren't using enough. I just hate trying to clean that off my shooting glasses.

I tend to use grease on the rails only. I'll apply it then gently smooth it out with a baby toothbrush, which removes any excess. I think if your gun is getting cleaned every time you shoot it, then just about any method works. The guy in the video says he uses oil on his competition guns, re-oiling every 200 rounds and cleaning every 1,000.

I'm betting most of us clean them well after every session, which is what? 200-300 rounds? I think if that's what you do just oil is fine.
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you are probably going to clean it after shooting each time, so oil is a better way to go.
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I have had great luck with slip 2000 EWL SPS Marketing Inc. / Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Lubricant 1oz. Bottle

4.5 years and my parts are still lubed and protected.

6 months after applying remoil the oil had evaporated and my choke tubes and shotgun barrel were very rusted.
Mil-comm TW25B is awesome in my book. It's thick enough to stay were you put it and do the job, yet thin enough to work with easily. It also seems to age pretty well, which has been a problem for me with other stuff in the past, and it cleans up easily. (If you need something with more penetrating power, their MC2500 is good, too. It's thicker than many oils, so it is better at staying where you put it, but still has excellent wicking qualities.)
I have had great luck with slip 2000 EWL SPS Marketing Inc. / Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Lubricant 1oz. Bottle

4.5 years and my parts are still lubed and protected.

6 months after applying remoil the oil had evaporated and my choke tubes and shotgun barrel were very rusted.
To each his own but I also use SLIP2000 products. EWG (EXTREME WEAPONS GREASE) AND EWL (EXTREME WEAPONS LUBE) Been putting the EWG grease on my AR bolts for years. (I am just a grease kind of guy!) Anywho I just bought a NIB SS Taurus PT1911 around a month or so ago and started out with the EWG on the rails.....used the EWL everywhere else. Shot a couple hundred rounds like that fine, (I know it is just starting to get broken in) but sorta felt to me like the grease was a little to heavy for my PT1911 slides. So I broke her down and cleaned her up, and took a small amount of the EWG and mixed it with about 4-5 drops of the EWL to thin it down a little. Men, I am tellin you this gun is slicker than owl $hit now. Very noticeable difference in the slide. I will be using this new SLIP concockshon on my other Citadel 1911, Glocks and Berettas now.
I use synthetic gun grease on the slide rails and Eezox on everything else except the polymer frame.

Welcome from Texas, DEPUTYFIFE!
Everything I own gets cleaned with Hoppe's #9, Breakfree CLP for finish cleaning with a light coating on the exterior for rust protection, Tetra Gun Grease on high friction areas like slide rails, and internals. Really became a fan of the Tetra stuff since powder residue just doesn't seem to stick to it at all, and just a drop lubes the slide rails beautifully.
10-4! Like I say, to each their own. Some good buddies won't run grease on their handgun slides...prefer the gunbutter. Whatever floats the boat. May have to give the Tetra grease a try when my Slip2000 EWG runs out. Taurus10, I also use Eezox to wipe down my longguns after a day in the field for rust protection. Saw/read (koolaid) somewhere once that in a controlled test, Eezox was the best for rust protection and Breakfree came in a close second. I have and use both. Eezox is good stuff....TOXIC but good. Stick with the Hoppes #9 for tough cleaning and bores and such. The Hoppes oil is regarded as a good rust preventer as well. Really like the Rustys Rags (silicone) for wiping down my handguns....seems to make them slide in and out of my leather holsters with ease, and makes 'em look better than new. On the flip side.....I could tell about a few products I have purchased and used in the past that SUCKED imo, but I won't go there.
Neither! Froglube it!!! It's all I use. Also great for knives and multitools.

FrogLube | The World's Only Complete Bio Based 'Green' Weapons Care system, Solvent and CLP USDA Approved
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From 1957 to 1990 I used light gun oils like Remoil on my 1911's and other guns.

From 1991 to date I've used Breakfree CLP (Cleaner Lubricant Preservative) on all my guns, including 1911's with good results. :thumb:

Frog Lube. My Granddad used to use motor oil. "Why you wanna spend money on something that you already have?"
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