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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not going to bash, but I want to fix.

Went to shoot my new to me PT1911 today. From what I can tell it's gently used unknown round count but there are no scratches or holster wear. On the first 4 mags I had 1 feed jam per mag. The casing jammed on the feed ramp taking a small chunk out of the casing where it meets the bullet. The ammo is round nose 230gr FMJ from Georgia Arms which I have not had any problems with their other calibers of ammo.

I field striped the gun and inspected the feed ramp. The ramp didn't have any burs but does need to be polished. My barrel doesn't have much of a feed ramp at all just a bit of chamfer really. It also has some sharp edges on the barrel and ramp.


Besides a good ramp polishing. Should I take down some of these sharp edges? Should I do some polishing in the chamber? What other areas could be done while I have it apart.

I have been looking at some other parts and came across the "recoil buffers" it looks as if they go on the guide rod. Is this correct? Is this a add on? Mine doesn't have one of these that I can see.

Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
 

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Are you using a full mag? If so you might try leaving a round or two out until it gets broke in. As for the polishing I'll let someone with more expertise chime in on that.

I had similar problems in the beginning with mine and a detail strip and clean of the extractor channel helped a lot. That and putting a lot of rounds through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Using full mag of 8 not 8+1 and the jams happened after 2-3 shots with both mags.
 

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pull down check bushing and barrell for wear look for burrs and scratches on these as well as as rails also i use 800 grit and remoil to s ooth out burrs and on feed ramp polishing compound on cloth or slow dremil.

if can live without for a month ship i to taurus if that dont fix it

jhp
 

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I am not going to bash, but I want to fix.
Went to shoot my new to me PT1911 today. From what I can tell it's gently used unknown round count but there are no scratches or holster wear. On the first 4 mags I had 1 feed jam per mag. The casing jammed on the feed ramp taking a small chunk out of the casing where it meets the bullet. The ammo is round nose 230gr FMJ from Georgia Arms which I have not had any problems with their other calibers of ammo.
I field striped the gun and inspected the feed ramp. The ramp didn't have any burs but does need to be polished. My barrel doesn't have much of a feed ramp at all just a bit of chamfer really. It also has some sharp edges on the barrel and ramp.
Besides a good ramp polishing. Should I take down some of these sharp edges? Should I do some polishing in the chamber? What other areas could be done while I have it apart.
I have been looking at some other parts and came across the "recoil buffers" it looks as if they go on the guide rod. Is this correct? Is this a add on? Mine doesn't have one of these that I can see.
Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
Heres my take and there are many here more knowledgeable than i on the 1911 platform so they may have more or different advice!
did this happen with multiple magazines or just one?
if you only tried 1 magazine then try some others, if this eliminates the problem then its a mag problem.
did you disassemble the magazine that you tried?
if not take it apart, clean it, inspect it t see if any burrs, welds,etc are causing binding in the magazine VS follower, if so correct!
clean the magazine and put it back together, do not oil or grease, if you must lubricate use a dri lubricant.
as for the barrel/ the barrel is not a ramped barrel so all that you have is that chamfer area, usually the taurus barrels are pretty darned smooth, if you need to polish it then I say use a dremel on slower speed (do not heat the barrel)and some flitz polish, you can also do this by hand using a soft cloth, you should NOT remove any metal from the barrel, chamber or ramp area.
No need to polish the chamber or hood at this point, as the ammo isn't going into the chamber then how do you know there is a problem in that area?-you can address that later if it is a problem.
TO each his own!
I have like 14-15 1911's and own -0- recoil buffers, I think this sums that up in my opinion on them.
IF i found them in one of my guns they would be removed.
easiest things to do first is try another brand ammunition, second try another magazine and see what that does.
NOTE: it wouldn't hurt to throw new 15-16 pound recoil spring in that puppy either, you really have no idea how many rounds has been through it and thats a classic sign of a weak recoil spring.
 

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That's the cool thing about Tauri - the warranty goes with the gun, so even though it's secondhand, it's still warranted. I'd think about sending it to Miami for a vacation. I don't like messing with 1911 ramps, because if you booger them up you scrap the frame. Better to let Taurus do it - if they scrap it, they've got a whole bunch more. :D
 

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That's the cool thing about Tauri - the warranty goes with the gun, so even though it's secondhand, it's still warranted. I'd think about sending it to Miami for a vacation. I don't like messing with 1911 ramps, because if you booger them up you scrap the frame. Better to let Taurus do it - if they scrap it, they've got a whole bunch more. :D
Wise counsel, my friend! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Heres my take and there are many here more knowledgeable than i on the 1911 platform so they may have more or different advice!
did this happen with multiple magazines or just one?
if you only tried 1 magazine then try some others, if this eliminates the problem then its a mag problem.
did you disassemble the magazine that you tried?
if not take it apart, clean it, inspect it t see if any burrs, welds,etc are causing binding in the magazine VS follower, if so correct!
clean the magazine and put it back together, do not oil or grease, if you must lubricate use a dri lubricant.
as for the barrel/ the barrel is not a ramped barrel so all that you have is that chamfer area, usually the taurus barrels are pretty darned smooth, if you need to polish it then I say use a dremel on slower speed (do not heat the barrel)and some flitz polish, you can also do this by hand using a soft cloth, you should NOT remove any metal from the barrel, chamber or ramp area.
No need to polish the chamber or hood at this point, as the ammo isn't going into the chamber then how do you know there is a problem in that area?-you can address that later if it is a problem.
NOTE: it wouldn't hurt to throw new 15-16 pound recoil spring in that puppy either, you really have no idea how many rounds has been through it and thats a classic sign of a weak recoil spring.




Thanks to all for the info.

I have only 2 mags and it happened with both but didn't happen on the last mag. Maybe this was part of that break in? I don't know. I would like to think these mags haven't had ammo stored in them or haven't been used much. I say this because the 8th round is a little tough to get in the mag like it's a new one.

The round seems to get stuck on the sharp edge of the barrel between the ramp of the frame and the short ramp of the barrel. While sending it to Miami sounds like the smart thing to do it's just not in my nature. I assure you this wouldn't be my first feed ramp job just my first on a 1911.

Let talk about the recoil spring for a moment.

I believe the factory spring is 18# correct me if I'm wrong. Wouldn't going to a lighter 15-16# spring produce the same result if mine is a little weak? Wouldn't a 15-16# spring produce more felt recoil? Don't get me wrong I'm not against using a different recoil spring. I know it would help Mrs. JRich with chambering a round and I'm not opposed to making something better.

So please feel free to educate me on recoil springs and any other modifications on the 1911.
 

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I am not going to bash, but I want to fix.

Went to shoot my new to me PT1911 today. From what I can tell it's gently used unknown round count but there are no scratches or holster wear. On the first 4 mags I had 1 feed jam per mag. The casing jammed on the feed ramp taking a small chunk out of the casing where it meets the bullet. The ammo is round nose 230gr FMJ from Georgia Arms which I have not had any problems with their other calibers of ammo.

I field striped the gun and inspected the feed ramp. The ramp didn't have any burs but does need to be polished. My barrel doesn't have much of a feed ramp at all just a bit of chamfer really. It also has some sharp edges on the barrel and ramp.


Besides a good ramp polishing. Should I take down some of these sharp edges? Should I do some polishing in the chamber? What other areas could be done while I have it apart.

I have been looking at some other parts and came across the "recoil buffers" it looks as if they go on the guide rod. Is this correct? Is this a add on? Mine doesn't have one of these that I can see.

Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
Welcome aboard Rich, I think you've made a good choice for your first 1911, I know there is a web site that can tell you what year your PT1911 was made, kinda gives you an idea how much wear it can have. Now to try an figure out what is causing your casing to be damaged, I have seen in the past where a barrel is sticking out past the frames feed ramp instead of being set back 1/32"from the edge of the feed ramp (see attached) as it should.
When the round is being chambered it diflects of the feed ramp and into the chambers hood area where it changes its trajectory from virtical to horizontal, if the barel is sticking out even a little past the feed ramp the casing will get caught on it while being chambered and in many cases will be damaged as you have discribed yours are doing, if after lookin at the illustration you find that your barrel is sticking out past the feed ramp I suggest that you send it back to Taurus for them to re-fit a new barrel with the proper set back.
The edge on top of the feed ramp and the barrel bed should always be left as sharpe as posible and the angle of the feed ramp should not be changed to assure a reliable feeding cycle, some folks do not understand that, and while polishing their feed ramps with a Dremel get carried away and will round off the top edge of the feed ramp or polish so much as to change the angle of the feed ramp.
In my oppinion the feed ramp only needs to be smothed down of any ruff perpendicular machine marks, by wraping a piece of plumbers emery cloth around you finger you can work it up and down the feed ramp(in the direction the catridge travels) until all the ruff marks are smooth, notice how I said smoothed, not completely removed, because in some cases the machining marks are so deep that attempting to completely remove them might change the angle of the feed ramp, and by then if tinkering fever has set in :) I would lightly shine polish with a Dremel.
As far as your barrel not having much of a ramp but only a chamfered angle, the 1911 barrel is only relieved around the mouth of the barrel to prevent the shoulders of the cartridge from impacting the edge of the barrel (see attached) so as long as your barrel has been throated, which the PT1911 is! it should be fine.
The only part of the barrel chamber I would polish is the very top of the barrel hood (where the cartridge deflects off of) to insure positive feeding, do not polish the inside of the chamber unless the cartridges are getting stuck in the chamber, hope you injoy your new 1911



shoot safe, shoot straight, and have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info and pics.

I'll take it down and check that fitment of the barrel to ramp. I will say that that mine is nowhere near as smooth as yours in the last pic especially at the 10 and 2 position where the throating ends. Also at the 6 oclock position my barrel is way sharper looking nearly sharp enough to cut yourself.

Thanks
 

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Every pistol(semi auto) that I own gets what I call a fluff and buff before they go to the range. A fluff and buff consists of using 1000 and or 1600 grit paper to remove any small burs and lightly polish the ramp and slide areas. It eliminates a lot of second guessing. I use a wooden rod wrapped with 1600 on the ramp and I do it lightly.
 

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NOTE: it wouldn't hurt to throw new 15-16 pound recoil spring in that puppy either, you really have no idea how many rounds has been through it and thats a classic sign of a weak recoil spring.
In a weapon with an unknown round count this would be the first thing I would try!
 

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Wise counsel, my friend! :thumb:
If it were my gun, before taking any abrasives to it, I'd be sending it on a Florida vacation to meet its maker. Taurus sees any impromptu gunsmithing, I doubt they'd even touch it.
 
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I say ditch the shock buffer (1911's don't need it if in good working order) and get a new recoil spring (16 lb) from Wolff.

Also 1911's likes to run wet for optimum reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok so I have stripped the gun down and here is what I have found. The barrel meets the feed ramp as it should, but there was a ding in the 5:30 position of the barrel on the sharp edge where it meets the ramp. I also found that on the feed ramp in the frame there were deep horizontal scratches to the left and right of the center. I'm not sure if this is from the factory tooling marks or if someone has been in it with a hard abrasive wheel. So I got the ramp and throat smoothed out and polished.


I took measurements of the barrel and bushing. I found that the Barrel is .577 at the muzzle and .572 the rest of the way down. The barrel bushing is stepped inside and measures .586 at the muzzle and .618 on the back end. Is this normal or should I invest in a new bushing.

I am also having a hard time reassembling the slide to the frame. I think it maybe the guide rod is getting jammed up or twisting. Whatever it is I don't like it I'm afraid it's going to break something or gull something up.
 

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Ok so I have stripped the gun down and here is what I have found. The barrel meets the feed ramp as it should, but there was a ding in the 5:30 position of the barrel on the sharp edge where it meets the ramp. I also found that on the feed ramp in the frame there were deep horizontal scratches to the left and right of the center. I'm not sure if this is from the factory tooling marks or if someone has been in it with a hard abrasive wheel. So I got the ramp and throat smoothed out and polished.


I took measurements of the barrel and bushing. I found that the Barrel is .577 at the muzzle and .572 the rest of the way down. The barrel bushing is stepped inside and measures .586 at the muzzle and .618 on the back end. Is this normal or should I invest in a new bushing.

I am also having a hard time reassembling the slide to the frame. I think it maybe the guide rod is getting jammed up or twisting. Whatever it is I don't like it I'm afraid it's going to break something or gull something up.
Id also add a new recoil spring, I have had similar issues when they begin to wear out.

As to reassembly, are all the lawyer parts present? The reason I ask is sometimes the lever that contacts the plunger gets caught funny when I'm reassembling my PT 1911.

As to the measurements I have no clue but I am sure some of the others will!

I hope the work you've done will fix her! If she shoots half as good as mine you will be pleased! Let us know how she shoots!
 
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