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I read a lot about various guns and their trigger “quality.” I see terms like gritty, audible reset, clean break, stacking, etc. and although I can imagine what is being described I have a hard time relating those things to my guns and observations.
I have to assume it’s my lack of experience, although I have been shooting 60+ years with various types of guns. My signature below shows the guns I have, and the ONLY complaint I have is that the DA pull on my FNX-9 is so long it feels like it will never fire; but it does. Other than that, I’m very happy with the triggers on all my guns. I don’t detect any of the problems I see described so often.
Am I just incredibly lucky or incredibly naïve? How can I get better educated on the subtleties of triggers?
 

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Shoot more.


I hear those descriptions tossed about and pretty much know what they mean. If you’ve shot Sigs you’ve probably experienced the most audible and tactile trigger resets you are gonna feel. My original LCP trigger is like your FNX - feels like it will never break. The LCP II is almost a SA feel to it and breaks quick!

Glocks triggers all feel the same to me but I’m used to them.
My SP101 snubbie in 357 feels a little gritty in DA but OK in SA. My old Security Six in 357 has a smooth as hot butter trigger - very comfortable for shooting DA all day! Bought it used and obvious it has had a trigger job.

But, to tell the truth, I don’t ever plan to change triggers because my life don’t depend on it every day and I don’t shoot competitively.
 

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well certainly I am not a super star competition trigger fixer upper but!
I have about I would guess some 23-24-25 handguns, from lowly brands like taurus, ATI, Citadel up to Colt combat elite, Tanfoglio Elite match, CZ shadow -2 so I cover a pretty large field of prices and out of box quality.
now personally I can certainly tell the difference in the upper tier priced weapons and the lower tier, that's in both poundage, creep, friction, break, reset etc.
now some of the lower tier weapons have needed assistance from me to improve trigger feel, some have came out of the box well enough that I did not feel they needed improvement, I can pretty much shoot anything that I own well enough to protect myself out to at least 15-18 yards , many even farther than that.
It all depends on what one is willing to accept , want or need, the better the shooter the better/ more experienced the better they can handle a poor trigger.
but one must also understand the intent of purchasing a gun, competition, carry, home /car defense etc.
the most accurate weapons that I have are
Elite Match Tanfoglio--over all most accurate--followed closely by the CZ Shadow -2
Springfield Armory range officer --most accurate 1911--followed closely by the Dan Wesson pointe man
most accurate compact--CZ P-01
most accurate sub compact--Sig Sauer P 365
of course this is in my hands, with my eyes, my shooting style all this can change from person to person.
 
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and I would mention that IF one does not untilize the trigger reset then its not a factor, and strangely enough many do not or even know what that terminology means.
the main thing that I hate about the Taurus TCP ( and some of their other small semi) is the total lack of a trigger reset or a dead trigger.
so as you can tell I am a fan of the trigger reset.
 

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I still consider myself to be a relative newbie when it comes to firearms having owned any for just 7-8 years. So I'm probably not sophisticated enough to feel all the nicey nice stuff about triggers. I will say I understand most of the terminology you mention. I will say this about interwebs gurus, who the hell pulls a trigger that slowly!

The only trigger, from my guns, that is less than desirable is my Beretta CX4 pistol caliber carbine. On the other hand my Beretta PX4 pistols have very nice triggers, including the first DA pull. Kind of long but smooth and not terribly heavy. The SA pull is very nice, reset is fairly short but not all that loud. My Taurus PT1911s have a fairly typical 1911 trigger.

My ARs have mil-spec triggers that are pretty decent. I did do a little fluff and buff on them and they work quite well for me. Some Giesellie/Timney guy might throw up using my mil-spec triggers.

Bottom line, if it works for you, run it!
 

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and I would mention that IF one does not untilize the trigger reset then its not a factor, and strangely enough many do not or even know what that terminology means.
the main thing that I hate about the Taurus TCP ( and some of their other small semi) is the total lack of a trigger reset or a dead trigger.
so as you can tell I am a fan of the trigger reset.
It’s (Trigger reset) one of the first things I learned to look for and control when I got into handguns. I never carried my original LCP because it was hard to shoot - much less try to figure out a reset. So, I do pay attention to triggers in general but don’t get too much into them. I ALMOST bought a Sig 1911 in 10mm today - was a great price - but held off.
 
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Ruger makes an awfully nice SR1911 Target model in 10 MM.
My dope deal--ahh gun shop is a Sig direct and he has a a bunch of super nice (expensive) sigs in stock right now.
I fondled a few of them.
 
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I wanted a Ruger 10mm when they were first announced but the Sig I mention is priced about $100 less than a Ruger starts at.
 
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Don't know about the FNX?.....but on that Tristar S-120....Cajun Gun Works has several kits for the CZ'z and Canik/Tristar da/sa guns.
I put one of their mainsprings in my C-100 and it made a good trigger much better. I believe the original spring was 15 or 16 #, and I dropped down to 12 or 13#. Made all the difference in the world. I carry mine on what some call "half-cock" - it reduces that trigger travel a lot in DA.
 

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Shoot more.


I hear those descriptions tossed about and pretty much know what they mean. If you’ve shot Sigs you’ve probably experienced the most audible and tactile trigger resets you are gonna feel. My original LCP trigger is like your FNX - feels like it will never break. The LCP II is almost a SA feel to it and breaks quick!

Glocks triggers all feel the same to me but I’m used to them.
My SP101 snubbie in 357 feels a little gritty in DA but OK in SA. My old Security Six in 357 has a smooth as hot butter trigger - very comfortable for shooting DA all day! Bought it used and obvious it has had a trigger job.

But, to tell the truth, I don’t ever plan to change triggers because my life don’t depend on it every day and I don’t shoot competitively.
I agree, shoot more... with someone who knows the difference. Have them point out the different facets of triggers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't know about the FNX?.....but on that Tristar S-120....Cajun Gun Works has several kits for the CZ'z and Canik/Tristar da/sa guns.
I put one of their mainsprings in my C-100 and it made a good trigger much better. I believe the original spring was 15 or 16 #, and I dropped down to 12 or 13#. Made all the difference in the world. I carry mine on what some call "half-cock" - it reduces that trigger travel a lot in DA.
Interestingly, it's the CGW trigger kits that got me started on this topic. I would love to take the TriStar from really good to great. Then I realized I'm not sure I know the difference. I dry fire that gun a lot, and I don't find any grittiness, stacking, or any of the other negative things I read about. And although I could probably detect a lighter pull, I don't find the current one onerous. I'm probably just fishing for justification to upgrade that trigger.:)

It's my understanding that there aren't a lot of (any?) trigger options for the FNX.
 

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Triggers aren't that hard to understand. How they feel, how much slack they have before they feel firmer to fire, etc. Reset is knowing how much to release the trigger before it catches again to be able to fire. Knowing the difference is something you already have. If you take 2 firearms, same make and model and one has a great trigger job and the other is rough from the factory, you will feel the difference. I point out the extremes when people ask between my Mosin and my PT1911. The Taurus has a 4.5 lb trigger that breaks like glass, has minimal take up and resets in a very short distance. The Mosin? Well it almost feels like dragging tow chain across a gravel driveway in miniature. It was set at around 9,042 lbs for the length of a football field. I think I got it down to under 50 lbs at a length of a standard parking space. The more familiar with a trigger of a firearm, the better you will be able to shoot it. You'll know about where it breaks, how much pressure to apply and how far to release to have it reset. When I have others fire any of my firearms I always have them start with the 1911 and move towards the heavier triggers. I've tried it the other way around and almost always double tap the first 2 rounds from the 1911.
 
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I really didn't start riding reset's and running fast strings on target until I tried some of the new wonder trigger guns. You have to experience these new class of triggers to understand the difference. However does it really make a difference in EDC or enjoyment? Nope. Some to consider:
CZP10 c,s,f
PPQ m1 or m2
Canik SA's - TP9SA, TP9SF, tp9sfx
Sig P320
Glock Gen 5 and above

Any SA pistol like 1911's etc..
 

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I never really heard much about reset until the Glocks became so popular. One area where I might be a bit of a trigger snob is overtravel. Excessive follow-thru can deter accuracy. I really don't care to lighten hammer springs, but I do believe that higher quality springs like those from Wolffe can improve things.

One of the things that first attracted me to the Canik TP9sa was the constant praise of the trigger quality. Then I found that Canik gave them an overtravel stop integral on the back of the trigger. That makes reset about as short as it can be.

For precision shooting and hunting, if a revolver shows the inherent accuracy, I've found that a trigger stop can enhance accuracy. Had some help in learning that after buying a Dan Wesson M15 V-8 in early 1981.;)
 
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I have spring reduction, longer firing pins and firing pin springs in all my CZ, they come with I believe a 16 pound mainspring, the Cajun kit comes wiht a 11 and 13 pound spring.
I use the 13 pound as they are basically carry pistols and this spring weight has proven 100% reliable with all ammo.
the Cz Shaowow -2 came out of the factory with all the goodies including the super great short trigger and reset and it shoots like a dream.
the tanfoglio elite match is first a single action and has a fully adjustable tigger for over travel, reset and break point,
incredible triggers in a 758-800 dollar weapon.
Hence with the hand building they are my most accurate pistols.
 
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