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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got a chance to get my hands around another 24/7 Pro .45 (theoretically the same as mine) in Sportsman's Warehouse. Its trigger has a __MUCH__ smoother and easier pull than mine. So much for user error so quickly assumed by some.
 

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Quick assumptions are an easy way out... wished I could say I was never guilty of that a time or two in my life. As i said in a PM to you, your problem is very real and is most likely related to your firing assembly (firing pin group). Could be dirty, gunky, burr, out of spec part or some form of debris in there. Clean well, dissemble if your comfortable with doing that and hope for the best. Last resort is flexing that life time warranty...

Wished I could be more help.
 

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Interesting.Since we cannot see your pistol and inspect it this leaves us with only being able to take SWAGs( Scientific Wild A**ed guesses) as to why things weren't working and were trying to help in good faith. Staff and members did that.

Since there was no way to varify if there were burrs or mechanical problems we went with what we knew.
There is a host of reasons why things wouldn't work the way they were supposed to.

This had not so much to do with the human error as it had to do with a panopoly of possibilities.

People being part of the equation as to why things are not working as advertised has to be considered. This is not a slam of the person but a personal observation.
As DRAEGER said, the trigger group is the most likely candidate and needs to be looked at.
No one staff or member is going to be able to diagnose the problem completely though we try.

We can offer suggestions. Since this seems to be mechanical, then the problem can be dealt with. One still has to be able to see the parts and inspect closely to know what is going on.

Suggestions were made in good faith based and good will on not knowing the whole picture.Still is.
Why the problem developed or how was anyone's guess. So we tried to seperate the human possiblities from the mechanical ones.

This is a step by step process of elimination as to the why. So even if there were assumptions, there was very little in the way of physical evidence that we could see to come to the definete answer you seek or sought.

You can chose to either take these as made in good faith and goodwill or take offense.

But none was meant or given.

If the trigger group has a decernible problem, then Taurus or a competent gunsmith should look the pistol over and do what is necessary to get the gun back up and running.

Other than that life goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DRAEGER said:
As i said in a PM to you, your problem is very real and is most likely related to your firing assembly (firing pin group). Could be dirty, gunky, burr, out of spec part or some form of debris in there. Clean well, dissemble if your comfortable with doing that and hope for the best.
You're so right. Pushing the firing pin back manually reveals the roughness at the same point as the trigger roughness - two places near the end of the pull.

Upon opening the assembly I found the major diameter of the pin to have several pieces of green paint from the spring on it. Actually I don't see how the rod inside the spring could be smooth, being plastic and flexible.

Question. Should the forward end of the major pin diameter be swaged? It shows .006 of an inch larger than the main portion for about 1/16 inch of its length.

Also, the major diameter shows no attempt to polish it beyond about a 400 grit, and almost half its length (at the rear) shows what appears to be a fine stone dremel attack about .006 deep and 1/8 inch wide.

Should I try to remove the swage? That seems tricky to do without damaging the part that's already "right." At least without a very accurate lathe.

Should I try to polish the major diameter with a super-fine grit?
 

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This is one of those touchy points that could work itself out after break-in period. How long is a break-in period... tough call. As for removing any material from anything, if it looks tricky it might be best not to mess with it unless you have proper tools, training and most importantly... spare parts on hand. If you alter it or attempt to alter it, would it void a warranty in the event of you having to send it in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DRAEGER said:
This is one of those touchy points that could work itself out after break-in period. How long is a break-in period... tough call. As for removing any material from anything, if it looks tricky it might be best not to mess with it unless you have proper tools, training and most importantly... spare parts on hand. If you alter it or attempt to alter it, would it void a warranty in the event of you having to send it in?
Thanks
 

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JimL said:
You're so right.  Pushing the firing pin back manually reveals the roughness at the same point as the trigger roughness - two places near the end of the pull.

Upon opening the assembly I found the major diameter of the pin to have several pieces of green paint from the spring on it.  Actually I don't see how the rod inside the spring could be smooth, being plastic and flexible.

Question.  Should the forward end of the major pin diameter be swaged?  It shows .006 of an inch larger than the main portion for about 1/16 inch of its length.

Also, the major diameter shows no attempt to polish it beyond about a 400 grit, and almost half its length (at the rear) shows what appears to be a fine stone dremel attack about .006 deep and 1/8 inch wide.

Should I try to remove the swage?  That seems tricky to do without damaging the part that's already "right."  At least without a very accurate lathe.

Should I try to polish the major diameter with a super-fine grit?
I am interested in the outcome of how you finally smooth your trigger.  My DAO first generation 9mm Millenium has what is possibly the same roughness when the firing pin is pushed in, near the end of travel.  I have stripped the slide for the third time trying to rid the pistol of this rough area.  I have reduced myself to polishing everything I can reach with the dremel (contact areas).  I don't currently have a tool to polish deep in the firing pin chamber, though I looked through Home Depot today to see if they had anything [with no luck].  I have used a flashlight to peer into the firing pin chamber, it seems where the minor and major bore intersect, there are burrs.  I hope to find something to remove them, that will not damage the rest of the firing pin chamber/tunnel.  Another thought, which I concluded today, is that this may be caused by the alley (please pardon my lack of correct terminology) being rough.  What I call the alley is the slot along the firing pin chamber that the thingy sticking up from the firing pin rides in (hopefully you understand what I am trying to say).  I have been moving the firing pin through its range of motion with my fingers and all springs removed.  I will also note that the firing pin (now polished) didn't have any serrations or marks that appeared to be caused by the burrs where the bore changes diameter.  The firing pin is polished now.

The pistol shoots okay, it is held back by the rough trigger (the frame part of the trigger is quite smooth.  The slide is titanium, which may or may not compound the issue.)  I know this will be my one of my favorite pistols if I can get all this smoothed out.  I have much more expensive pistols, and a couple of less expensive pistols....but this will be my favorite if I can solve the delimma of this rough area.  I really think this little pistol can be so much more than it is today. 
 
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