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I've had my PT1911 for a few months now and absolutely love it. With that being said, i do not like locks on my guns. I am looking into replacing the hammer and possibly the trigger. (Hammer for function then looks, and trigger mostly for looks.) I love my trigger pull as it is and am afraid to touch it. When I picked it up at the LGS, I thought that it had a trigger job already done. It pulls consistently at about 2 1/2 lbs or so, no creep, no overtravel. I realize that all these parts work together to produce that nice pull, but am i ok as long as i keep the sear/ disconector in place? Thanks.
 

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Welcome aboard, and greetings from Tx.

I'm no 1911 guru, but from my limited understanding, you seem to have the main concept correct ie. the other parts contribute to the overall feel of the trigger. I'm sure one of the many 1911 guys will be along soon to set us both straight, especially olfarhors. :D

I have the PT1911-SS, so please share your thoughts on changing the hammer for 'function'. I've thought about changing some parts (SS to black for contrast), but don't know how that would effect the function. Thanks for sharing, and good luck with that.
 

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I have two of the PT1911s and wouldn't change anything on them. The pistol is better and more accurate than I am.
 

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Welcome from East Texas. 2.5 lb consistency and no creep. "If it ain't broke......." and I don't think that is broke!
 

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I am a strong believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I'd leave it alone...
I agree...why mess with perfection? :D

Oh, by the way, welcome to TaurusArmed.net, the handgun forum with the friendliest and most knowledgeable crowd of handgunners that I've found!
 

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Hello and welcome from the Rust Belt USA....

Ya just can't get any better than that, don't mess with it....

1.1 USA.gif
 

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That's a tough call. I ditched the lock hammer on mine some time ago, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it...except in your case :D

It would be a shame to change that out just to find that it ruined the pull you like so much. I'd say keep it as is, unless you can find a gunsmith that's willing to do what you want done, and will keep redoing it (without charging you) to mess with it until you get the trigger back the way you want it.

That said, it's possible that it wouldn't change your pull. I can't speak to that, as my sear got changed out with the hammer (and the extractor...and the guide rod...and some springs).

Anyway, here's what it looks like with an Ed Brown:
 

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i would not change anything soungs like you have a custom trigger job already. that being said if you do want to change the trigger realize the entire frame has to be stripped to change the trigger. some aftermarket triggers are adjustable for creep and overtravel, they have tabs on the trigger bow towards the end where the trigger is located. to adjust the tabs need to be bent after trigger is installed to get the feel you want. bent to much and they can break off. drop in triggers don't uasally have the adjustment tabs. as far as the hammer, when installing a new hammer the hammer hooks will need some stoning. this cannot be done freehand. you need a jig to hold the hammer and a feeler gauge so you can stone(with arkansas hard stone) the hooks square and to the right hieght(18-22 thousands depending on gunsmith and feel). also before reassembling the frame any parts that make contact with each other need to be stoned, just to knock off the high spots,not the entire surface.this includes top of your springs. the springs may also need to be adjusted. if you have the right tools and the ability you can do it yourself,if not take it to a gunsmith.
 

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I'm with the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" crowd.

If you don't like the lock, just don't use it. It is nice to have, even if you never use it in my opinion.

As to the trigger pull, others are right, its a system that works together. If you have the tools and want to play with it, that is one great thing about the 1911 design, it lends itself to tinkering. That being said, if you still want to change it and don't have much experience doing that level of work on a 1911, I'd find a good smith. Also look into what that would do to your warranty, that might be somehting to consider.

Either way, good luck and enjoy the PT 1911!
 

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I've had my PT1911 for a few months now and absolutely love it. With that being said, i do not like locks on my guns. I am looking into replacing the hammer and possibly the trigger. (Hammer for function then looks, and trigger mostly for looks.) I love my trigger pull as it is and am afraid to touch it. When I picked it up at the LGS, I thought that it had a trigger job already done. It pulls consistently at about 2 1/2 lbs or so, no creep, no overtravel. I realize that all these parts work together to produce that nice pull, but am i ok as long as i keep the sear/ disconector in place? Thanks.
I would first off question weather you have measured the trigger pull? 2.5# is pretty close to the minimum you can achieve with a 1911 and can usually only be done with very light weight fire control parts and custom tuning. Then I would perform a safety check
paying close attention to a sear check. (make sure the hammer does not follow when dropping slide on a empty chamber)

If it passes those checks then I would say you have a great target trigger on your 1911 but if I carried or used it for self defense I would want it a pound or 2 higher. Replacing the hammer will almost certainly affect the trigger pull (creep and weight) but a properly installed trigger shoe will make no real difference as it only presses on the sear to release the hammer. Basically if the trigger shoe does not bind or rub it will not affect trigger pull weight or creep but they are usually made oversize and must be fitted. (not hard to do but requires full dis-assembly of the gun)

My PT1911 came with a pretty crisp 5# trigger, since it is my project gun I worked on the factory parts and got it down to 3.5# and removed most of the creep. Problem was the parts are just not hard enough to get the hammer hooks short enough to remove all creep and within a couple thousand rounds the hooks were starting to round off. I then installed a Cylinder & Slide Ultra light speed II trigger pull set (comes with matching springs), Greider short trigger (I have small hands), Wilson pin set, Titanium hammer strut, Titanium mainspring plunger and removed series 80 safety parts. With minor fitting I now have a 3# trigger pull, with no creep, plus the light weight of these parts cuts lock time down by more than half. The whole point in telling you all this is that it takes a lot to get a 1911 trigger pull very light, safe and durable.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, that helps alot, I think i just got a little vain there for a minute. Head's clear now...
It's about what the target looks like, not the gun.
 

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fired about 300 rounds through my PT 1911 duotone, and do not like the trigger pull as i get a nasty blister after about 100 rounds. Anyone else have this issue? Looking into getting a trigger job done to it. Open to any suggestions/insight.
 

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I've had my PT1911 for a few months now and absolutely love it. With that being said, i do not like locks on my guns. I am looking into replacing the hammer and possibly the trigger. (Hammer for function then looks, and trigger mostly for looks.) I love my trigger pull as it is and am afraid to touch it. When I picked it up at the LGS, I thought that it had a trigger job already done. It pulls consistently at about 2 1/2 lbs or so, no creep, no overtravel. I realize that all these parts work together to produce that nice pull, but am i ok as long as i keep the sear/ disconector in place? Thanks.
I'm also of the opinion that if it's good don't mess with it. My PT1911AL has over 10,000 rounds through it and it's never malfunctioned. The trigger was excellent right out of the box and still is. The lock has never interfered with the operation of the pistol. In fact, I tend to forget it even has a lock as I never use it. If you really do want to change out your hammer and trigger I'd suggest that you take it to a very good, reputable 1911 gunsmith and pay them to do the conversion, and tell them you want the same trigger pull and feel you currently have. It's a doable modification if you want to spend the money. If it were me, I'd spend the money on ammo and head to the range instead!
 

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My PT1911 SS came out of the box with a 3 lb. trigger pull. Very smooth, no creep or overtravel, feels like a custom trigger job but the gun has never been touched. I'll leave well enough alone.
 

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My 1911 is perfect, so I'm not gonna touch nuthin' on it

So, I suggest that if you don't like the lock, cover it with paint and go on.
 

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I'm with Stallard, 2.5 # is very light in a stock pistol, I would think the sear spring has been bent. I would replace it there under $10 bucks
 

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fired about 300 rounds through my PT 1911 duotone, and do not like the trigger pull as i get a nasty blister after about 100 rounds. Anyone else have this issue? Looking into getting a trigger job done to it. Open to any suggestions/insight.
HMM?? NO not any problems with any of my Taurus 1911's.
Suggestions? get a good 1911 gunsmith to do a trigger job, or show up at the house here for a bit of yard work and we can toughen up them fingers in about a week!-LOL
all mt Pt1911's run in the just under to just over 4 pound trigger pulls and are crisp.
 

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I'm with Stallard, 2.5 # is very light in a stock pistol, I would think the sear spring has been bent. I would replace it there under $10 bucks
Agreed !! when you start reaching that 3 1/2 pound mark things begin to get scary for me, especially in a carry weapon or with a novice shooter.
More than one new 1911 shooter has squeezed off a double tap with my Pt1911 38 super and its got a really smooth3 1/2- 3 3/4 pound trigger.
Kind of funny to watch their face though, they generally don't know what to do!!-LOL
Not sure to smile , try to run out of the range or what!
 
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