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When I pull the trigger it has a little bump spot just before it gets to the point when it gets harder to pull and fires. It seems to be the safety on the trigger causing the problem because if I hold it down really hard the bump is gone. Could something be filed down to fix it?
 

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Yes, there needs to be more information and maybe pictures if you can on what the problem might be if any at all.
If you want help or assistance more info is going to be needed.
 

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Welcome to taurusarmed.net from an Old Soldier in Olympia, WA; in the Great Pacific Northwest - "Taurus® Spoken Here! Hooaaahhhh!!!!!
 

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I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” or “hitch” as I pulled the trigger backin single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. Back then I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! That's when I realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111 G2.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's are inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to rub against something when it does retract, resulting in a "click".


Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36 said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic. So here's what I did. I tied the trigger safety-blade down on the trigger with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times, and then let it sit for a week with the zip-tie still on. When I finally took off the zip-tie, the "click" was gone completely. I thought the click might come back after a few weeks, but it's been a couple years now and the trigger still works fine.

In March 2019 I got a new G2C, and I wondered if Taurus had fixed their trigger “click/hitch” problem. Nope, it's still there. I did my zip-tie/hair dryer trick, and now my G2C works great too!

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens, all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.

Try my zip-tie/hair-dryer trick, and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” or “hitch” as I pulled the trigger backin single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. Back then I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! That's when I realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111 G2.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's are inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to rub against something when it does retract, resulting in a "click".


Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36 said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic. So here's what I did. I tied the trigger safety-blade down on the trigger with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times, and then let it sit for a week with the zip-tie still on. When I finally took off the zip-tie, the "click" was gone completely. I thought the click might come back after a few weeks, but it's been a couple years now and the trigger still works fine.

In March 2019 I got a new G2C, and I wondered if Taurus had fixed their trigger “click/hitch” problem. Nope, it's still there. I did my zip-tie/hair dryer trick, and now my G2C works great too!

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens, all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.

Try my zip-tie/hair-dryer trick, and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
Good Luck!
Not sure I understand how this could work?
 

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When I pull the trigger it has a little bump spot just before it gets to the point when it gets harder to pull and fires. It seems to be the safety on the trigger causing the problem because if I hold it down really hard the bump is gone. Could something be filed down to fix it?

HMM? can't help with the inner workings of a taurus semi auto(other than the 1911) but I assume that you DO NOT use a trigger reset and you allow the trigger to move all the way forward?
Honestly I can't say any of my taurus have a trigger to brag/talk about out of the box except for a couple of my PT1911.
 

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HMM? can't help with the inner workings of a taurus semi auto(other than the 1911) but I assume that you DO NOT use a trigger reset and you allow the trigger to move all the way forward?
Honestly I can't say any of my taurus have a trigger to brag/talk about out of the box except for a couple of my PT1911.
The short reset on the OEM trigger is one of the selling points IMO...it's that notchy feeling that drove me crazy. Using a wire twist tie to compress the trigger blade and applying the heat gun to both sides provided the relief that I needed. Might need a few applications.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Oklahoma.
 

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The short reset on the OEM trigger is one of the selling points IMO...it's that notchy feeling that drove me crazy. Using a wire twist tie to compress the trigger blade and applying the heat gun to both sides provided the relief that I needed. Might need a few applications.
You should sent this tip to the " hammer mechanics" at Taurus. Tell them to they should issue a "DYSON HAIR DRYER " & a package of wire ties to each repair station. Maybe the quality of the DYSON product will rub off. LOL
 

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Not sure I understand how this could work?
Offhand, I'd guess the heating cycles let the spring sink just a little into the plastic, changing the effective spring strength and/or point of engagement.
 
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