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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for my 1st post to be a complaint, but so it goes. I've avoided Taurus in the past due to their reputation, but have recently read many, many very positive reports on the PT111G2 and also how Taurus has turned their customer service around in the last few years. On the strength of that, last Wednesday I paid for a new PT111G2 with black polymer and brushed steel slide. Very nice looking gun and it fits my hand very well. Paperwork cleared with state Friday and I brought it home. Yesterday I took it to the range and immediately came up with an odd problem that I've never seen.

Sooo....just now I went onto this forum and the 1st several posts I've read talk about months of turnaround time for repairs and oddball replacements for returned pistols. I feel a little bit sick at this point; thought they'd cleaned up their act.

My problem - Aim and pull the trigger (I was shooting Winchester 115 grain JHP) and it fired and cycled normally. Pull the trigger for a followup shot and sometimes it would fire and sometimes it would....."click ??" Seemed like it would start to engage, then the mechanism would slip and I'd get a gritty "sliding" sensation in trigger and it'd give a soft click at end of trigger travel. Release the trigger and it resets normally for another try. Experimenting, I found that sometimes I could pull (OK, OK, squeeze) the trigger several times and it'd suddenly engage, fire as normal, cycle a new round and start the procedure all over. Eject and feed are normal, no problem. This happens every 2nd or 3rd shot.

Dry firing at home later gave the same results.

Then I found that when it slipped, a solid thump to the back of the slide with heel of left hand would shake something up - or, more likely, seat something - it would connect and it'd fire. I've never seen anything like this and I've been shooting for many, many years with a great variety of firearms.

Fussing with it a bit, seems to me that possibly it isn't quite going fully into battery - maybe a metal burr on the slide or rails or something not quite letting it seat fully. I made my living as a restaurant equipment service/refrigeration tech for many years, have a very complete workshop and am skilled at mechanical problem solving and proper use of tools.

If this is likely a problem with a burr or somesuch, after reading the horror stories about Taurus, I'd rather clean up components myself, rather than wait many months to get a brand new pistol back. No, I won't go into actual gunsmithing - don't want warranty issues - but cleanup/polishing of components is easy.

I plan on calling Taurus tomorrow, Monday, but after reading several posts on this forum I don't hold much hope for satisfaction, if someone ever even picks up the phone on their end.

Any thoughts at all ?? Y'all are listening to a very unhappy new owner here.
 

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Sorry to hear of your problem. Just curious where you have read all the positive revues and how they turned CS around? Must have been very old info. Would start with the recoil assembly to make sure it is seated properly. Check your extractor for any burrs . Most likely your firing pin channel needs cleaning. Clean out your firing pin channel extremely well and do not lube it when reassembling. Might also be one of the bad triggers . Good luck and hopping you do not have to send to Taurus . It will be a nightmare and several week wait.
 

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Did you give it a THOROUGH cleaning before taking it to the range?

Lot's of gunk in these as they come out of the factory.

All the Best,
D. White
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I subscribe to the Glock Talk forum and several times saw mention with good comments about the G2. Then googled it and there are quite a few YouTubes, etc. Hickok 45 has a good one on the G2 and spoke very favorably of it and there are several others. My LCP is a little puny and the Glock 29 10mm is too bulky and heavy for CC, so a medium sized 9 seemed like a good choice. My budget is limited and the price was a great bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nooo.....I figured it had been test fired at the factory, so just pulled the slide and did a cursory once over and added a couple of drops of oil to slide, etc., then wiped excess off. Now I'll pull it back apart and do as you say.

Strange feeling. Feels like the trigger is sliding alongside the striker instead of engaging it.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started a reply and it disappeared ???

I pulled the slide off again and tried to see what was going on. I don't know the terminology yet, so please bear with me. The striker assembly is in the slide, part of the red plastic assembly and aside from a bit of grittiness seems to function properly. The double slide return spring is loose in the mounts....no pre-tension on them. Odd, but not the current problem.

Pulling the trigger with slide off moves the center mounted tab that apparently connects with the striker and it sometimes catches on something down in the mess at back of the grip. Sometimes moves smoothly. When it catches, it catches solidly and it takes quite a pull to pop it loose. In any case, pulling trigger while trying to hold that tab shows me that it's solidly connected.

Fast forward - while messing with it with slide removed and trying to describe what I was seeing as I went, the whole thing seemed to smooth out a bit and "caught" less frequently. I put the slide back on and racked it. 1st pull is single action, right ?? Trigger goes far back before engaging, then a light pull fires it. 2nd pull (double action ??) has resistance all the way back before firing. A little gritty but not too bad.

That all seems normal, but on single action pulls, as the trigger is moved back, about ½ way there's a slight catch - just a sort of rough spot that is easily passed, then it fires normally. Hmmm....if I hold trigger to left side as I pull on single action, the catching or resistance is more obvious, but it won't do it on double action. While typing this, I've racked the action more than a dozen times and dry fired probably 20 or 30 and it's feeling better all the time. I only fired 30 rounds at range yesterday and it didn't change.

I'll bet you were right - some gunk in the mechanism was keeping it from catching the striker properly. Now I can sit here pulling double action repeatedly and it seems fine. Single action is also better, but still got that brief binding feeling as the trigger moves past the half way point. I don't much like that.

There are enuf little bits, pieces and springs in the mechanism at rear of grip that I don't think I want to tangle with it without a good set of instructions. Can you recommend a link, esp. to a YouTube ?? Thanks. I'll keep you posted.
 

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1st Welcome to the forum from Northern Oklahoma.

2nd If your still thinking about calling Taurus, Monday can be one of their busiest days, might want to wait till later in the week.
 

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I subscribe to the Glock Talk forum and several times saw mention with good comments about the G2. Then googled it and there are quite a few YouTubes, etc. Hickok 45 has a good one on the G2 and spoke very favorably of it and there are several others. My LCP is a little puny and the Glock 29 10mm is too bulky and heavy for CC, so a medium sized 9 seemed like a good choice. My budget is limited and the price was a great bonus.
Aha!!! Think Hickok 45 has sold more G2's for them then any marketing they have ever done. You are precisely the target market Taurus is aiming for. That being said I think with a very good cleaning especially the firing pin channel you will be O.K. I would get a snap cap and pull that trigger as much as possible to smooth it out. If you got one of the bad batches of triggers the safety blade will snap in 2 within 1000 pulls of trigger. Reminder if sending back to Taurus you have 90 days then return shipping is on you. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm a bit slow getting back in action. Caught a cold 1½ weeks ago - I thought - and then really got sick. Diagnosed as pneumonia last Monday and just now starting to feel human again.

While laying around, I've been fooling with this thing quite a bit and watching many, many YouTubes. Took it back to range just before I got sick and trigger pull was much improved, but after the 1st shot I could barely get it to fire. Action cycled properly, fed new round properly but trigger would NOT pull. Finally got pissed and just mashed down till finger turned white and it fired and cycled. The whole magazine was like that.

From reading/watching, I "think" the problem there is the little catch that lifts up when center portion of trigger is pulled. Looks more like a hook than a sliding component. Going by a YouTube, I took the slide off and spent a very long time just clicking it. At 1st, it was catching badly on "something." Then, as I kept working it, it started smoothing out, but then once in a while it'd hang again. Again, this is with slide off.

Holding pistol in right hand, there's a little spring loaded doohickey at rear of and just above transfer bar from trigger. Pressing down gently on that and pulling trigger it seems to make the sticking much worse. More clicking and it seems to be smoothing out. Press trigger with right index finger and pull back at ~45º it catches again. A strong pull breaks it loose and after ½ dozen clicks it starts to smooth out again. Something loose in there ?? A burr on the side of a stamped piece ??

I looked at a YouTube of disassembling the action, and altho' I'm a professional fix-it person (commercial refrigeration and restaurant cooking equipment) and have a very well equipped shop, I don't think I want to tangle with that mess. This from a guy who's done a lot of work on my Ruger LCP and Glock 29.

After hearing from you guys about Taurus' wonderful customer service, I don't think I want to wait months for warranty work to be done on it, if it's ever done at all....if I ever even see it again. What a bogus outfit. I talked to a local gunsmith about it today and he's willing to take a look at it next week, tho' he's not familiar with Taurus semi-autos.

Something else I paid more attention to, that I mentioned in my 1st post, is the recoil spring. It comes as a pre-assembled component, but mine appears to be too short. It just flops into the notch on barrel. I can pull the slide back about 3/8" before feeling any resistance from spring.....so is it possible this thing simply isn't going fully into battery ?? I've seen where I can buy a stiffer spring assembly from...Lakeline...??...but that's another $35. Worth it ?? Can the factory plastic assembly be modified without breaking it ?? Seems to me, from observing my other semi-autos, that there should be "some" pre-load on the thing.

My 10mm Glock 29 had a sharp, hard recoil with full power ammo when I bought it and threw empty brass anywhere from 5 to 20 ft or more over right shoulder. It had, I believe, a 17# spring from factory. Going by Glock forum advice, I installed 23# springs and the recoil immediately smoothed out with more of a push than a jolt as before and brass lands a consistent 6 - 8 ft behind me. It's easier on the slide and frame, too. Is something like this do-able with the PT111G2 ?? That floppy, loose recoil spring can't be doing much good in there.

Again, sorry for the very long post, but I'd sure like to get this thing smoothed out and functional. As it is, it's even too small to use as an anchor and rocks are more effective for throwing.
 

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If it has the Taurus Safety Lock, make sure it is fully disengaged..
 

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Really, how can you complain when you haven't talked to Taurus CS, or given them a chance to fix it? Oh, and BTW, letting a gunsmith work on it will void your warranty.
 
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Some pics would help out, for starters.

The Customer CS is really hit or miss, but with the PT111, it seems that turnaround has been fairly reasonable. As to the reviews - the PT111 (or the G2C as it is now known) is a very good pistol and Taurus has sold absolute metric butt-loads of them. The quality of the pistols has been, statistically, outstanding. If there was an issue with the manufacturing process, there would be a whole lot more complaints (like 100's of thousands!)

Disassembling the slide and cleaning the firing pin channel is not a big deal and is very similar to the Glock (with the exception of the "Safety mechanism") and should also be done - but if you aren't comfortable taking the slide apart, take it off the slide, manipulate the firing pin and spray non-chlorinated brake cleaner down the firing pin channel. Do this over a clean shop rag or something to see how much gunk comes out. Remember - do NOT oil the firing pin.

Take the key that came with your pistol and turn that safety all the way left and all the way right to make sure that it is disengaged.

Thirdly, get some polymer safe "Gun Scrubber" or "Gun Blaster" spray and hit the trigger assembly really good, then add a little lube to the trigger assembly.

Also, keep us posted on your progress.
 
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Nooo.....I figured it had been test fired at the factory, so just pulled the slide and did a cursory once over and added a couple of drops of oil to slide, etc., then wiped excess off. Now I'll pull it back apart and do as you say.

Strange feeling. Feels like the trigger is sliding alongside the striker instead of engaging it.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks.
to my knowledge taurus does not test fire anything before leaving the factory, maybe before leaving the Miami facility after a repair, I say maybe.
nothing Taurus that I have bought or received from Miami repair had any indication that it was test fired.
 

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to my knowledge taurus does not test fire anything before leaving the factory, maybe before leaving the Miami facility after a repair, I say maybe.
nothing Taurus that I have bought or received from Miami repair had any indication that it was test fired.
"Your knowledge?"...you are guessing, correct? Every major mfg of firearms test fires the guns they make before packing for shipment. It is not just a QC thing but a liability issue. Unless proven otherwise, I "guess" Taurus fires every gun they make.
 

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Started a reply and it disappeared ???

I pulled the slide off again and tried to see what was going on. I don't know the terminology yet, so please bear with me. The striker assembly is in the slide, part of the red plastic assembly and aside from a bit of grittiness seems to function properly. The double slide return spring is loose in the mounts....no pre-tension on them. Odd, but not the current problem.

Pulling the trigger with slide off moves the center mounted tab that apparently connects with the striker and it sometimes catches on something down in the mess at back of the grip. Sometimes moves smoothly. When it catches, it catches solidly and it takes quite a pull to pop it loose. In any case, pulling trigger while trying to hold that tab shows me that it's solidly connected.

Fast forward - while messing with it with slide removed and trying to describe what I was seeing as I went, the whole thing seemed to smooth out a bit and "caught" less frequently. I put the slide back on and racked it. 1st pull is single action, right ?? Trigger goes far back before engaging, then a light pull fires it. 2nd pull (double action ??) has resistance all the way back before firing. A little gritty but not too bad.

That all seems normal, but on single action pulls, as the trigger is moved back, about ½ way there's a slight catch - just a sort of rough spot that is easily passed, then it fires normally. Hmmm....if I hold trigger to left side as I pull on single action, the catching or resistance is more obvious, but it won't do it on double action. While typing this, I've racked the action more than a dozen times and dry fired probably 20 or 30 and it's feeling better all the time. I only fired 30 rounds at range yesterday and it didn't change.

I'll bet you were right - some gunk in the mechanism was keeping it from catching the striker properly. Now I can sit here pulling double action repeatedly and it seems fine. Single action is also better, but still got that brief binding feeling as the trigger moves past the half way point. I don't much like that.

There are enuf little bits, pieces and springs in the mechanism at rear of grip that I don't think I want to tangle with it without a good set of instructions. Can you recommend a link, esp. to a YouTube ?? Thanks. I'll keep you posted.
Hi Biglar,
Sorry to hear you were so sick. Hopefully you are getting healed up.

I have to say I do not own a G2 but I am throwing out some thoughts that may or may not work for you. As for the guide rod assembly (double slide return) I'm thinking it is not much different than what is in the PT709. There are 3 "steps" that a person could try to place that end of the guide rod. There is a tiny middle step, that is where that end of the guide rod should be placed and there should be a little tension.

This is the process I have used to clean new Taurus guns in the past. Use your favorite spray, plastic safe, cleaner and spray everything inside that gun so the cleaner is running out of the bottom, rack slide, run trigger. Use moderate air pressure, 15-20lbs. to blow all of that out of the gun. Then drench everything in your favorite oil, rack slide, use trigger, use air pressure to blow it out again. Use spray cleaner and air pressure again. Then do a normal oil application. This is a good way to hopefully get loose stuff out of the mechanics of the gun without having to do a detailed tear down, which I would not do!

Plus it sounds like you would be comfortable with removing the striker and making sure that is clean so do that too. If that doesn't resolve the issue then it's time to call the mother ship. Good luck, keep us posted.
 

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"Your knowledge?"...you are guessing, correct? Every major mfg of firearms test fires the guns they make before packing for shipment. It is not just a QC thing but a liability issue. Unless proven otherwise, I "guess" Taurus fires every gun they make.

indeed I am, the same as you are. so until I read, hear differently then I say no they do not, a great many other manufactures do not test fire their firearms , mostly due to cost in ammo and labor to do so.
 

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indeed I am, the same as you are. so until I read, hear differently then I say no they do not, a great many other manufactures do not test fire their firearms , mostly due to cost in ammo and labor to do so.
Strange as myself and others have purchased large lots of fired brass from the mfgs test firing their guns...where do you get your info on the "great many manufactures" not testing firearms? You do understand "proof firing" is required in many locations?
 

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Strange as myself and others have purchased large lots of fired brass from the mfgs test firing their guns...where do you get your info on the "great many manufactures" not testing firearms? You do understand "proof firing" is required in many locations?
ahh, YES! I believe primarily in the European market place?
we were talking about TAURUS however, not many , most manufactures.
in any regards you have YOUR opinion and I have mine.
as there are several moderators and members that have been to the Taurus facility they should be able to offer some insight on just how much test firing of new weapons they observed there.
 

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Your recoil spring assembly doesn't sound right to me. When assembled in the slide with the barrel, does it fall out when facing down?
 
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