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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wolff makes a spring kit with a 9lb, 10lb, & 12lb trigger and an 8lb return spring. The factory is 14lb/10lb. (Ruger sp-101)

Has anyone used one of these Wolf Kits on a
snubby? I would think the modification would be fantastic as long as light strikes aren't a problem. I'd like to go straight to a 9lb with an 8lb return. On a 26oz sp-101, this would be really nice. The end package would be:
Ruger SP-101 2.25"
Wolff 9lb/8lb trigger and return
Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips.
 
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I suggest you ask this on a Ruger forum. They will probably tell you to get a gunsmith to stone the action surfaces, maybe install a lighter rebound spring but leave the hammer spring alone. Number 5 on your gun safety list should be " don't modify firearms from factory specs" :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

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Wolff makes a spring kit with a 9lb, 10lb, & 12lb trigger and an 8lb return spring. The factory is 14lb/10lb. (Ruger sp-101)

Has anyone used one of these Wolf Kits on a
snubby? I would think the modification would be fantastic as long as light strikes aren't a problem. I'd like to go straight to a 9lb with an 8lb return. On a 26oz sp-101, this would be really nice. The end package would be:
Ruger SP-101 2.25"
Wolff 9lb/8lb trigger and return
Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips.
I used the Wolff spring kit on my wifes SP101. I also polished the parts a bit on my buffer (hammer/sear) not really removing any material but slicking it up a bit. It worked great and really lowered the DA trigger pull down to where my wife was able to fire it much more accurately in DA. I have not had any light strikes except with .32acp where the thinner rim lets the round sit deeper in the cylinder. 32S&W, H&R, and 327Fed all work 100%
 
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I used the Wolff spring kit on my wifes SP101. I also polished the parts a bit on my buffer (hammer/sear) not really removing any material but slicking it up a bit. It worked great and really lowered the DA trigger pull down to where my wife was able to fire it much more accurately in DA. I have not had any light strikes except with .32acp where the thinner rim lets the round sit deeper in the cylinder. 32S&W, H&R, and 327Fed all work 100%
What weight springs from the kit did you use on your spousal unit's SP101 ?
 

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What weight springs from the kit did you use on your spousal unit's SP101 ?
I think it was the 10# spring, but it was several years ago. I am sure I still have the other springs, but probably not the packaging that says which is which.
 

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Try this link:

www.sp101trigger.com

That will tell you all you need to know about doing a trigger job on an SP101. IIRC, the author uses a 12#trigger and a 10# return spring.
 
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Try this link:

www.sp101trigger.com

That will tell you all you need to know about doing a trigger job on an SP101. IIRC, the author uses a 12#trigger and a 10# return spring.
Yep....that's more like it. He also talks about hammer shims. I find these to really help with Ruger DA revolvers. I have .003 - .003 in a Security Six and .006 -.002 in a GP100. S&W's hammers fit much, much better.
 

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Wolff makes a spring kit with a 9lb, 10lb, & 12lb trigger and an 8lb return spring. The factory is 14lb/10lb. (Ruger sp-101)

Has anyone used one of these Wolf Kits on a
snubby? I would think the modification would be fantastic as long as light strikes aren't a problem. I'd like to go straight to a 9lb with an 8lb return. On a 26oz sp-101, this would be really nice. The end package would be:
Ruger SP-101 2.25"
Wolff 9lb/8lb trigger and return
Pachmayr Diamond Pro grips.
They will definitely help. I would start with the Wolffe springs equal to the factory Ruger weights, or maybe the 10# trigger return spring.;)
 

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While we are talking about a Ruger DA revolver, let add a little hint. When you replace the trigger assembly back into the frame, make sure it's centered. It comes from Ruger centered but they are rarely centered after they have been replaced. After you snap the trigger assembly back into the frame, run a fingernail across the seam and you will almost certainly find it to be just a bit out of alignment. I use the non-marring plastic screwdriver handle to tap the trigger guard until both sides line up perfectly. I have a GP100 Match Champion and when the trigger assembly is in alignment it's like the door and ramp fitting of Klaatu's flying saucer space ship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
While we are talking about a Ruger DA revolver, let add a little hint. When you replace the trigger assembly back into the frame, make sure it's centered. It comes from Ruger centered but they are rarely centered after they have been replaced. After you snap the trigger assembly back into the frame, run a fingernail across the seam and you will almost certainly find it to be just a bit out of alignment. I use the non-marring plastic screwdriver handle to tap the trigger guard until both sides line up perfectly. I have a GP100 Match Champion and when the trigger assembly is in alignment it's like the door and ramp fitting of Klaatu's flying saucer space ship.
I have found the same to be true, on a GP100. I've always used a small plastic dead blow hammer of lightweight. Like the ones you get at Harbor Freight. Thanks for the heads up on that though. It has been a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I suggest you ask this on a Ruger forum. They will probably tell you to get a gunsmith to stone the action surfaces, maybe install a lighter rebound spring but leave the hammer spring alone. Number 5 on your gun safety list should be " don't modify firearms from factory specs" :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Too late. I've altered several S&W's I had an S&W M15 that was so light that I was amazed that I never had reliability issues. But nope. Had it for years, never any issues, and smooth as silk. I've never modified a Taurus trigger and likely wouldn't, as the stacking point makes a good cheater, for shifting your eyes from target to FS. (Bad habit I know) I am actually looking to break that habit) One good reason to drop that bad habit is that Tauri tend to lose that stack with age. But if a spring kit scares you hang on to your rear. I'm also adding a tritium front sight and custom grips. That'll keep you up at night. LOL This one won't be a toy, it'll be a daily, and I'll likely have help from Terry my local GS and friend. Terry handled my 15, but I would like to do this one...... Maybe... Tritiums, will be new for me as well, and I'm not totally decided on that yet.
 

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My 2 cents,
trigger jobs/kits are for match guns only, they make the gun finicky and unreliable, You may get a failure to fire, unintended fire or a full auto, three things You do not want in a defensive weapon.
Only modify the firing mechanism of a firearm if You are trying to gain a couple tenths of a second in competition and if You only use it in competition, otherwise it is only a liability.
 

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My 2 cents,
trigger jobs/kits are for match guns only, they make the gun finicky and unreliable, You may get a failure to fire, unintended fire or a full auto, three things You do not want in a defensive weapon.
Only modify the firing mechanism of a firearm if You are trying to gain a couple tenths of a second in competition and if You only use it in competition, otherwise it is only a liability.
You read my mind and DAMN! that is a dangerous thing to do!
 

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HMMM//
I am trying to think IF any of my carry weapons are factory stock???
I know that I have several 1911 that are but I don't generally carry them.
oh yea the Sig 365 is!
all my CZ and Tanfoglio have had spring kits or springs changed.
many of my 1911 as well.
I can't remember the last time I had a malfunction with any of my weapons and I shoot between 8-10 K rounds per year.
as matter of fact my main carry the CZ P-01 is at over 10 -K rounds now without a single malfunction of any kind. so .
I guess I am just a lucky old guy.
its like anything, moderation nd reliability is best used.
 

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But, did you just change out springs or do full internal polishing? I’ve done a few minor surgeries to a few of mine but mostly just cosmetic and some very minor mechanical work.

Funny. I can take out an appendix and gall bladder or even do an open heart bypass if urgency dictates it but looking at an “exploded” firearm diagram looks Rube Goldberg to me!
 

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But, did you just change out springs or do full internal polishing? I’ve done a few minor surgeries to a few of mine but mostly just cosmetic and some very minor mechanical work.

Funny. I can take out an appendix and gall bladder or even do an open heart bypass if urgency dictates it but looking at an “exploded” firearm diagram looks Rube Goldberg to me!

I can also remove internal organs, the recovery rate seems pretty darned low however--very few repeat customers it seems!
depends on the weapon actually.
the CZ have all only under went a reduced power main spring (13#) and a firing pin spring and a longer fir pin--the slightly longer firing pin dramatically reduces light strikes with an 11 or lower pound mainspring.
I use 13 pound mainsprings.
the CZ Shadow -2 came with all the goodies out of the box so it was not messed with.
the regular tanfoglio received lighter mainsprings as well as Titanium firing pins, the Tanfog Elite Matches were great out of the box they are hand fitted and have most all the after market goodies from the factory so no messy with them.
various 1911 have received various things depending on how good/poor the triggers were, from new hammers, new mainsprings, new Sear springs, polishing etc.
Now to clarify here-- any pistol that I own I do thoroughly tested for function in stock condition and improved condition, I run CCI primers in my reloads and I generally get at least 1 box of S & B, Tula or other foreign ammo that is known for hard primers and test fire those, nothing goes in the holster that does not have minimum of 300 rounds flawless either new or improved.
 

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Too late. I've altered several S&W's I had an S&W M15 that was so light that I was amazed that I never had reliability issues. But nope. Had it for years, never any issues, and smooth as silk. I've never modified a Taurus trigger and likely wouldn't, as the stacking point makes a good cheater, for shifting your eyes from target to FS. (Bad habit I know) I am actually looking to break that habit) One good reason to drop that bad habit is that Tauri tend to lose that stack with age. But if a spring kit scares you hang on to your rear. I'm also adding a tritium front sight and custom grips. That'll keep you up at night. LOL This one won't be a toy, it'll be a daily, and I'll likely have help from Terry my local GS and friend. Terry handled my 15, but I would like to do this one...... Maybe... Tritiums, will be new for me as well, and I'm not totally decided on that yet.
Yes...I admit I'm scared of spring kits and have nightmares about tritium sights. In you original post when you said you were going with a 9# hammer spring you must have been aware that there would be replies suggesting that this is a bad idea. Then....you accuse those you cautioned you against that idea as being unmanly. That' called TROLLING.
 

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With the Wolffe springs of the same weight rating, you're only improving the action by using higher quality springs. If that doesn't get you where you want to be, going to the next lower weight trigger return spring may or may not reset the trigger with enough force, and therefore the SP101 would need to be thoroughly tested. In his SP101s my shooting partner found that going 2# lighter on the hammer spring without reducing the weight of the trigger spring from Wolffe gave him the result he likes best and he did a lot of testing before relying on them for carry. I think the negative stories come from the guys that start cutting coils because someone recommend that.

Also remember that the pistol makers buy springs by the gross while the Wolffe springs are higher quality. Guys that shoot CZ pistols may remember back to when they were buying Eastern European Springs where it was highly recommended to replace them with higher quality springs like those from Wolffe.;)
 

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The real problem with replacing the springs when doing a trigger job on a revolver is that you may get light primer strikes. To avoid that but lighten the trigger somewhat your best bet is to only replace the trigger return spring and leave the stock hammer spring alone.

With that said, I have a sp101 with Wilson Combat springs and has been 100% percent reliable.
 

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The real problem with replacing the springs when doing a trigger job on a revolver is that you may get light primer strikes. To avoid that but lighten the trigger somewhat your best bet is to only replace the trigger return spring and leave the stock hammer spring alone.

With that said, I have a sp101 with Wilson Combat springs and has been 100% percent reliable.
Well, what I'm talking about is a spring replacement only. Trigger jobs are entirely a different subject. Rugers benefit, sometimes greatly, by simply installing better quality springs of the same weight rating. On the other hand I have greatly improved S&W triggers by simply polishing the action parts without any spring changes, and not jacking with the leaf type hammer spring unless you replace it with Wolffe's Power Rib. The reality being that unless you really understand the differences between polishing, filing and cutting, your best bet is to have a qualified pistolsmith do the work, whereupon he'll decide what parts need changing. Trigger Jobs and Trigger Kits are 2 different subjects.;)
 
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