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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Long time reader first time poster. Last night I field stripped my G2c and was taking a hard look at everything. The notorious hitch i believe is from the trigger safety. Once depressed, about an inch through the pull it looks as if the trigger safety gets minutely “popped” out of the way. The next “hitch” is audible takes place when the restrike sear passes through the SA sear.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Illinois! I moved your post so that it would get more notice. See the Heat Gun trick to improve the trigger.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Oklahoma.
 

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This trigger problem pops its head up every few months. I wrote a message about it a couple years ago, and keep it on file for when it pops up again. Here it is:

I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” or “hitch” as I pulled the trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. Back then I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.

Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! That's when I realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111 G2.

After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's are inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to rub against something when it does retract, resulting in a "click".

Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.

Ledbeter36 said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111 g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”

Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic. So here's what I did. I tied the trigger safety-blade down on the trigger with a small zip-tie, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer, trying to direct the heat to the trigger blade safety and inner workings of the trigger. Then I let it set a couple hours. I did this several times, and then let it sit for a week with the zip-tie still on. When I finally took off the zip-tie, the "click" was gone completely. I thought the click might come back after a few weeks, but it's been a couple years now and the trigger still works fine.

In March 2019 I got a new G2C, and I wondered if Taurus had fixed their trigger “click/hitch” problem. Nope, it's still there. I did my zip-tie/hair dryer trick, and now my G2C works great too!

There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5% I estimate). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens, all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.

Try my zip-tie/hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
BTW, I would NOT use a “Paint remover” type heating gun. That may cause permanent damage.
Good Luck!

P.S. Welcome aboard, from Las Vegas!
 

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I do use the HD paint remover heat gun...but sparingly...:cool:
 

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Welcome to TA from Minnesota.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you everyone for Welcome and the advice! I ended up ordering a asmund trigger (and recoil spring 16lb factory setting) from Galloway precision. This cured the hitch. I feel a “click” now but that’s from when the da sear comes into contact with the bottom of the sa sear in dry fire or manipulation. Haven’t noticed it during shooting. Only while I’m silently judging an affordable piece in the quietness of my home. Anyway since my original post I’ve personally added the asmund trigger, 16lb recoil spring, truglo tritium night sights, and took a dremel to flatten the mag plate so it’s OAH is 4.5”. It’s dimensions more closely represent that of the p365 now. My next plan is to do a full DAO conversion to it once I track down the post on here. The trigger pull weights are nearly identical and everything feels more sturdy when firing in DA compared to the SA.
 
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