TCP Disassembly latch problems

I added a simple champfer to the end of the pin and that pluse tipping it to let it ride over the spring helps get it started. Not sure what he pin is made of, but my bench grinder handled it with ease and that tells me it isn't heat treated. You might take a look at this sticky too. I believe they covered it in there. I did these enhancements on the wife's TCP and that thing has ran flawlessly. http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/smithing/40279-tcp-738-reliability-enhancements.html

In my TCP, the spring that retains the pin was so high it prevented me from getting the takedown pin inserted. As mentioned by HD-Mike, you can chamfer the takedown pin to help get it started. However, when I was switching my TCP's magazine release to the right side, I took the opportunity to put some relief into the spring using needle nose pliers. Now my takedown pin is easy to remove and install - I can even remove it with just my finger nails. If you choose this path, be sure you don't tweak the spring so much the takedown pin is loose and is no longer retained correctly.

I guess what bothers me is that Taurus doesn't make it chamfered. Is this an oversight, which would seem bizzare or is there some logical reason. Why would they delibrately make a product that if frustrating so many people as I've seen from the multiple places i've seen people post about this. I probably will chamfer the pin but i'm not fooling with the spring. I can always make a new pin.

Fordupot said:

I guess what bothers me is that Taurus doesn't make it chamfered. Is this an oversight, which would seem bizzare or is there some logical reason. Why would they delibrately make a product that if frustrating so many people as I've seen from the multiple places i've seen people post about this. I probably will chamfer the pin but i'm not fooling with the spring. I can always make a new pin.

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There are some good YouTube videos where they show inserting the pin at an angle to help get it to go in. Maybe that would help you too?? The pin has a head and a retaining ring groove in it. I think you'd find "making" one hard to do - at least I would. I agree that a chamfer from the factory would help, but also wonder if the factory might have a reason they don't. I've never had that much trouble getting my pin in, but can understand the frustration when things don't work like expected. I just worked the spring while I was doing something else. The spring ended up being the easy part after my sear and its spring fell out on my work surface. Figuring out how to get all back together was a study in patience and persistence. I hope you get everything working to your satisfaction...

I just cleaned my TCP today. Atfer taking the pin out the slide would not come off. Tried pushing against the table. It would not come off. I resorted to using a wooden mallet. It finally came off. When I tried to reassemble it would not slide back on. So I removed the barrel and the slide slipped right on. Maybe the problem was in the barrel. Stuck that alone back in the frame and it would not move. Upon examination of the frame I found a nasty burr on the inside pin hole. Some careful smoothing with a stone and the barrel would slide smoothly. Put it back in the slide and it went back together smoothly. What could cause a burr like that? I have never forced it back together. Pin always goes in easily. Strange. I guess I'll burn some ammo up and see if it happens again. Any ideas?

I have to angle my pin.

mesadeldoug said:

What could cause a burr like that? I have never forced it back together. Pin always goes in easily. Strange. I guess I'll burn some ammo up and see if it happens again. Any ideas?

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In my experience, many new guns have manufacturing burrs that don't get spotted by QC. They are usually folded over burrs that are hard to spot, but will become more apparent as the gun is used.

Then some burrs don't show up until a gun is actually put into use as the metal parts wear into each other. About all you can do is remove the burr, and keep on shootin'.