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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I am new to this forum, although not new to Taurus. I have had a 941 in .22WMR for more than ten years and was very fond of a Beretta 92 knock-off I had a few years ago (I believe it was either a PT-92 or a PT-99).

Today I test fired my latest Taurus acquisition for the first time, a Stainless, 4" Tracker in .357 Mag. I bought it used for a very good price and, today, I found out why. If fired in single action mode by first cocking the hammer, it works flawlessly, with a very light and smooth trigger action.

HOWEVER... when fired in double action mode by pulling rearward on the trigger (without first cocking the hammer), half of the time the primer was barely dimpled and the round did not fire. It was as though the hammer was breaking with half force on its down stroke. When I cocked the hammer and re-fired the same round, it went bang just fine.

Hopefully, some of you Taurus revolver aficionados will be able to assist me. I know I can send it to Taurus in Miami and they'll repair it but... the last time I did that, the gun they sent back, although the same frame, was considerably less friendly.

Many thanks in advance,

John

St. Petersburg, FL
 

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Welcome from New Mexico, I have not experienced this type of problem before but someone else more knowledgeable will be along shortly. Have you taken off the grips and made sure everything on the inside is nice and clean and looks OK? Also does it look like someone may have done a trigger job or anything to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome from New Mexico, I have not experienced this type of problem before but someone else more knowledgeable will be along shortly. Have you taken off the grips and made sure everything on the inside is nice and clean and looks OK? Also does it look like someone may have done a trigger job or anything to it?
Yes, I replaced the Taurus Grip with a Hogue and made sure everything inside was clean before firing. As for the trigger, with the hammer cocked, the trigger is extremely light and smooth, much more so than my 941. A trigger job may have been done. Not sure how to tell. I found the Taurus Revolver disassembly thread and I plan to pull the grip back off in the morning, remove the side plate and see what's what.

Am looking forward to the more knowledgeable cavalry's arrival!
 

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Sounds like you have an issue with the double action sear on the hammer. That's the spring loaded piece on the hammer. Either its crudded up with dirt/grease or the spring is broken or dislodged from between the sear and hammer. If you have taken a revolver apart before, and were able to put it back together (lol), you should be able to figure out which of these problems it might be. Have you cleaned the internals yet? That's something recommended for any newly possessed gun. If you don't feel you can do it yourself, then you may want to seek a local gunsmith. Otherwise you will have to send it to Taurus. Good luck and welcome to the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Took it apart, this morning. Can find no specific sear spring problem. However, The transfer bar is tapered at the top and I don't know if it's supposed to be. The rear of the firing pin also appears to be a little worn on its bottom half, where the transfer bar contacts it. Two pictures, below, for your collective thoughts:

Uncocked Sm.jpg

View attachment 24691
 

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Did you try double action with the sideplate off? If the transfer bar is not making the hammer high enough, then maybe your getting a soft hit. This is just speculation on my part. I don't own that particular model. If you think its the transfer bar, Taurus may send you a new one if the part is not restricted.
 

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By the way, my M605 transfer bar is tapered at the top; its designed that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
By the way, my M605 transfer bar is tapered at the top; its designed that way.
Thanks, Righty.

C'MON, YOU GUYS, NEED SOME IDEAS HERE...
 

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The two things that come to mind is reduced power Wolff springs or excessive end-shake (horizontal, or back and forth cylinder play). Endshake should be around .001 no greater than .003. You can tell if stock Taurus springs are present becuase they are color coded. You should see some residual colored paint or dye on the stock springs to verify they are are stock. Wolff springs are usually a grayish metallic no paint.
 

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If it was end shake, then I believe light strikes would happen in both single and double action. That is not happening with this one. Did you try double action w the sideplate off? Does the transfer bar travel high enough at the point when the hammer releases? How far back does the hammer travel before it falls? If the hammer does not travel all the way back in double action, then it could be a trigger assembly problem. If you hold the trigger down after the hammer falls, you should see the firing pin protruding through the frame recoil shield. If that seems fine, then maybe the springs have been replaced and are too light.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The two things that come to mind is reduced power Wolff springs or excessive end-shake (horizontal, or back and forth cylinder play). Endshake should be around .001 no greater than .003. You can tell if stock Taurus springs are present becuase they are color coded. You should see some residual colored paint or dye on the stock springs to verify they are are stock. Wolff springs are usually a grayish metallic no paint.
Thanks, AdestiAnimo. Cylinder appears to be within tolerance. Trigger spring has blue color code but I don't see a color code on the main spring. Do you know what color code the main spring should have?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If it was end shake, then I believe light strikes would happen in both single and double action. That is not happening with this one. Did you try double action w the sideplate off? Does the transfer bar travel high enough at the point when the hammer releases? How far back does the hammer travel before it falls? If the hammer does not travel all the way back in double action, then it could be a trigger assembly problem. If you hold the trigger down after the hammer falls, you should see the firing pin protruding through the frame recoil shield. If that seems fine, then maybe the springs have been replaced and are too light.
Thanks, Righty. D/A with the side plate off has the transfer plate fully engaging the firing pin and the firing pin protruding through the frame with the trigger held. However, with the hammer in the cocked back position, it is indeed, a full 3/16" further back in its arc from where the hammer falls in D/A. Is this normal?

Additionally, sometimes, if I pull the trigger back very, very slowly in D/A, there is an audible "click" just before the hammer is ready to release... feels like a detent somewhere in the trigger assembly. It's probably at the point where the sear just clears the trigger tang. Again... Normal?

Does any of that help?

Many thanks for your continued interest,

John
 

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I concur with Righty in that it could be a trigger assembly issue. I would start with the trigger spring. I am not sure what color code they use for those. The other issue is the trigger assembly is off limits so any parts there are going to require a trip to Miami or dredging the Internet like Numrich for parts. It is not an unusual practice for folks to cut coils off the stock springs either but it sounds like a new trigger spring, new mainspring would be a good fist approach especially if this is a used gun. You may also try to install a new firing pin spring for the heck of it as well, those are not restricted and can get them through Taurus. These can wear out too. If the gun is not a year old and your timing is good (I do not like the "Taurus Approach" to fixing timing issues) send it in. Shipping will be covered (less than a year from original purchase date), if it's not you pay for shipping one way, they pay for the return, so consider it like a gunsmiths flat fee since it really covers any fix. Once you get it cycling right you'll have a mighty nice gun.

Good Luck
 

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Based on what you are describing, I think your best bet is to get some replacement springs. Whether you choose to get Wolff springs or stock, that's up to you. Keep in mind that if you have to send it to Taurus, stock springs will need to be installed; if they aren't, taurus may replace them with stock ones. Just so you know, double action hammer travel is shorter than single action travel. How much shorter the hammer travels in DA depends on each models design. As far as the clicking sound, I'm not sure; its probably the cylinder lock clicking into the slot which would be normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Playing with the Tracker today, in D/A mode, I used the trigger to cock the gun as slowly as I could. Finally, I moved slowly enough where the action hung up just as the "click" occurred. Below is a picture of the action hung up in what I'll call then "clicked" position. The dark metal piece with the number "5" stamped on it is the sear and if you follow it down, you can see that rather than breaking free, the sear is sitting on the top of the (silver colored) tang coming off the trigger... as though the trigger tang found a tiny little detent on bottom of the sear! (If I continue to pull the trigger, the sear will release and the hammer will drop.)

Whatever else is going on with the action causing the FTF, this can not be a good thing!

Unless y'all have any additional suggestions, I guess I'm just going to have to send it to Miami and see what comes back. Here's the picture of the action in the "clicked" position.

Caughtinclickedposition.jpg
 

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I'm not sure if triggers are "staged" on this model; and I'm not a gunsmith. I don't think its supposed to hang like that, but maybe designed that way to help the cylinder lock engage before the hammer falls. Operating the DA that slow may cause things to happen that aren't supposed to and it may be perfectly normal. So, sending it back would probably be best.
 

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Just so you know, double action hammer travel is shorter than single action travel. How much shorter the hammer travels in DA depends on each models design.
DrDyno, righty is correct on this statement. Your revolver has a double action sear and a single action sear. The hammer has to go farther back to reach the single action sear.

Here's the trigger and hammer resting on the single action sear. Your prior photo is showing the trigger resting on the double action sear.

 

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Operating the DA that slow may cause things to happen that aren't supposed to and it may be perfectly normal.
+1 on this, too. Pull that trigger through smoothly and let the hammer fall. Creeping along as slow as possible doesn't seem to work well in Taurus revolvers. Some double action trigger staging can be done on Taurus revolvers, but not like certain double action Rugers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hi All,

I just received my Tracker back from Taurus, this morning. When it comes to their lifetime warranty, they're certainly good to their word! I also love that they send it back in a new Taurus box!!

Here's what the Warranty receipt says, in exactly this language and notation:

SHAVING LEAD - Forcing cone undersize ADJUSTED

MISFIRE Hammer has short stroke REPLACED

MISFIRE- Trigger worn out REPLACED


So... I'll report back after a trip to the range, later this week.

Oh, and a further lesson is, of course, when you buy a used firearm: regardless how good the deal, you never know what you're getting!

Regards,

John G.
St. Petersburg, FL
 
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