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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had mentioned in a recent range report that my new SS M85 was malfunctioning (binding) (light strikes) using one kind of ammo and functioning properly using another. http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/taurus-revolvers/60916-range-report-new-taurus-ss-m85.html I saved my casings and made snap caps with the casings from the malfunctioning ammo. I then used these snap caps in my M617 which has some pretty high mileage. The snap caps cycled in the cylinder without binding. I then tried to cycle the snap caps in the SS M85. The casings are dragging across the back strap primarily above and below the breach face where the firing pin and recoil shield areas are. I lubricated these areas and dry fired the revolver (with the snap caps) to work it in and I lost the cylinder lock up for one of the bores. This may explain why I was getting light strikes during the box of ammo that was binding. They were not actually light strikes the casing were dragging causing that one cylinder bore to slip putting the same (discharged) bore back into battery. This malfunction does not happen with normal snap caps and thinner ammo, only with the thicker ammo. The dragging seems to be stressing out the one bore in particular however, the lock up over all has some subtle noticeable slop overall. When I first took delivery of this gun I did notice the lock up was a little sloppier than usual but I tested each bore in the cylinder and there was no slipping at that time. Ironically I ordered a new cylinder lock after I got the gun prior to the range report becuase I prefer a tighter lock up. I got a replacement cylinder lock for my 617 after I purchased it and it was like night and day.

1550vt called it in his response to my concerns in the original post,:

"ALL ammunition is suppose to meet SAAMI standards for tolerances in rim thickness....among other things. It is possible you got a bad batch, but it's not likely. I had the very same problem with a M327 and a M85UL. The remedy....refinish and polish the back-strap and recoil shield area. I will not own a gun that I have to hunt-n-peck for ammo it will shoot. If it won't fire off-the-shelf ammo in the caliber intended, it's likely the gun. It is certainly possible that brand of ammo is bad, but if it were...they would not be in business very long.

I would find another well-fired and known good 38-special and use the suspect ammo to confirm what you may think is bad. I rather think the area in the interior of the back-strap and the recoil shield needs attention. The two guns I mentioned above would shoot the cheap stuff all day, but as soon as you started feeding it better quality ammunition (built with better brass) problems were encountered."


My questions are: 1: what kind of file(type of metal) or polisher can I use to refinish, polish or reduce the back strap/recoil shield area. 2. Even though I have a new cylinder stop in the mail I wonder if maybe the lock up for the single bore of the cylinder is out of spec since it's the only one that slips during binding? It does not slip in that bore or any other with ammo that does not bind. The cylinder play is looser now (lock up was actually not as good as my used M617 when I first received it. I did check the gun in full lock up pri to taking delivery and they all seemed good) Any thoughts on if a new stop may remedy this? If it sounds like I am on the right track?

Thank You!
 

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Good luck Adeste. My honest opinion got one of your threads locked yesterday for which I apologize. I guess there is a limit that one eventually hits in the complaint department and I used the "majic words".

I am out of here and I hope you eventually get your issues resolved and wind-up with a weapon that functions.
 

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AdesteAnimo:

Your setting off your thoughts into paragraphs make this post much easier to read than the one that was recently locked.

Keep up the good work in this regard.

It is unfortunate that you have had serious issues with the last two Taurus revolvers that you've owned. I wish you good luck in your latest "adventure".
 

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My questions are: 1: what kind of file(type of metal) or polisher can I use to refinish, polish or reduce the back strap/recoil shield area.
I have never ventured down that path so I cannot help you there.

2. Even though I have a new cylinder stop in the mail I wonder if maybe the lock up for the single bore of the cylinder is out of spec since it's the only one that slips during binding? It does not slip in that bore or any other with ammo that does not bind. The cylinder play is looser now (lock up was actually not as good as my used M617 when I first received it. I did check the gun in full lock up pri to taking delivery and they all seemed good) Any thoughts on if a new stop may remedy this? If it sounds like I am on the right track?

Thank You!
If only one chamber of the cylinder is having a lock up problem, then I would think that there is a problem with that chamber's cylinder notch. Perhaps that notch it is burred and not allowing the cylinder stop to lock into that notch. A new cylinder stop will have to be checked for fit to make sure the width of the stop is not too wide for the cylinder notches.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yup sent it back to Taurus today. With these instructions within the other verbiage, to the attention of "The Review Board": After receiving my replacement SS M85 DN8.... in lieu of my M650 DM7.... with severe timing issues (After three trips to Miami), the SS M85 has failed after its first range trip. Many types of factory standard pressure 38 sp fmj ammo and factory snap caps are dragging on what may be an *uneven surface area on either the breach face, recoil shield and/or back strap where clearances may be too tight for some ammo and okay for others. I believe the machining is uneven from what I can tell. All SAAMI approved ammo should cycle through this revolver and the headspace should not exceed 0.064. Headspace must be correct for the cartridge. Standard cartridges would be .060" to .064". One out of five cylinder bores are not locking into the cylinder stop causing cylinder roll. The hand is not completely engaging one or more of the ratchets on the extractor star assembly. I am assuming that one or more of the ratchet studs may need peening. Ratchet teeth should be free of burrs and must not be "staked" to achieve timing. Ratchet teeth should be .003" to .007" below the center of the extractor and should not rub frame. *In fact if the backstrap and recoil shield headspace is within .060-.064 the ratchet teeth rubbing the frame may be the root of the binding. The quickest fix may be to replace the extractor star assembly assuming the replacement assembly is within tolerances. Please inspect all tolerances first. The sear also needs to be inspected. While inspecting the revolver, after removing the side plate, the sear spring had disengaged from the hammer assembly and was horizontal instead of vertical. This happened twice while pulling through the action trying to recreate the malfunction. It may have been a product of the binding malfunction, or possibly the sear. The sear spring or the sear or both may be out of tolerance. Please inspect and replace if necessary the sear, sear spring and or the hammer assembly.
 

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Hope you get your problem solvef soon.

The only thing as bad as car trouble on a rainy day is a new gun that isn't reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup, one good thing about it is 6 months ago I was ignorant to the terms and technical data I communicated to them in this letter. My overall knowledge base and technical ability with revolvers has increased dramatically. I also addressed a nice letter to the CEO/Executive committee; all positive. That many opportunities can be discovered and allot can be gained from the willingness to understanding why a product fails and if you are willing to use that failure as a circumstance to create success.
 
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