[timothydgordon]

I am researching what to do now, I'm really worried as my pistol is quite old (no decocker) and last time I called customer service they didn't have a record of my PT92AFS.

I really hope this gets resolved in a timely manner. I only got four shots off today at the range before it broke, it fired the round that was loaded but failed to eject and wouldn't strip, I could not get the slide off the frame. It was terrible.

I'm thinking that if this is going to be a problem and happen again with the new locking block they send, I might just buy the Beretta locking block.

Sadly yours,
Tim.

 

[sleepyweasel]

I would get the new beretta locking block, make sure it has the "relief cuts".....there used to be a guy that sold them cheap on ebay, but i think he had to move to gunbroker after the policy changes at ebay. good luck.

 

[joe sixpack]

ya beretta block will last longer, please remember this is the weak point in the design and even though the newer beretta design will last many 1000's of rounds (iirc it's rated for 30 or 35k)
it will break again..

make sure when you clean the gun to inspect the locking block, it probably had a crack in it already if it broke in 4 rounds..

btw how many rounds you got in it before it broke anyway?

be careful when you try ot strip it.. if it did'nt already you can damage the frame..
taurus will probably send you free replacement block if you send the old one back..
that way you dont have to send the whole gun in.

if it has frame damage though or you can't get it apart you might have to send it back the way it is..

good luck and keep us posted.

 

[jwc007]

See my FAQ regarding this subject: http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/index.php?topic=1848.0

Your pistol will be easily returned to working order with a new Locking Block. I do recommend the new long life Beretta Locking Block and a 15 lb Wolff Extra-Power Recoil Spring!

Field-Strip after the Locking Block has broken can be tricky sometimes. Rocking the slide back and forth sometimes frees it up. Sometimes not.

Can you get it apart? If so, just get the parts. If not, send it to Taurus and let them fix it! Regardless of whether you are the original owner, they will fix it. Get the Beretta Locking Block and enhanced recoil spring, regardless.

 

[Gray_Wolf]

just a minor setback IMO; get a new locking block and you're back in the game...

 

[timothydgordon]

The problem is I am in Canada and in Canada there is ZERO customer support from Taurus USA, there is no such thing as Taurus Canada so they transfer calls to R Nicholls who don't seem to be great. I kind of feel left on my own with this subject so I'm going to take everyones advice and just get the new and improved Beretta locking block in addition to the 15lb recoil spring (why a different recoil spring by the way??)

I did get it apart so thank-you for asking I am going to follow up with some pics.

Tim.

 

[timothydgordon]

 

[joe sixpack]

nice pictures, yup that is a classic locking block break, btw how did the frame hold up? sometimes when they break they can really rip up the frame.. the rails specifically.

hope you get it all squared away.. just make sure you inspect it next time these can usually be caught before they break.

 

[timothydgordon]

I was very gentle when stripping so there appears to be only cosmetic scratches along the inside of the rails, no warping or dings. What should I be looking for? if I provide high definition pics like the ones above could you identify a problem?

 

[joe sixpack]

if it has serious damage it would be obvious to you.. cracks or gouges.. but a few scratches you're fine.

 

[timothydgordon]

if it has serious damage it would be obvious to you.. cracks or gouges.. but a few scratches you're fine.

Thanks, I appreciate the quick response. I'll provide pics anyway for posterity as soon as possible.

 

[Gray_Wolf]

I'm going to take everyones advice and just get the new and improved Beretta locking block in addition to the 15lb recoil spring (why a different recoil spring by the way??)

Standard recoil spring is 13lbs (if it's the same weight as beretta's)...If the recoil spring is too light or worn out the slide will beat up the frame and locking block and something will breat eventually. Heavier recoil should prevent the damage but if it's too heavy for the load you're shooting you'll run into reliability issues (jams). Wolff shipps springs to Canada (guess how I know? ) you can get get a calibration pack which includes a few different spring; that way you can find out which weight works best. But at the very least I'd recommand getting a new standard weight recoil spring.

 

[jwc007]

As for my recommendation for a slightly heavier recoil spring, it was first recommended to me by the Wolff Representative from some of their testing on a number of 9mm Pistols, and some of my 9mm pistols, of similar size, are sprung a little heavier. My own testing with the 15 lb spring has proven it to be excellent with Standard Commercial Ball Ammo and heavier loads. It dampens felt recoil considerably and should extend the life of the frame and locking block.

Recoil Springs do wear out over time and use and should be replaced if you feel that frame battering is occuring. I replaced mine at about 18,000 rounds. I probably should have replaced it at about 15,000 rounds. My PT92 currently has about 23,000 rounds thru it and is still going strong!

 

[Gray_Wolf]

I'd do it even more often; every 5-10K...

 

[af22raptor]

I have a PT92 AFD the that was purchased in 1993 I have well over 20K rounds thru it and I had a block brake about 6 years ago. Taurus replaced with 3 weeks and I was back online. For what I hear taurus Customer Service currently sux but they can get you one eventually. Its a sad fact that sometimes parts fail but as long as no damage was done and there wouldnt be done by a block breakage you will be fine. I change out the guide rod spring every 2 years or 5K rds what ever comes firsts. I PT92 still shots as it did when I first got it: LIKE A CHAMP! Not sure about the current production models but pre-2000 Tauruses were hard to beat. The Beretta block will work and if you can find out it might not be a bad idea to get one.

 

[Richard]

I would get the new beretta locking block, make sure it has the "relief cuts".....there used to be a guy that sold them cheap on ebay, but i think he had to move to gunbroker after the policy changes at ebay. good luck.

Where and how can I get a Beretta locking block for my PT92? I do already have a new one, just in case, but if the Beretta block is better, I'll try that.


PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER PT92 FOREVER

 

[Gray_Wolf]

I know david olhasso sells beretta parts...just google his name.

 

[joe sixpack]

well you can get a block, block plunger, retainer pin, and recoil spring as a kit from beretta.. think their like 59.99.. or you might try ebay or google..

since my taurus has the standard taurus block which is the old design im unsure about this..

but the newer 3rd generation beretta blocks with relief cuts required a new plunger to be installed.. and also difficult if not impossible to slips the 3rd gen blocks out without taking the plunger and pin out to remove it.. older blocks could be wiggled out.

im not sure if you would need to but i imagine you'll also need a new type plunger with the 3rd gen beretta block on a taurus.

heres the block from beretta: http://www.shopberetta.com/e2wItemM...5599&parentLink=012000100:008000253:008000254

kit: http://www.shopberetta.com/e2wItemMain.aspx?functionId=009000008&parentID=019004337

 

[Richard]

My PT92 was made in 1991, and I also had a new stainless PT92 back in 2006. I could interchange them and they had the same grooves and were basically the same. I also bought another new one from Taurus and tried it on both and it worked just fine. Sold the stainless, and just did put the new locking block on my old 92. I'll now keep the original in case the new one ever fails, but I might as well get another (looking decades ahead unless the demojerks take away our gun rights).

 

[CHoffman]

I thought this post by ToddG on 9x19.com forums was pretty interesting. I believe it was he who used to work for Beretta and was responsible for the Vertec although I could be mistaken.

The major issue with US Military M9 "maintenance" is that it's almost nonexistent. A pistol is shot until the locking block breaks, then an armorer pounds the gun apart and just drops in another locking block. Adding injury to insult, this "new" locking block is often from a previously used gun that broke or was scrapped for parts, so the block isn't really new and you have no idea how many rounds it's fired already.

Over the course of thousands of rounds, a new gun's locking block and the slide (specifically, the front edges of the cuts where the locking block moves up and down) wear in together. Because of the barrel's rifling, the barrel torques every time it's fired so the wear is not even from right to left.

When you drop a different locking block in the gun, the shoulders of the block may no longer mate up properly with the slide cut. Now, every time the gun fires, instead of both shoulders getting struck by the slide simultaneously you get just one shoulder forced to absorb the full impact of the slide's recoil. So the block breaks much faster. This is why many people see their first locking block last a good while, then the next one breaks much sooner, and the third one sooner still, and so on.

A trained armorer with a file can make sure the replacement locking block and the slide mate flush, which will increase the life of the new block. The only downside to this is that (at least as it was being taught five+ years ago) the fitting was done to the slide, so if you replaced locking blocks enough times you'd eventually have slide cuts that were out of spec and the barrel lockup might suffer.

Furthermore, when the locking block is fired to the point where it actually breaks you frequently have damage to the aluminum frame rails and possibly other parts of the gun. So simply replacing the block doesn't address the stresses placed on the gun when the first block broke. It's a lot like a car tire. If you replace it on a schedule before it blows, you're just spending money. If you wait until it blows out, not only is it much less convenient (not to mention it can happen at a time when it costs you more than convenience) but you run a higher risk of damaging other components (wheel, etc.) too.