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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have been on other forums lately and there seems to be one constant misinformed idea around the PT1911. most are afaid of the pt1911 because all the parts are proprietary. they are afraid aftermarket parts of any make will not fit or work in in pt1911's. most have not owned ,handled or ever fired a pt 1911. they go to the extreme that a slide stop other than a taurus will not work because the barrel link a pin are different size. i was under the impression taurus designed the pt1911 to mil spec tolerances but with the improvments. so the other day i took apart my pt 1911, my colt government series 80,started swaping parts to see what would fit and would not. most of the parts would drop in some would work with some minor fitting. didn't bother takink my kimber 1911 apart to see, that may be my next experiment. b ottom line my pt 1911 out shoots my other 1911's even with all the MIM parts. just wondering how mant pt 1911 owners have changed out parts? have you run into parts that would not fit because the pt 1911 is out of spec.? the only parts i have changed in my pt 1911 is a left sided saftey and a extended slide stop.
 

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On my PT1911-SS, I had to slightly 'fit' the Wilson extended slide catch, but the S&A arched MSH w/ magwell slid right in. Funny thing, check your Kimber's MSH and see if it's plastic or metal. As I told one Kimber Kid trash talking PT1911 at a gun show, "At least the first letter in MIM means Metal." Even the dealer at the table didn't know that they were plastic. I think most guns are more capable than the owner's, but even I can out shot most of the Kimber Kids at the range, and I can afford twice as much ammo. :D
 
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I've changed the barrel bushing to a Wilson combat thick flange. The trigger to a Fusion "K" aluminum one. The hammer sear and disconnector to Ed Brown hardcore and perfection types. They all fit with minor tuning required to the grip safety for the trigger bow, and the thumb safety due to the sear being a little beefier. It is as far as i'm concerned spec'd to any other 1911. The Hammer sear and disconnecter were drop in as far a great trigger pull and feel. I got my trigger down to 3 1/4 lb pull with the stock fire control parts. After the Ed Brown stuff it breaks clean at 3 lbs. I didnt have to fine tune that at all and I have no hammer follow issues through any safety checks or live fire. Glad I ditched my Pro Carry II for this Gem! Oh I also put in a S&A magwell housing and an Ed Brown firing pin stop. No fitting needed for those two items, and an Ed Brown hammer strut. I didnt realize how much I changed........ I think I have a problem. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes the kimber msh is plastic, i haven't changed out any other parts in my pt 1911 other then mentioned because i see no need to. it already has a good trigger,and is very accurate. i take apart the reciever a polish all parts and tweak the springs thats it.my trigger breaks clean at 4#.
 

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Thanks, oso, for starting this thread.

You've already gotten some excellent responses.

I shall follow this thread with great interest.
 

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I have replaced the hammer, sear, disconnector, trigger, all pins, hammer strut, safety, Mainspring cap, slide lock, barrel bushing, firing pin, FP stop and grips. I had to tune the safety and slide lock, both things that should be down on any 1911. Sound like those people don't know what they are talking about!!




Also, IMO bashing another company is no better than bashing Taurus and my Kimber has a steel mainspring housing, not that it makes one difference in performance!
 

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Already posted in the Enhancements thread, but I'll re-post here...
I fitted everything myself except the thumb safety, and after watching it done, I'll do it myself next time.
Anyone that says a PT1911 is out of spec or difficult to work on has never touched one.

List of "enhancements" in order of installation:

EFK Fire Dragon Compensator - Very minor fitting, just a little off the locking lug.

EFK Fire Dragon Recoil reducing dual action guide rod - No fitting

Ed Brown Maxi-Well and snakeskin main spring housing - no fitting

STI Auto match trigger - some fitting required, had to break out the file

Cylinder and Slide Tactical match hammer, disconnect, sear, mainspring and sear spring - no fitting, but required thumb safety fitting.

Ed Brown extended thumb safety - this one I took to the pros for fitting and blending.

Ed Brown slide stop - a little bit of filing, the mags were real hard to insert till I did. Also had to use 800 grit sandpaper on the button to get it in the frame.

And last,(and maybe least) Ed Brown stainless grip screws.


The results...







 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
stallard i did not start the thread to bash other companies. i own many firearms made by other co.'s, i have upgraded several 1911's made by other co.'s. i haven't upgraded my pt 1911 because it already shoots very good. it is very tempting. 1911's are very much like AR's you could change anything and everything, and it is addictive. i was only asking because i know here on this forum many pt 1911 owners have changed out a lot of parts and was wondering if anybody has run into parts that would not work because of reciever/frame or slide being out of spec. of all the 1911's i have worked on i have only found one brand that the reciever was out of spec.,(pin holes in wrong location) making for very difficult upgrades unless you have access to a machine shop.
 

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The one that seems to get by most people who talk about a MILSPEC 1911, is Rule #1 of the 1911: There are no drop in parts on a 1911. As long as the pin locations are close to the MILSPEC you should be OK. EVERY part you replace on ANY 1911 you should expect to do some fitting. The 1911 is just a gunsmithing intensive design. That is why there are 1911 smiths who are well paid for their custom built 1911's.

Having said that, the only proprietary parts that I know of on the PT-1911 are those Series 80 parts, including the extractor and firing pin. You might count the sights in that since the dovetails have a unique Taurus cut to them. And the grips on the steel framed PT-1911s (it was corrected on the AL frame) are slightly offset to the point it is best to request a Taurus cut when ordering grips for them. From all of my swapping parts around out of my 1911 parts box, that has been the only departures I have seen from any other MILSPEC based 1911 I have run into.

There are 2 areas I generally look at as "don't mess with these" or if I intend to swap them out for other parts they really need to be fitted by a 1911 gunsmith, not just any gunsmith, but a real honest to God 1911 smith. Everything else can be done by the owner with a little research and a modicum of ability in hand fitting parts. Those areas are the fire control group (includes the hammer, sear, disconnector which if you replace should be done as a group) and the barrel group (includes the barrel to slide fit, barrel link pin and bushing). There are kits that put these groups within reach of the typical DIY guys (like Cylinder & Slide's trigger kits and Kart Barrel kits), but any barrel that says drop-in only means they got the specs close and final fitting should be by a 1911 smith. In these 2 areas if you don't absolutely know what you are doing, then take it to a 1911 smith.

One of the problems when buying parts labeled "drop in" is that they may be too small or over/under cut to the point that they can not be made to fit your 1911. I get a lot of my 1911 parts from EGW because I know they are oversized and will require fitting, but they can always be made to fit. It is back to the whole misconception, that the 1911 industry uses to build a huge inventory of after market parts, of the idea that you can buy "drop in" parts for a 1911. It gets everyone wanting to hot rod and individualize their 1911 and then when those parts don't improve the performance of their 1911 but makes it worse, or in some cases makes their 1911 unsafe to operate, they blame the manufacturer of the 1911 for building a 1911 that is "out of spec", rather than understanding the true nature of the 1911 design from the beginning. That is not to say that auto pistols can not be designed with a minimum of gunsmithing, otherwise called highly skilled labor, but that the 1911 is not one of those designs, and as long as they stick to John Browning's original 1911 design it never will be.

If you understand the above, then you will understand that the PT-1911 is a very good 1911, as good as any other 1911 design in being what may folks refer to as a MILSPEC 1911, better than most because it uses a forged frames (both steel and aluminium) while others use cast frames. In its price range, the PT-1911 has better bones than its competition.
 

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VTB that is a MOST EXCELLENT pistola!! :) That is like the reverse image of what I was thinking to do. Mine is SS and I'm looking to replace all the same parts, but in black for the contrast. I think yours in particular exemplifies why the PT1911 is so appreciated. You probably still have less than the cost of a comparable Kimber tied up in it, but you get the added Pride of DIY, and it is truly one of a kind, and will shoot better than most.
 

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Already posted in the Enhancements thread, but I'll re-post here...
I fitted everything myself except the thumb safety, and after watching it done, I'll do it myself next time.
Anyone that says a PT1911 is out of spec or difficult to work on has never touched one.

List of "enhancements" in order of installation:

EFK Fire Dragon Compensator - Very minor fitting, just a little off the locking lug.

EFK Fire Dragon Recoil reducing dual action guide rod - No fitting

Ed Brown Maxi-Well and snakeskin main spring housing - no fitting

STI Auto match trigger - some fitting required, had to break out the file

Cylinder and Slide Tactical match hammer, disconnect, sear, mainspring and sear spring - no fitting, but required thumb safety fitting.

Ed Brown extended thumb safety - this one I took to the pros for fitting and blending.

Ed Brown slide stop - a little bit of filing, the mags were real hard to insert till I did. Also had to use 800 grit sandpaper on the button to get it in the frame.

And last,(and maybe least) Ed Brown stainless grip screws.


The results...







Sweet looking gun . How well does it feed HP ?
 
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