I would like to hear this aswell. I only own 2 revolvers a M85UL and the 500 mag raging bill so all the info I can get on revolvers is helpfull
Taurus model 85 firing pin
After buying the Taurus PT92, and found that Taurus makes quality handguns, my next purchase will be a model 85 revolver. I was looking at one yesterday and noticed it has a internal firing pin. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of them?(if any). The only other revolver I have owned is a S&W model 36 which , as you know, has the firing pin on the hammer.
Thanks, John
Great forum, BTW
Thanks, John
Great forum, BTW
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Most modern revolvers use the pin in frame design. The idea being the pin is more accurately lined up with the charge port, and it lines up with the primer for a more direct and straight strike. It also allows the use of a transfer bar safety system, very much in vogue these days. Downside is no direct connection with the hammer, a floating firing pin that can stick or fail to return to position due to a broken spring or crud building up around it. You also can't see if the pin is damaged or broken.
As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of it, although it does work adequately.
Pin on the hammer: Easy inspection of the pin. Positive connection to the hammer, it will always travel with it, therefore not get stuck or fail to return to position. Less complicated, less moving parts to fail. It requires a hammer block safety instead of the transfer bar system, which as far as I can tell works just as well preventing accidental dishcarge. Downside: Pin is more exposed to damage if gun is dropped or mishandled with hammer cocked (not likely, but possible), Pin does not strike the primer straight, but at an angle. It does however strike with more force IMO.
As you can probably tell, I prefer the pin on the hammer.
As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of it, although it does work adequately.
Pin on the hammer: Easy inspection of the pin. Positive connection to the hammer, it will always travel with it, therefore not get stuck or fail to return to position. Less complicated, less moving parts to fail. It requires a hammer block safety instead of the transfer bar system, which as far as I can tell works just as well preventing accidental dishcarge. Downside: Pin is more exposed to damage if gun is dropped or mishandled with hammer cocked (not likely, but possible), Pin does not strike the primer straight, but at an angle. It does however strike with more force IMO.
As you can probably tell, I prefer the pin on the hammer.
I heard somewhere before that with the pin on the hammer you are not suppose to dry fire but you can if the pin is not on the hammer, or vice versa I cant remember, so whats your thoughts on dry firing a revolver with either firing pin set up?
Well, I guess it depends on the gun. On the two older smiths we have with hammer mounted pins, the hammer stops on the frame, and the pin travels freely without touching anything while dryfiring. I've been told that the frame mounted pins will actually deform from striking the frame. I use snap caps on both regardless. Cheap insurance.
I guess that makes sence, I have not found any snap caps for my 500 but when I took it by my Smith to show it off he dry fired the hell out of it haha he said it doesnt do a thing and its not going to hurt it. I try not to do it anyway but I thought I would get others opinions
All the new S&Ws have frame-mounted firing pins to go along with their very odd internal locks. I'm keeping my relatively elder Model 13 with the hammer-mounted pin and no lock. I do like my 85SSUL with the frame-mounted pin and inobtrusive (and never used) lock on the hammer.
ECS
ECS
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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