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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got one almost twenty years ago. Blue with a 6" barrel. It is still is the pistol that I shoot the absolute best with. Only problem was the extractor rod coming loose, and it took 19 years and probably over 50000 rounds for that to happen!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can't beat that with a stick. Probably shoot four boxes of 38 special DEWC's for every one box of some, shall we say, hot loads of .357 magnum. The barrel still has sharp rifling and like I said, it is the most accurate pistol I shoot, bar none. So much for the Taurus naysayers! ;)
 

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I bought a 4" nickeled M66 at a gun show about 5 years ago for $197. I saw it, was the cheapest on a big table of revolvers. Picked it up, checked it out, was tight as a drum, perfectly timed, beautiful finish with one little thin spot on the cylinder probably from holster wear that's not that noticeable. I'm thinkin' there's gotta be something wrong with it, but I went there specifically to get another 4" medium frame .357 since I'd traded my Rossi M971 for a stainless Blackhawk and I'd sold my M19 Smith and traded my Security Six for a .357 Blackhawk. To me, a medium frame DA 4" .357 is a must have in the collection, so I was at this gun show specifically to fill the hole.....again.

One thing about .357s, I'd not had a DA gun that shot .38 special worth a toot and really wanted one that would group .38 as well as .357. the Rossi wasn't too bad and it was a light gun, easy to carry afield. I sorta miss it, was stainless, nice outdoor carry. Anyway, I got this M66 home. It's the newer transfer bar lockwork and the trigger is as smooth, or nearly so, as my old M10 Smith and Wesson. I took it to the range and fell in love right there after two 25 yard groups off sandbags with my 148 grain .38 wadcutter handload made little clover leaf 1" groups! With a 140 grain Speer handload in .357 Magnum, the gun groups about 1.5" at 25 yards, off a rest of course. Out of one Rossi, one Smith, one Ruger, and one Taurus, the Taurus is the tack driver of the bunch. My Security six couldn't group that wadcutter load any better than about 3.5" and the M19 shot about 3" with that load. Both were 1-1.5" guns with .357 Mag. This is quite common in .357, but not necessarily the case, which the Taurus proves.

So, about a month or two ago, I'd been wanting a 3" .357 medium frame .357. I went to another gun show lookin' for that possibility and specifically for a used Smith and Wesson that everyone says you can get for $200, like another M10 or something. Well, $200 used Smiths are a myth around here. For 200, you might get a box of parts. M19s, M13s, 65s, 66s run in the $400 range. My God, I think I paid $220 NIB for my M19, okay, that was 25 years ago, but still. Heck, when I bought my NIB Security Six in '78 it was $190. They didn't have any old Security Sixes, generally didn't have any bargains. Then, I happened upon this 3" Taurus M66 blued. It had quite a bit of holster wear and a timing issue. Also seems to have about .0005" of end shake, but nothing out of hand. It's the old hammer block lockwork and is not as smooth in DA as my nickeled one. I talked the guy down off $200 by pointing out the timing issue. It didn't look like it'd affect function and I thought maybe I could send it to Taurus as last resort. I couldn't get him below $180, so I took it for that. After I got it home, I noticed the cylinder crane had an awful lot of slack play in it. Some ying yang had the side plate off it that didn't know what they were doing and got the wrong side plate screws in the wrong holes. The forward screw is extended to bare against the cylinder crane and he had a shorter screw there. So, I pulled the side plate. I found the cylinder pawl, the hand that turns the cylinder, has a plunger and spring in the side plate and the spring on that plunger was messed up on the end. So, I trimmed it a tad and reassembled and the timing issue was gone! It now times perfectly, just like my newer gun.

At the range, this gun shot a 1" group with wadcutters and about 1.5-2" with its best .357s. I got another jewel! I've have been happy with less accuracy in this gun. I wanted it for CCW carry IWB. But, I'll take the accuracy!!!!! I don't guess it was the screamin' deal, considering it's older and did have issues that my 4" gun didn't, but it has turned out to be a keeper!
 

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Grab the cylender with your right hand, the ejector rod with your left. Turn the ejector rod away from you until it unscrews and put a small drop of removable loctite on it and screw it back in. You'll be good for another 20 years. I have the same problem on my 88 which is a stainless 66 from what I gather.


BTW nativetexan, open the cylender of that stainless 66 in your pic and see if under the gate it says 88...please? Thanks because that is exatly what mine looks like and it is a model 88.
 

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BTW nativetexan, open the cylender of that stainless 66 in your pic and see if under the gate it says 88...please? Thanks because that is exatly what mine looks like and it is a model 88.
Nope, it's a 66 and it's not stainless, it's nickel. Notice the blued hammer and trigger? Also, when you open the cylinder, the back of it is blued, not nickeled.

Here's another shot of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sniper X said:
Grab the cylender with your right hand, the ejector rod with your left. Turn the ejector rod away from you until it unscrews and put a small drop of removable loctite on it and screw it back in. You'll be good for another 20 years. I have the same problem on my 88 which is a stainless 66 from what I gather.


BTW nativetexan, open the cylender of that stainless 66 in your pic and see if under the gate it says 88...please? Thanks because that is exatly what mine looks like and it is a model 88.
Yeah, was going to do it, but since it was never totally disassembled and thouroughly cleaned, I took it to my smith for him to do an ultrasonic cleaning, lube job, and fix the rod. Was scared that the built up crud was what was holding her together. But when I got her back, she shot just as sweet as ever.
 
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