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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finally got to take my M85 Ultra-Lite to the range.

Gratuitous Picture


After bringing it home, I did the standard Taurus revolver welcome home. I popped the slide plate and doused it in CLP to get all of the metal bits and grit out of it, then let it drip dry with the slide plate off. After putting it back together, the action was 10 times smother. This is personally considered a must for all new Taurus revolvers.

I used snap caps to get used to it, then loaded up some plinker ammo, CCI Blazer 158gr LRN, and a box of my planned carry ammo Speer Gold Dot 135gr GDHP Short Barrel, and headed off to the range. I couldn't really be there for a long range session, so I only took 120 rounds total.

After getting there, I bought 3 large bullseye targets, they were out of silhouettes, and set the first target up at 5 yards and loaded up 5 of the Blazer 158gr LRNs to give it a go. Keep in mind, the Blazers out of my 357 have the recoil of a .22, so I wasn't expecting much of anything even though the UL only weighs 17oz. I brought it up in a double hand grip, cocked it, and fired off one single action shot.

Holy cow! The recoil was harsher than my 357 with stock magnum loads. It was impressive to say the least. Not to mention the flash was huge.

I fired off 3 more and checked the crimp on the last round. It slipped, but not enough to lock up the cylinder, so I fired it off and loaded up another 5. Again, the last round slipped crimp, but not enough to be an issue. One the third load full, the last round slipped enough to lock up the cylinder. After a bit of playing with it, I was able to open it up and eject the round. So much for cheap 38s for plinking.

Next I moved on to the Speer Short Barrel. I was expecting something like a hammer hitting my palm, but after firing off one, it was just a bit less than the Blazers. None of the 4 last rounds of the 4 full loads jumped crimp. It was almost pleasant to shoot. The muzzle flash wasn't noticeable, but I wasn't really paying attention to it. I only had 20 rounds with me, but it shot point of aim for me, and the recoil was such that with a few more rounds, doing a 5-5-5-5 drill shouldn't be that difficult to do. Thumbs up for Speer Short Barrel!

All in all, I put around 90 total rounds though it. My hand hurt afterwards, but nothing to extreme, and for a first time out, I was decently proficient with it at 5 yards.

Pros: The grip is really comfy and the guns points naturally for me. The looks, to me, are more pleasing than the Smith J frame. The trigger, though a bit heavy is very consistent and smooth as silk. The weight of the gun makes it like it's not there.

Cons: Blued guns show wear and scratches like the all get outs, and it is not helped by the Al frame in contact with stainless steel parts. The black on black sights disappear on a black target. The weight of the gun make for some heavy recoil. My cheap 38s jump crimp, so I'll have to find some substitute for general plinking ammo.

For the future, I have a wolf spring set on the way in hopes of lightening up the DA trigger some while maintaining reliability. I'm also trying my and at making a leather pocket holster for it as well. I'll post a how to when I get done with it, assuming that it is not a total mess.

All in all, I am very please with it.
 

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Very nice range report MrtuffPaws. I have the same gun in stainless and I too like mine very much. If you don`t mind let me ask about the CLP into the side plate thing. My trigger is nice and smooth but I would love to have it get better. I have never taken the side plate off my M85. If I just remove the plate will all kinds of parts just come flying out for me to lose or never get back in the right way? And when you take the plate off, you say you just doused it good with the CLP right, and let dry? I guess I need to do this also as I have only fired maybe 40 rounds through it. Is there anything else you or anyone can tell me about this before I get the screw driver out. I know not to try and pry the plate up, have heard that you can kinda turn gun over to let plate fall off, is that right, and will anything else come falling out? Thank you and I did not mean to run off with your post here but I fill I can trust your advise from reading some of your post. Thanks Karl
 

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I like mine(817) in the SS and they seem to be the same, but my 605 in .357 not the lite has much more recoil in the mags and alot more flash than the .38. It's a good gun the Ms. carries it, the 817.
 

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Interesting. I've never removed the plate on my 605. Does everything just "spring out" or do you just have to be careful?
How much junk was in there anyway?
 

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Jkwas said:
Interesting. I've never removed the plate on my 605. Does everything just "spring out" or do you just have to be careful?
How much junk was in there anyway?
This is my concern also Jk, with my M85. Perhaps someone will come along today and give us an answer. I never got a responce to a question on Dry Fireing that I posted in Smithing a few days back. :???:
 

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Thanks for that Jk. At least we know now what it looks like inside. 8) I think i`m still gonna wait for someone to come along here that has done it and can offer things to watch out for if any. :-\
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For removing the slide plate, you first have to remove the grips. For the stock grips, they are two piece, so after removing the screw, at the butt, use something soft to pry one side of the grips off. I used a tongue depressor.

Then there are three screws that hold the side plate on. The screw under the cylinder is a multi part piece with a small spring and a little pin that holds the yoke in the frame. Make sure you don't lose it. the other two are normal small screws. Make sure you use a screw driver that fits the screw head so you don't mar the screw.

After you have the screw out, hold the gun in your hand lightly with the top strap in your palm, and the butt pointed at you. Take a rubber mallet and smack the butt of the gun. This will flex the frame enough for the side plate to pop off. This is the so called correct way to get the side plate off. You can also take a chopstick and stick it under the side plate where the main spring assembly enters the frame. Gently pry and the plate should pop off. Don't force anything.

Caution: The side plate has some wickedly sharp parts on it, as well as the frame, that get exposed when you disassemble your revolver. Don't poke holes in yourself.

Now with the side plate off, you can check out the workings of your revolver. Nothing should go flying anywhere, as everything is mounted on pins. If you start prying on stuff, don't blame me if something pops out and you can't get it back in.

You can also work the action with the slide plate off as well. Just realize that the hammer is missing half of what usually guides it, so it might have enough play to strike the frame of the gun instead of the transfer bar. Best to put a finger on the hammer/sear when doing so to make sure that it doesn't go anywhere.

One thing to note. With out the screw to hold the yoke in, if you open the cylinder with the side plate off, the cylinder and yoke will slide off the frame. There is a plunger and a spring that fit in the the part of the yoke that inserts into the frame, so make sure you don't loose them if you take your yoke/cylinder off of the frame.

To clean, I just spray a crap load of CLP into the action, work it a few times, and then sit the gun up so that it can drip dry. Swab up what is left of the CLP, then put the side plate back on. Keep in mind that the side plate is tabbed so that you will have to put it back on the frame a certain way. Once back on, screw the three screws back in, making sure that the multipart screw is all together when you insert it.

Pretty simple, and if you are careful, not really any risk. Chances are good though that your gun will leak CLP for a few days after doing this, but just swab it up with a dry patch. It will stop after a while.

I have a spring set coming in soon. I'll document swapping out the springs and make a thread about it.
 

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Thank you so much MrTuffPaws, just the right info I hoped for. And yes, please post about swapping out the springs when you can. About that tough, would that void the warranty or would you just put the factory springs back on if you ever had to send it back home. And again forgive me for highjacking you range report thread.
 

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Thanks TP. My cylinder release is getting "Notchy". I'm thinking there's some junk in there that I need to get at.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
flounder22 said:
Thank you so much MrTuffPaws, just the right info I hoped for. And yes, please post about swapping out the springs when you can. About that tough, would that void the warranty or would you just put the factory springs back on if you ever had to send it back home. And again forgive me for highjacking you range report thread.
No idea on the warranty. As you said though, you can always stick the factory ones back in if you had to send it back to Taurus. Not like they are going to know about it.
 

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Remember the old tip that has been posted in here before. Take it apart inside a big plastic bag if you have worries, and make sure your not on shag carpet, lol
 

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Thanks guys. Took plate off, no problems, sprayed every thing with CLP and have it sitting up to dry out. :clap:
 

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flounder22 said:
Thanks guys. Took plate off, no problems, sprayed every thing with CLP and have it sitting up to dry out. :clap:
Was there a lot of junk in there or just some lint?
 

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thinking about taking the side plate off on my M85 (steel), just out of curiosity. it has about 1200+ rounds through it, so it might have some junk in there. but the action is already very smooth and the cylinder gap is still .005 inch. I don't know...I have this mentality that if it ain't broken, don't fix it. but curiosity might get the better of me.
 

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Jahfakin said:
thinking about taking the side plate off on my M85 (steel), just out of curiosity.  it has about 1200+ rounds through it, so it might have some junk in there.  but the action is already very smooth and the cylinder gap is still .05 inch.  I don't know...I have this mentality that if it ain't broken, don't fix it.  but curiosity might get the better of me.
I've looked thru all the openings in my 605 and it seems clean in there.  I'm reluctant to open up a can of worms that might be best left alone.  I figured out the notchiness in my cylinder release is not under the side plate but the pin at the center of the extractor star.  I applied some  gun oil and worked the heck out of it with the butt end of a mini maglight.  Seemed to help.  I guess some crud build up. 
.005 is a good gap.  I wouldn't touch that part.  Mine is .007-.009 with .002 endshake. it has .010 headspace. 
 

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Jkwas said:
Was there a lot of junk in there or just some lint?
To tell you the truth, it was clean as a whisle in there but the gun is only 4 mo. old and shot less then 50 times. I gave it a good dose of CLP anyway since I was in there and I believe MrTuffPaws said this is done by folks even when the gun is first brought home new or used unless I misunderstood his post. Which I continue to highjack here.
 

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great post Mr TP. I've always wondered how these little beasties would compare with a steel .357 snubbie. But clean your guns......what a novel idea! :D
 
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