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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my PT111 and PT145 purchases I purchased a Taurus 851SSUL revolver. My two pistols have given me good service and I thought a Taurus revolver would be the same. Wrong! Already my UL is sitting in a gunsmiths shop. On my first attempt to clean the barrel before a trip to the range I noticed small metal burrs at the front end of the barrel. Apparently when the steel barrel was pressed into the light weight shroud (at the front) several small metal burrs intruded into the barrel. I examed the gun at time of purchase but not with a mag glass to see this flaw. The gunsmith said he could fix or send it back to Taurus but it would take about five weeks. Anyone have a similar problem with Taurus workmanship? Was told if I shot a round it might send splinters sideways or worse. Thought I would mention this in case someone else purchases one of these ultralight revolvers where the barrel is eclosed in a lighter shroud.
-banff
 

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Didn't I see this same message posted on another forum?

I've encountered one bad Taurus revolver out-of-box - a 94UL (timing problem). Took it back to my dealer, who traded me out for an 85UL. The 85 has performed without fault for years now.

What do we learn from this? Not much. A single anecdotal case, or two cases, doesn't constitute a statistical sample. If Taurus revolvers were typically faulty, you would be hearing about it in hundreds of (unique) forum postings.

But your story does point up the importance of doing business with a responsible dealer - mine didn't argue, and was willing to refund my money if I had insisted.
 

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Perhaps returning the revolver to Taurus for them to make it right would be preferable to your local gunsmith. I have two Taurus revolvers, (mod. 85 ultralite & mod. 617, stainless) both of which I would stack up against anyone else's. Anything that is mass produced will occasionally crank out a bad one. Taurus wants to protect their reputation and find the weak link in their quality control.
 

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A five week turnaround is a bit of an inconvenience, but that is your best bet. Sending it back to Taurus is the sure way to get it right. See if the shop can send it for you to avoid shipping costs. I would say Taurus should foot the bill for freight on a new gun.
 

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They should ... but they won't. I agree, have it sent in if they are willing to do so.
 

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I would take it back to the shop from which it was purchased and demand a new gun. If the gun was never fired then it is obvious that YOU did not cause the problem. If they won't do that, then I would at least make them pay for postage to Taurus.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. Bring it back to the dealer, or send it back to Taurus, or have a gunsmith correct it. Due to travel distance to the dealer and gas costs, or shipping costs, I went with the gunsmith I trusted for $25 with a cleaning and a once over.

Got it back in a few days and it looked good. Went to the range today and started on a box of CCI 38 specials (not +P's). After 14 rounds the cylinder started free wheeling and would not lock into position. Now it's going back to Taurus! (Is it time to bad mouth Taurus? *) Anyone have ideas on what may cause this free wheeling? Are the internals of these UL's different?

Noticed in a few other posts on this forum some others have had their Taurus in for repairs and it's been upwards of 8 weeks waiting. Is this still the going rate?

-banff

* No, I'm just disappointed. I have a Taurus PT111 and a PT145, both of which have given excellent service. Just assumed their revolvers were just a reliable.
 

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But that was resolved. And we have an onboard factory rep that is a member. Richard From Taurus is holding court in the Member Introduction board. Here's a direct link to Taurus in the way you would want. Give him a chance to take care of or answer the problem.
 

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Qwiks draw said:
But that was resolved.
Correct. It seemingly is resolved after five months of runaround although I don't consider it all good until I have a gun back in my hand and it works properly. That should happen in a week or two I'm told. Still, it does seem like Taurus is really stepping up to the plate in my case albeit a bit late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First, no I am not a revolver expert. I apologize for that. But I would like to learn more from those here.

I've tried a search for this but I am not sure what you actually call it. When shooting the 851 I've noticed a flame out where the cylinder faces the barrel cone. It's about 6 inches on each side. In watching others shoot revolvers I don't notice this happening. Is this from grease/oil? In oiling the barrel I run a patch through a few times until it appears clean with no residue so I doubt oil could be at fault.

The cylinder gap to cone appears to be .008 inches and remains the same during the full trigger pull firing cycle. I've read other posts where this gap is .004 to .006 inches. And in one post it said the gap is reduced once you pull the trigger. Could someone comment on this?

Sorry for the simple questions. Just trying to learn.
 

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Is this physical damage to the gun or are you describing what you see when the gun is fired?
All revolvers will have some gas and debris go out the cylinder sides when fired.

Tighter the tolerances the less side spitting there should be.Have the cylinder gap measured by somone competent with the right guages for doing this. You are right that .008 would be considered excessive and cause this if this is what you are observing.

Seems like you know more than you are letting on about revolvers. :)
The cylinder should lock up and stay the same gap distance shot for shot. Cycle to cycle too.
 

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If the cylinder is freewheeling and not engaging, then it will definately require work by Taurus. The issue with flames coming out from the cylinder I can only guess is caused by an imporper cylinder gap. I shoot a Smith and Wesson 642, Airweright, and I have never noticed this issue with it. You should note the issue when you return the gun to taurus.

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, I am just picking up tips from what others posted on the forum. It's been 35 plus a few years since last shooting anything and am just now getting back into it. There's been a lot of changes in this time. Just trying to get back up to speed.

This flame out is when the gun is fired.

And measured with a car feeler guage.

Thanks for the replys.
 

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When I shoot magnum revolvers, the flash from the cylinder gap is not uncommon. .008 is fine with S&W revolvers so I suspect that it's servicible for Taurus too? A feeler gauge is what I use to measure cylinder gap too by the way...
 
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