Taurus 82 problem

I'd recommend to stop using white box Winchester not a particularly reliable line of ammo from Winchester, as for the cylinder release wiggle every Taurus I've owned Is like that, don't worry about It.

P.S.
Check the ejector rod to make sure It Isn't loosening up

First off: Welcome aboard, from Las Vegas!
Next: I've never had a problem with Winchester White Box, but I've read here that some don't like it.
I use them in my PT-111 G2. Really surprised that you had a problem with them in a revolver.

You should give the gun a good cleaning, prior to taking it back to the range. You need to clean under the cylinder where it spins on the crane, flush it out and clean it all out really well. When you're done, the cylinder should spin freely. You might also want to pop the side plate off and flush that out as well, there is a post stickied under Taurus Revolvers that shows how to do it.

Check the screw holding the cylinder crane in to the frame...............
It is the screw on the right side at the front of the trigger guard, if it is not tight the cylinder will
start dragging on burnt carbon between the barrel and cylinder...................

Many thanks for the suggestions..I'll give those a shot...so to speak

retusn67 said:

Many thanks for the suggestions..I'll give those a shot...so to speak

Click to expand...

Took it apart, as far as cylinder/crane and RH cover off..clean(pretty clean), lubed..surprisingly easy, straight forward(first time in a gun's guts)..to the range next week..thanks again to all.

I think it has been pretty well covered above. Clean under the cylinder ejector star, make sure your cylinder bores are clean. Then while you are testing, before shooting each cylinder load of 5 rounds, make sure the rounds are all seated into the cylinder bore. Winchester white box ammo is usually ok, but it is not what I run. I have had a few problems with that ammo, one time got a squib. Never bought WWB again. But that is just my preference. Good luck. If fails again - try and take a few pics of the of the cylinder star and the cylinder hand area. The cylinder hand is the small arm that grabs the star teeth and moves the cylinder when pulling the trigger. If you live close to NW arkansas I can work on it for you.

Darn, forgot to add, when you run your screws back in put a dab of
blue loctight on them, let it dry a couple of minutes and screw them back in.............
This way they don't back out while shooting..............

loudviking said:

Darn, forgot to add, when you run your screws back in put a dab of
blue loctight on them, let it dry a couple of minutes and screw them back in.............
This way they don't back out while shooting..............

Click to expand...

Interestingly, when I took the right hand side plate off, the lower/left screw was really loose...BUT yup, a little blue loctite on screws..with none on the one that holds the cylinder cradle in.

Mine was stripped (on a 605) and had to go back in. The danger with shooting them when they are loose is that it's easier to strip the threads and once that happens, game over man; to Miami she goes.

retusn67 said:

Interestingly, when I took the right hand side plate off, the lower/left screw was really loose...BUT yup, a little blue loctite on screws..with none on the one that holds the cylinder cradle in.

Click to expand...

UPDATE..with snap caps and then about 50 rounds at range..no issue, no problem..thanks again for the info/videos...