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Very hard moving trigger and hammer. I was disassebly the gun.
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It works hard, if the screws are tight then it doesn't work, if they are loose then it works.Welcome aboard from NW Arkansas. Good job with cleaning it up. How is it now?
The most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.It works hard, if the screws are tight then it doesn't work, if they are loose then it works.
Thanks Erick for diagnosing the issue and I hope the OP is happily sending lead down range soon!View attachment 493533
This enlarged photo confirmed my theory. Can you see this small scratch inside the cylinder hand housing?
This scratch was caused by the pin that pushes the cylinder hand forward. When the cylinder hand is not assembled correctly, this pin remains protruded. When the sideplate is fitted, the pin presses against the side of the cylinder hand instead of pushing it forward.
When you try to pull the trigger or cock the hammer, this excessive pressure on the mechanism makes the cylinder hand rub against the pin, causing the scratch that I highlighted in the enlarged photo.
I will try this, thank you!The most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.
First the cylinder hand must be installed into the recess on the sideplate. Your picture shows the cylinder hand assembled in the mechanism with the sideplate out. If you try to reinstall the sideplate with the cylinder hand in this position, the result is the malfunction described
Second step: install the sideplate, aligning the cylinder hand pin in its respective hole in the mechanism.
Third: Upper and lower sideplate screws must be threaded first, BUT NOT TO THE END. These screws must be tightened only when both are installed.
Fourth: Install the rear screw in the sideplate.
Fifth: put the cylinder in place and its screw.
Sixth: Tighten these last screws at same time.
View attachment 493526
Works the same way. If I tighten the screws it doesn't work. I have a video. I can send you via facebook Romualdas VitkusThe most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.
First the cylinder hand must be installed into the recess on the sideplate. Your picture shows the cylinder hand assembled in the mechanism with the sideplate out. If you try to reinstall the sideplate with the cylinder hand in this position, the result is the malfunction described
Second step: install the sideplate, aligning the cylinder hand pin in its respective hole in the mechanism.
Third: Upper and lower sideplate screws must be threaded first, BUT NOT TO THE END. These screws must be tightened only when both are installed.
Fourth: Install the rear screw in the sideplate.
Fifth: put the cylinder in place and its screw.
Sixth: Tighten these last screws at same time.
View attachment 493526
Same thing, doesn't work when screwed. Maybe you have some video material or similarApparently, sideplate os still bad fitted. Try to fit and align the sideplate only with your fingers before insert the screws, and change the position of the three smaller screws. There's a minimum length difference from one to other, but enough to misalign the sideplate.
How to check? Without the cylinder pusher, it goes on normallyI wonder if the sideplate is bent?
How did you remove the side plate? Smiths say not to use an instrument to pry the side plates off. They are beveled, at least the S&W's are, and this can lead to warping. Rather, simply use a plastic mallet to tap the frame which will pop the side plate up and off.I wonder if the sideplate is bent?