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Hello and welcome from northern Georgia, USA ! I moved your thread to Smithing where you should get more attention . I've not gotten that bold with my wheelguns yet, I did a spring upgrade on my CZ 75 Compact. Caution !! Be very careful to keep all parts together and under control. They are difficult to impossible to replace .
 
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I don't know Taurus, but I do know S&W's. I would put it back together, tighten the side plate screws then dry fire 1000 times. take the side plate off and look for shinny spots and look for the part that caused it. Likely a high spot or a burr. Then lightly stone both places, use a fine stone. Blacken the shinny spots reassemble and repeat dryfire and stoning. Don't mess with the points where the hammer and trigger engage
 

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If it is stiff after tightening screws it needs more work. I have looked at pic 3 and it is probably put together correctly, but I can't see under the hammer. The parts still look a little rough. Maybe time to have someone else look at it.
 

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It works hard, if the screws are tight then it doesn't work, if they are loose then it works.
The most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.

First the cylinder hand must be installed into the recess on the sideplate. Your picture shows the cylinder hand assembled in the mechanism with the sideplate out. If you try to reinstall the sideplate with the cylinder hand in this position, the result is the malfunction described

Second step: install the sideplate, aligning the cylinder hand pin in its respective hole in the mechanism.

Third: Upper and lower sideplate screws must be threaded first, BUT NOT TO THE END. These screws must be tightened only when both are installed.

Fourth: Install the rear screw in the sideplate.

Fifth: put the cylinder in place and its screw.

Sixth: Tighten these last screws at same time.
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This enlarged photo confirmed my theory. Can you see this small scratch inside the cylinder hand housing?

This scratch was caused by the pin that pushes the cylinder hand forward. When the cylinder hand is not assembled correctly, this pin remains protruded. When the sideplate is fitted, the pin presses against the side of the cylinder hand instead of pushing it forward.

When you try to pull the trigger or cock the hammer, this excessive pressure on the mechanism makes the cylinder hand rub against the pin, causing the scratch that I highlighted in the enlarged photo.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Northern Oklahoma!
 

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View attachment 493533

This enlarged photo confirmed my theory. Can you see this small scratch inside the cylinder hand housing?

This scratch was caused by the pin that pushes the cylinder hand forward. When the cylinder hand is not assembled correctly, this pin remains protruded. When the sideplate is fitted, the pin presses against the side of the cylinder hand instead of pushing it forward.

When you try to pull the trigger or cock the hammer, this excessive pressure on the mechanism makes the cylinder hand rub against the pin, causing the scratch that I highlighted in the enlarged photo.
Thanks Erick for diagnosing the issue and I hope the OP is happily sending lead down range soon!
 

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Welcome to taurusarmed.net from an Old Soldier in Olympia, WA; in the Great Pacific Northwest - "Taurus® Spoken Here!" Hooaaahhhh!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.

First the cylinder hand must be installed into the recess on the sideplate. Your picture shows the cylinder hand assembled in the mechanism with the sideplate out. If you try to reinstall the sideplate with the cylinder hand in this position, the result is the malfunction described

Second step: install the sideplate, aligning the cylinder hand pin in its respective hole in the mechanism.

Third: Upper and lower sideplate screws must be threaded first, BUT NOT TO THE END. These screws must be tightened only when both are installed.

Fourth: Install the rear screw in the sideplate.

Fifth: put the cylinder in place and its screw.

Sixth: Tighten these last screws at same time.
View attachment 493526
I will try this, thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The most common cause is a incorrect assembly of cylinder hand and sideplate bad alignement when reinstalled.

First the cylinder hand must be installed into the recess on the sideplate. Your picture shows the cylinder hand assembled in the mechanism with the sideplate out. If you try to reinstall the sideplate with the cylinder hand in this position, the result is the malfunction described

Second step: install the sideplate, aligning the cylinder hand pin in its respective hole in the mechanism.

Third: Upper and lower sideplate screws must be threaded first, BUT NOT TO THE END. These screws must be tightened only when both are installed.

Fourth: Install the rear screw in the sideplate.

Fifth: put the cylinder in place and its screw.

Sixth: Tighten these last screws at same time.
View attachment 493526
Works the same way. If I tighten the screws it doesn't work. I have a video. I can send you via facebook Romualdas Vitkus
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Apparently, sideplate os still bad fitted. Try to fit and align the sideplate only with your fingers before insert the screws, and change the position of the three smaller screws. There's a minimum length difference from one to other, but enough to misalign the sideplate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Apparently, sideplate os still bad fitted. Try to fit and align the sideplate only with your fingers before insert the screws, and change the position of the three smaller screws. There's a minimum length difference from one to other, but enough to misalign the sideplate.
Same thing, doesn't work when screwed. Maybe you have some video material or similar
 

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The edge of a ruler against the sideplate should not show any gap between the ruler and the sideplate. A gap would mean the sideplate is not flat. I haven't checked a sideplate for flatness so I don't know how flat they are supposed to be. My guess would be as flat as possible.
 

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I wonder if the sideplate is bent?
How did you remove the side plate? Smiths say not to use an instrument to pry the side plates off. They are beveled, at least the S&W's are, and this can lead to warping. Rather, simply use a plastic mallet to tap the frame which will pop the side plate up and off.
 
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