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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was at the range this past week and after about 50 rounds I had noticed a little bit of spray from the gun. Naturally a revolver sometimes has a little spray but this seems excessive. Fired another 100 rounds or so and seemed okay. While packing up I looked the gun over and noticed that the area under the barrel, I guess you call it the barrel shroud? Had a noticeable gap between it and the frame. Now I don't know if this may have been the case before and I never noticed or related to something new. What do you guys think?
 

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I don't have a revolver to compare, but I was just on the factory site and no revolver has that gap
 

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I'm posting a pic of my 66 - it has the same gap. I don't think it has anything to do with what you're experiencing because mine is functioning like any other revolver I've shot.

What kind of spray are you talking about? I know that revolvers shoot gases and lead out the side of the cylinder, but I'm guessing you think it was excessive....did it happen with 38 special, or 357 magnum ammo, or both? Was your hand getting peppered or exactly what was happening to make you think it was excessive?

Edit - sorry it posted the pic upside down, not sure what thats all about but it was right side up when I uploaded it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply guys. Yeah, I looked at pictures online and it didn't look like there was a gap either. But it looks like from the other reply that it's not uncommon in the 66. So I'm a little less concerned about that. Now about the spray, I only noticed a little bit while I was shooting, yes it was a little excessive coming out from the side of the cylinder. The odd thing was when I went down to the Target, I was only shooting at 10 yards, it look like even the target had some spray on it. So I don't know, could have just been a defective round? I was shooting 38 + p. And I do think I read somewhere else that sometimes when you shoot a 38 size round in a full size 357 this can happen. Could that have been the issue?
 

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It could have been a lead bullet that was either too low of a velocity or too high. If the target is getting peppered, then it's definitely leading, and it can't do that with a jacketed bullet. It's leading your rifling in your barrel too, most likely. I would see if the problem goes away when you shoot jacketed projectiles. Then, you might try some different lead bullet loads and see if you can find a good load to use that doesn't have that problem.
 

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Also, if they were lead slugs, were they soft or hard lead? Just thinking out loud...

It could have been a lead bullet that was either too low of a velocity or too high. If the target is getting peppered, then it's definitely leading, and it can't do that with a jacketed bullet. It's leading your rifling in your barrel too, most likely. I would see if the problem goes away when you shoot jacketed projectiles. Then, you might try some different lead bullet loads and see if you can find a good load to use that doesn't have that problem.
 

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Checked the gap on my 66. It is visible but not as bad as yours. I was able to only insert a single sheet of copy paper in it so the gap is about .0025".

Bob
 

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amount of machining done with no human quality control, or quality control that is low.
that's why the Taurus line generally is a lot cheaper in cost than other brands.
some come out the door fine, others not so good, and most in the middle somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was using Remington UMC 125gr SJHP 38+p (not a lot # involved in the recall). I've probably put 500-600 of these through the gun and never had an issue. I have heard that consistently using 38 in 357 can cause build up in the cylinder. I try to be dilligent in getting the fouling in the cylinder off but perhaps there was build up?
 

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I was using Remington UMC 125gr SJHP 38+p (not a lot # involved in the recall). I've probably put 500-600 of these through the gun and never had an issue. I have heard that consistently using 38 in 357 can cause build up in the cylinder. I try to be dilligent in getting the fouling in the cylinder off but perhaps there was build up?
Sure, there could be, but if you keep up with cleaning it then it really shouldn't be much of an issue.
 

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I was using Remington UMC 125gr SJHP 38+p (not a lot # involved in the recall). I've probably put 500-600 of these through the gun and never had an issue. I have heard that consistently using 38 in 357 can cause build up in the cylinder. I try to be dilligent in getting the fouling in the cylinder off but perhaps there was build up?
Generally the build up you get keeps the .357 form chambering. Try chambering a some .357 and see if you have excessive build up.
Check the barrel for leading and also use a light to look down the barrel into each chamber. You should not be able to see any of the cylinder. In the attached picture you can see on the right a portion of the cylinder. They are out of alignment and could be causing the extra spitting.

 
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Another pic in case it shows something. I looked down the barrel through the cylinders and I don't see any misalignment.
How old is your 66? Finish has a bit of a "shine" to it. Can't really tell if it's polished "blue" or SS. My new 66 in matte SS doesn't have that gap. The newer 66s don't have the "Taurus" logo rollmarked into the barrel.

I like the aesthetics of the full underlug. Makes the firearm look "beefy". In a functional sense, the full underlug does add weight for balance and if it does solidly contact the frame, certainly provides barrel support. In the case of that gap, that support function is lacking. I don't know how important that is in the grand scheme of things tho.
I don't think that it's normal for that gap to be present but I'm also not sure that there's much to be done about it.
Flex
 

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Mine has a gap right there, but it also "spews" a lot (I get peppered in the face a bit by powder). I bought it used, so to me it's normal.
 

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To the OP, if you look at your 2nd picture, I am seeing a larger gap between barrel and forcing cone
at the bottom than at the top, which would mean the barrel is canted towards the top...................
Would also explain why it is shaving lead............
I would check the gap with some feeler gauges at the top of cyl and cone and at the bottom, see if their is
a difference....................
 

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To the OP, if you look at your 2nd picture, I am seeing a larger gap between barrel and forcing cone
at the bottom than at the top, which would mean the barrel is canted towards the top...................
Would also explain why it is shaving lead............
I would check the gap with some feeler gauges at the top of cyl and cone and at the bottom, see if their is
a difference....................
After reading this post, I went back and looked for the difference in gap between the the top and bottom of the forcing cone-cylinder front interface. The angle of the photo isn't allowing me to fully see the gap the same as Mr Loudviking does. The 'Spewing" that is described in other posts in the thread DOES however allow me to believe that a excessive gap is probable. The gap between the barrel underlug and the front of the frame could also be explained by Mr Loudviking's suggestion that the barrel is canted upward.

Since this defect has probably existed from when the gun was manufactured, I'd guess that the initial shots were all high and that the rear sight has been adjusted to nearly it's lowest position. Something was misaligned when the frame was tapped or the barrel was threaded.
Flex
 

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The slight gap between the ejector rod shroud and the front of the frame is perfectly normal. The shroud is part of the barrel and is cut back a couple of thousandths more than the shoulder on the barrel threads so that it cannot contact the frame and mar the bluing before the barrel shoulder fully seats tightly against the frame as it is torqued into position.

The gap in yours is probably at the upper limit of what is acceptable, but it is not a sign of poor quality control, just manufacturing tolerances. S&W firearms with shrouded ejector rods exhibit the same gap to a greater or lesser degree - even the ones manufactured 50 years ago when everything was hand-fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, it's been a while and I finally got back to the range with this revolver, I thought I'd give an update. I actually did check the gap with feelers, don't remember what the gap size was but it was even at the top and the bottom. The photo I put I know it looked like it was a little bit off, but looking at it now I don't see any difference and like I said the instrument didn't show any difference. No problem today at the range, used the usual semi jacketed hollow point 125 grain +p Remington. Didn't notice anything excessive today. May have just been an odd round, or Maybe on that shot I was paying more attention to the "normal" spray, but today didn't notice any issue. Only put about 50 rounds through it today but all seems pretty normal. I'm honestly glad because I really do like this revolver. I like the feel, the heft, and I find it to be quite accurate.
 

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Glad that all seems good with the 66 ! I hope you continue to have good luck with it.
 
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