[SkidLid]

I've been dyin to do this for yrs. I've never been a reloader but I REALLY want to look inside my bullet. Who all thinks this would b dangerous. I want to take 2 plyers and grasp the bullet with one and the cartride with the other and slowly remove one from the other just so I can take a look inside. I dont think this could cause the internal combustion needed for detonation but, like I said, I'm no re-loader or gunsmith. Anyone?

 

[Dilbertnomore]

The prudent and safe approach is to use the correct tool for the job. Two paths. Use a bullet extractor (looks like a reloading die with teeth) or use my prefered tool, the inertial extractor. It looks like a hammer with a pocket with screw cap on the business end that allows you to hold the cartridge in place and collect the bullet and powder once a few smacks on a hard surface causes the weight of the bullet to pull itself out of the cartridge case. Cost is less than $20 at your friendly local gun shop that sells reloading supplies.

After you complete the bulletectomy you will need to dispose of the powder and primer. The powder will burn (Duh!) but do so in the open putting plenty of distance between you and it when it ignites. The primer is best disposed of by inserting the cartridge (sans bullet and powder) in the appropriate caliber pistol, revolver or rifle chamber and discharging the weapon in a SAFE DIRECTION. It will make a fairly sharp pop and discharge flames and heat out of all proportion to the tiny size of the primer. Do not let anything you care about get involved with the discharge.

 

[SkidLid]

Maybe I'll wait on this one. :

 

[NativeTexan]

If you really have to (nothin' to see in there, but gunpowder), you can buy an inertial bullet puller for under 15 bucks (if it's still that cheap) from Midway. I can't really remember the price, but it wasn't TOO bad if you have a use for such.

I looked it up, you're in luck, it's on sale. No, don't do it any other way. ESPECIALLY don't go grabbin' the rim of a rimfire round with pliers.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=215517

 

[Dilbertnomore]

This procedure is really no big deal. In fact, it is a regular part of reloading if you are even a little ham-handed, as I am on occasion. Just as with anything have to do with firearms, exercise the proper care and don't be afraid to ask questions about anything you don't understand.

 

[NativeTexan]

Just remember, Dilbertnomore doesn't speak for this site and in no way is the site responsible for your actions. ;D

 

[SkidLid]

This is Misses Skidlid....Mr.Skidlid couln't make it. He's in the hospital where they r attempting to remove a 45 round from his forehead. Seems he was doin something to a bullet and a pair of plyers............kiddin folks ;D. I rethought this question, mostly because I don't really want to drop a dime (I'm cheap) on a tool. I guess what I really want to know is elementary.....How big is my bullet? That damn casing prevents me from REALLY knowing. What started me wanting to know was one time I was tryin to explain to a wife (had a couple) how much really goes into the BG and I really didn't have the answer for her. How much of the round sit in the shell? At what point is it crimped? Halfway? A third?

 

[NativeTexan]

Depends on the bullet, weight of the bullet, auto or rimmed revolver round. Auto rounds have a full length taper crimp by necessity since they head space on the forward edge of the case and can't be roll crimped. Most revolver rounds are roll crimped at the crimping groove on the bullet. .38 wadcutters reside entirely within the case where as various round nose, SWC, truncated cone, etc bullets vary in amount of bullet that is seated. Overall length of the loaded round is important and maximum must not be exceeded. In addition to the crimp, most factory loads use a sealant in the bullet pressing operation that prevents moisture from entering and they seal the primer for the same reason. Some rounds, especially military, you can often see a red sealant around the primer. It wouldn't be real easy to pull a bullet, but I suppose with a vice and a pair of pliers it could be done without blowing yourself up if you were careful. I don't recommend it, however. Besides, you'd bugger up the bullet and case pretty bad trying, I'll bet.

If you just wanna compare, what caliber and bullet weight/design? If I load for it, I could take some pix for you. I'd hate to hear you blew your fingers off when you slipped and hit a primer and you didn't have a trigger finger anymore, LOL.

 

[SkidLid]

That would be very good of you, NativeTexan. I would greatly appreciate a visual. Do U load a 230 FMJ? That is the one I am most particularly interested in. A 9mm FMJ 4 the chickipoo.

 

[Steelheart]

Another idea would be to just bring a few gallon mil jugs full of water to the range the next time and shoot a round or two into them. They should retain the bullet (if you use enough jugs, 3 should be fine) and you can show her afterwards. Then you could find online various pictures of expanded hollow points. I think Stephen Camps's site has some nice pics of various bullets in his articles.

Steelheart

 

[NativeTexan]

That would be very good of you, NativeTexan. I would greatly appreciate a visual. Do U load a 230 FMJ? That is the one I am most particularly interested in. A 9mm FMJ 4 the chickipoo.

I have loaded a 220 grain lead round nose in .45ACP, but don't mess with ball. I cast my own. My fave is a 200 grain SWC, though. I'll get something together, today or tonight, to take pix of. In 9mm, I'm a 115 grain JHP guy.

 

[608 racer]

If you want to show what hits the BG to some one - here's a good way. Soak some magazines or newspapers in water overnight - prolly enough to make a pile maybe 18" (30" if you're nervous). Shoot into them and dig out the bullet - hollow points will be opened perfectly (ball will be as tho unfired). We've done this at the gun shop to show customers the different self defence bullets opened.