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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One disgruntled reader talked about accidentially messing up the blueing on his gun. For those who have an intentional desire there is an easy formula. Navel Jelly painted on will liquify almost any blueing I've found.

The purpose for this is preparation for a new coating... i.e., duracoat, etc.

The Navel Jelly is painted on (wear gloves, it is caustic) and then washed off with warm water. The finish will have a dull patina... actually the chemicals are a mild form of parkerizing. This finish will take a new coating and form a bond between the raw metal and the epoxy coating materials.

With a little polishing, you can bring the metal to a bright finish and then either keep it lighly oiled or coated with some clear coating for a nickel looking finish.
 

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I generally recommend Naval Jelly for Bluing Removal instead of just Polishing off of the old Finish, as Metal may be already thin in some places, such as Shotgun Barrels. One nice thing about Naval Jelly is that it will also take out any Rust that may be present.
 

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I bought a sako m39 with just a little finish left on it at a gun show a while back for 40 bucks. We had a birchwood casey gun blueing kit that had a rust/blue remover, and I used that to remove the rest of the blueing. that stuff worked good but I do recomend you use it and the naval jelly in a well ventilated area. That gun blue worked allright, but I was just using it to protect the metal on something I was using for deer season not turn it back into a collector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did I mention rubber gloves? Yea, I did. hydrochloric acid? It will work, just be carefull with all this stuff that it doesn't strip your finger nails off with the bluing!
 
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