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Yes-yes! Can damage carbide dies, brittle, and some have two flash holes. Berdan I think they are called. Boxer-single flash hole.
 

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Flash hole?

I'm looking at buying some Wolf ammo is what this is getting at.
 

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The flash hole is where the spark from the primer goes into the case body to ignite the powder. Some of the steel and military brass have 2 small holes instead of one larger one. Also, some of the primers on steel and military cases have been crimped. They are usually a really big pain to try and remove.
 

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Most of the Russian Wolf Pistol Ammunition is Boxer Primed, and therefore has only one centered Flash-hole in the base of the shell/case. Russian Rifle Ammunition is another matter, and most of it I have seen is Berdan (Two Flash-holes) Primed.

There is plenty of commercial brass to be had, so steel cases are not worth your trouble! And they are very likely to cause you trouble!

The Russian Wolf Polymer Coated Steel cases will require Lubrication for resizing, even with Carbide Dies, to be resized, and even then, they are so brittle, that you may only get one or two reloadings from them.
 

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I've seen a lot of steel cased Wolf .223 with boxer primers. I know some people that reload them, I don't. They seem to shave the jackets off the bullets when I try to seat them.
 

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What I like about Wolf steel case in the SKSs is I can just let 'em fly and not worry where the "brass" lands. :D I've never fired a boxer primed steel case, either, all berdan. I've only fired steel case in my SKSs. They'll eat anything.
 

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I've heard that the green polymer coating on Wolf's steel cases, comes off into the action when it gets hot. Anybody heard this one?
 

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Sound to me like a lot of you a sniffing to much glue.
Never trust a so called expert on a forum as many of them don't know what they are talking about.
Read above posts to prove this.
Shoot often and straight.
Hillbilly Jim
 

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Hillbilly Jim said:
Sound to me like a lot of you a sniffing to much glue.
Never trust a so called expert on a forum as many of them don't know what they are talking about.
Read above posts to prove this.
Your above quotes do not seem very friendly. Maybe you can enlighten the rest of us "rookies" who don't know what we are talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hillbilly Jim said:
Sound to me like a lot of you a sniffing to much glue.
Never trust a so called expert on a forum as many of them don't know what they are talking about.
Read above posts to prove this.
Shoot often and straight.
Hillbilly Jim
Please .... school us.

With such comments, you seem as though you ARE an expert, but have nothing that resembles informative in your post.

Perha[s you should try again??
 

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I've used prob 500 wolf rounds in different guns, breaking in my Ecilpse , Glock 36 and some through my Bushmaster and didn't really have any feed problems and don't reload, so the only issue I'm concerned about is long term transfer of the polymer to the inside of my firearms. Anybody have an answer? (non-sarcastic) I come here to find out from others through communication, things I'd like to learn without being flamed. Always heard there's no such thing as a stupid question.
 

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You are right. I don't have an answer for you though. I wouldn't think there would be much to worry about. I wouldn't see it building up after the initial layer. If anything it would be the buildup that would hurt, but I don't see it building up.
 

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The only firearms I have fired steel case ammo through are my SKSs and all I can say is that I've never had a problem with 'em and they have eaten thousands of rounds of the stuff back when you could buy a 1000 round case for 80 bucks. They've been through lots of Norinco and to a lesser extent Wolf. The coating is there to inhibit corrosion.

One thing, my SKSs are chicom with chrome lined barrels and chambers. Don't know if that would affect things. But, even if some of the polymer were to rub off in the chamber, if you clean your guns after shooting as you should, I don't see how you could run into problems.

So, Hillbilly Jim, you reload steel cases do ya? You must have good arm strength and an unlimited budget for sizing dies, eh? :rolleyes: I'm not sure if you could even size a fired steel case for a rifle even if it had boxer primers. It'd better be bolted down to one HELL of a strong bench! Heaven help ya if you stick a case. :rolleyes:

No, I haven't tried steel case handgun ammo. I mostly shoot reloads. My son-in-law shoots Wolf almost exclusively in his little Makarov with no such polymer problems, though. It just eats 'em up, pretty impressive for a $175 handgun. I want one of those things. :D
 

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Have not had the build-up problem in my Chinese SKS, Egyptian AKM, or Ruger Mini-14, with either Lacquer Coated or Polymer coated Russian Ammunition. However, my cleaning regimen includes swabbing out the chamber with Paint Thinner, taking great care not to get it on anything else, lest my stock finish be degraded/damaged.

I don't, as a rule, use Russian Handgun Ammunition, with the exception of some Silver Bear (Zinc Plated Steel Shell Case), and not much of that. However, if I did use Polymer Coated Handgun Ammunition, I would swab Paint Thinner in the Chamber, for cleaning.
 

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sidekick said:
I've heard that the green polymer coating on Wolf's steel cases, comes off into the action when it gets hot. Anybody heard this one?
The steel cased ammo used to be coated with some sort of a lacquer that could build up in the chambers. The polymer coated ammo isn't supposed to have that problem.

Steelheart
 

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Steelheart said:
The steel cased ammo used to be coated with some sort of a lacquer that could build up in the chambers. The polymer coated ammo isn't supposed to have that problem.
The lacquer coated steel cases also had a habit of sticking in the chambers of some firearms, once the barrel got warm, like my Match Chambered AR15. I have also seen some of the handgun ammunition stick. The newer Polymer Coated Ammunition seems to have done away with that problem. Russian designed Guns have stoutly designed extractors.
 

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Thanks for clearing up what the coating does and doesn't do. I've used about 500 rnds in my Kimber Eclipse and was no problem, but I think I can get this guy in Conroe, who was at the George R. Brown Gun Show this weekend, to build any kind of reloads I want. I'll just use the polymer coated stuff when I have to. I've been firing his reloads at my range, Shooters Station, without knowing it. They worked and were priced just fine.
 

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sidekick said:
I've used prob 500 wolf rounds in different guns, breaking in my Ecilpse , Glock 36 and some through my Bushmaster and didn't really have any feed problems and don't reload, so the only issue I'm concerned about is long term transfer of the polymer to the inside of my firearms. Anybody have an answer? (non-sarcastic) I come here to find out from others through communication, things I'd like to learn without being flamed. Always heard there's no such thing as a stupid question.
I've never heard of anyone having a build up of the polymer coating. I shoot the stuff in my AR without any worries as do other people for short range practice.

My rule of thumb is if the ammo has a lacquer coat it is only to be used in Soviet designed firearms.

Oh, NativeTexan, makarovs are getting difficult to find so if you want one start hunting. Several years back they were around $200 but generally they're over $300 now. Bulgarian and Russian Commercial models might be cheaper than that.

Steelheart
 
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