Taurus Firearm Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Slides cracking in the front, the steel recoil spring wears the front-slide 'loop' seating area, I believe this will occur with any STEEL recoil spring moving around on an ALUMINUM slide, whether it's the original spring or the Lakeline replacement. The Glock 44 has a steel insert in this area, so what is the answer to stop the wear to the inside front of the TX22 slides? A small, thin aluminum washer that would fit into the front of the slide, preventing the steel recoil spring from contacting it? Logically, it's better to replace a small washer every now and then, instead of the slide. Just as long as the washer doesn't also rotate with the recoil spring during firing, but the damage to the slide would definitely be limited with that aluminum washer/aluminum slide contact. Ruger SR22 models don't have this problem but they don't use a wide, flat recoil spring like the TX22 does.

The answer is out there somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
As we discussed in another post the ssguiderod is the way to go with washer incorporated in the guide rod, even though the company sucks! I also think your method of filing the sharp edge of the spring is a good alternative. Lakeland does that for you. Can't understand why Lakeland doesn't stick a washer in there.

If you measure in metric and American the dimensions of the washer needed and googled them you should find a place to buy a bag full for about $3. A small dab of grease at slide end to hold washer while the slide is reassembled, should work great.

You mention in another post that you ordered a guide rod from SS, have you received it yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
The cracking issue is caused by the slide hitting the frame. You will see battered plastic frames if you have a cracked slide. The longer spring was supposed to help that by keeping the lower part of the slide from hitting the frame and distributing the load up higher on the slide by having the spring be what the slide bottoms out against during recoil.

It doesn't help to have the frame get chewed up by a sharp spring. We do grind our springs to prevent the stress concentration that occurs at the bitter end of the spring. But, a washer by itself doesn't solve it. The washer will bend and still provide a stress concentration at the end of the spring if the spring isn't ground. One other thing that you can do as an operator is to orient the recoil spring so the end of it is up at the top of the slide, so it is on the strongest part of the slide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Al, I'm familiar with your products. As a matter of fact I just ordered a optic mount for my TX22 yesterday. The ssguiderod people (whom I will never deal with again) have a machined washer with an inner shoulder that centers itself in the guide rod hole in slide and also recesses the screw that holds it together. BUT, The spring was so strong it wouldn't cycle either of my TX22's. I chopped about 1.25 inch off both and now both guns function well. I have no frame gouging on either. The oldest one has some slide gouges at the guide rod hole from the sharp spring end.

My problem with SS is when I emailed and called multiple times they never responded, Others here has same result. Thanks for your input on these forums.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mention in another post that you ordered a guide rod from SS, have you received it yet?
Expected delivery is on Friday, June 25.

But, a washer by itself doesn't solve it. The washer will bend and still provide a stress concentration at the end of the spring if the spring isn't ground.
But I could disassemble it and grind down the edge at the end of the spring to equalize the pressure against the inside of the washer, right? Then I've got the same pressure all the way around the inside of the washer, and all the way around the slide 'loop', where the recoil spring sits...I'll have to measure the amount of slide travel to the rear with the new recoil spring vs. the upgraded Taurus OEM spring with the extra coils, to ensure it won't hit the frame at full recoil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
875 Posts
Sure, but if you grind down the end of the spring, the washer isn't doing anything. So, what's the point?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sure, but if you grind down the end of the spring, the washer isn't doing anything. So, what's the point?
Recoil spring rotates during firing. That buttonhead washer prevents the steel spring from rubbing on the aluminum slide and wearing it out. Also no sharp edges of the spring contacting the slide.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, received the recoil spring assembly from ssguiderods.com and tested the compression against the newer, updated recoil spring from Taurus (the one with the extra coils on top)....it's definitely stopping the slide before it goes back far enough to batter the frame...

Pulled back to full recoil with the Taurus spring, marked with tape and then cut, removed slide and installed the ssguiderods.com recoil spring, you can see the slide doesn't go back as far -



479885
 

·
Registered
G2c PT145 MilPro
Joined
·
339 Posts
Okay, received the recoil spring assembly from ssguiderods.com and tested the compression against the newer, updated recoil spring from Taurus (the one with the extra coils on top)....it's definitely stopping the slide before it goes back far enough to batter the frame...

Pulled back to full recoil with the Taurus spring, marked with tape and then cut, removed slide and installed the ssguiderods.com recoil spring, you can see the slide doesn't go back as far -



View attachment 479885
Looks like almost a 1/4". Will it still cycle okay?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Looks like almost a 1/4". Will it still cycle okay?
It's much less than that...maybe 1/8, even less...took it to the range today, ran like a top, definitely feels tighter/harder to rack but no performance issues...

Here's the first sixteen-round magazine at 21' away (using the Lakeline LLC fiber optic sights I installed a few days ago, very happy with their accuracy)

479894


...and here's 64 rounds rapid fire at 21'...everything in the red...
479895
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Slides cracking in the front, the steel recoil spring wears the front-slide 'loop' seating area, I believe this will occur with any STEEL recoil spring moving around on an ALUMINUM slide, whether it's the original spring or the Lakeline replacement. The Glock 44 has a steel insert in this area, so what is the answer to stop the wear to the inside front of the TX22 slides? A small, thin aluminum washer that would fit into the front of the slide, preventing the steel recoil spring from contacting it? Logically, it's better to replace a small washer every now and then, instead of the slide. Just as long as the washer doesn't also rotate with the recoil spring during firing, but the damage to the slide would definitely be limited with that aluminum washer/aluminum slide contact. Ruger SR22 models don't have this problem but they don't use a wide, flat recoil spring like the TX22 does.

The answer is out there somewhere.
Steel washer imbedded in the aluminum slide where the recoil spring rides?

Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The cracking issue is caused by the slide hitting the frame. You will see battered plastic frames if you have a cracked slide. The longer spring was supposed to help that by keeping the lower part of the slide from hitting the frame and distributing the load up higher on the slide by having the spring be what the slide bottoms out against during recoil.

It doesn't help to have the frame get chewed up by a sharp spring. We do grind our springs to prevent the stress concentration that occurs at the bitter end of the spring. But, a washer by itself doesn't solve it. The washer will bend and still provide a stress concentration at the end of the spring if the spring isn't ground. One other thing that you can do as an operator is to orient the recoil spring so the end of it is up at the top of the slide, so it is on the strongest part of the slide.
I understand what you're saying....I'll have to remove the spring and taper it down in order to get rid of that open space between the spring and the 'buttonhead washer', as seen here highlighted in yellow, so more of the spring contacts that side of the washer -

479953
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
TX22 recoil spring assembly from ssguiderods.com after I ground both ends...should be an even distribution of pressure all the way around the front of the washer and slide now.

479971
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I'm sure that won't hurt anything but I don't see a necessity for it. The washer is hardened and shouldn't score?

I also think SSG must have changed the spring, Both of my TX's didn't cycle with them. Working find now that I chopped them.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,035 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I'm sure that won't hurt anything but I don't see a necessity for it. The washer is hardened and shouldn't score?

I also think SSG must have changed the spring, Both of my TX's didn't cycle with them. Working find now that I chopped them.
That washer is stainless steel but I'm trying to get equal pressure from the spring all the way around the inside of the washer. Keeping the sharp edge creates a little empty space between the spring and the washer, grinding the spring down decreases the amount of that empty space, provides more spring-to-washer contact area all the way around.

Says they use an 11-lb spring on their guide rods, I'm trying to figure out what the OEM spring tension is....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
That washer is stainless steel but I'm trying to get equal pressure from the spring all the way around the inside of the washer. Keeping the sharp edge creates a little empty space between the spring and the washer, grinding the spring down decreases the amount of that empty space, provides more spring-to-washer contact area all the way around.

Says they use an 11-lb spring on their guide rods, I'm trying to figure out what the OEM spring tension is....
How many rounds have you got on the SSG set up? Still happy with it? Any signs of the frame getting hit with the slide?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Doc was flagged from this forum but, I have the SSG in both my TX's. It is a tad better than others simply because they put a washer in front of the spring, the washer contacts the slide, can't get a better seat on the slide. There is no chance the slide will get gouged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Doc was flagged from this forum but, I have the SSG in both my TX's. It is a tad better than others simply because they put a washer in front of the spring, the washer contacts the slide, can't get a better seat on the slide. There is no chance the slide will get gouged.
Thanks. Too bad about Doc, seems like he contributed alot.
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top