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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

I ordered this surplus 82 from SOG. In cases like that I am a bit nervous not knowing what you get, but SOG was always fair with me. This time it was no different.
As you can see from the picture the gun has lots of wearing on the blue and the grips are 3 yards away from the trash can. There are no major dings inthe metal. Some scratching and a couple of dings. Nothing that the sand paper won't cure. Mechanically my gun seems to be in a vey good condition. The triger is better than on my new M327. The cylinder locks sort of tight when I cock the hammer. Overall I think the gun is worth the money. I am planning to get a nice set of grips and redo the blue on the whole fun using the stump-remover technique.
I am taking the gun to the range right now. After that I will add more pictures and we will discuss the gun accuracy. Oh yeah. Almost forgot. I have a feeling this gun was never or rearly shot at all. I spent good hour cleaning it last night and the dry patchs were coming out clear after using Hopps #9.



Cheers,
Mad
 

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I'm not familiar with the Stomp-remover technique, please enlighten me.

I'm sure you will find the revolver quite accurate.
 

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Looks like a great utility revolver !!!!!!

When I was looking for a Surplus 82 is when I found this..


 

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The price is appealing so I’m giving these a second look. Question: Do they use a transfer bar or is the firing pin attached to the hammer?

By the way Buckeye is your 82 SS or plated?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So I went to the range. The gun shoots a few inches to the right and up. I do not know if it is me. I have the same problem with my M327. There was a problem I discovered. about 75% of the time i cannot cock the hammer or in DA the trigger won't pull. Sometimes cocking 3 times will help or rocking/spinning the cylinder left-right by hand will release the action. Sometimes it does not happen at all till I reload the cylinder. Any ideas? A weak spring maybe somewhere? Anyway. I am pleased with the gun so far. I am sure load tuning will give me 2" or less groups at 25 yards from the table rest. Please see the results below. All shot at 25 yards, single action:

1. Table rest. POA - the white cup. Winchester 130 gr (white box from Wal-Mart). 20 shots, 5 1/4" group.


2. Same ammo. Right-hand stance. The group is about 11".


3. Same ammo. Two hand stance. 5 shots. 4 1/4" group.


4. Table rest. Homemade Lee 150gr bullet. Wheel weights. Followed by 4gr of BlueDot. Here you can see 2 groups. Top - 15 shots 3 3/4". Bottom - 10 shots 2 5/8".


Cheers,
Mad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not familiar with the Stomp-remover technique, please enlighten me.
Sorry. I meant to say stump-remover. It's some kind of salt. You can pick it up at Wal-Mart, Home Depot or a similar store in the gardening section.



The steps are basic. I did this on some parts on one of my Marlins. I think I did the lever and the trigger plate (not sure exactly what it is called). Some other parts as well.

1. Remove old bluing and rust from parts
2. Repair the surface if needed.
3. Polish if needed.
4. Degrease the surface
5. Melt the stump-remover salt in a metal container made of metal other than steel (something that does not rust I guess). Make sure that the container will fit your parts.
6. Once the salt is melted place the parts in the container so they are fully covered by the liquid. Make sure that the container is on constant fire. I used the kitchen stove.
7. Let the parts cook in the container for a while (I forgot for how long).
8. Remove the parts from the container and rinse.
9. Coat with oil and let settle for 24 hours.

These are my instructions. The first time I heard about this process was on the Marlin Firearms Forum forum. Give them a go. Search there and I am sure you will find how long the parts need to sit in the salt. I just do not have time right now. Sorry.
My parts came out nice and the finish is very resistant.

Cheers,
Mad
 

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Never heard of using potassium nitrate for that.
Fireworks or cheap rocket fuel.
 

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The price is appealing so I’m giving these a second look. Question: Do they use a transfer bar or is the firing pin attached to the hammer?

By the way Buckeye is your 82 SS or plated?
I'm waiting on the guns arrival..I'm pretty sure it is what Taurus used to call 'Satin Finished'..which is brushed nickle ...but they did make a few SS 80 models..I'll know when I look at the crane mark , Stainless 80's where marked 80SS ..now I read that somewhere so ..I'm not positive
 

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I wonder how much a smith would charge to lop off about an inch of barrel and put a new fixed sight on the front.....these are great guns for doing that kind of thing with. I'd even consider making it a round butt configuration, not sure if that's do-able or not though.

Congrats !
 

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I remember hearing of a "Salt Technique " a few years back at a LGS ..but I didn't have a clue what he was talking about....

If you don't care to post Pictures and inform us of the project..it would be appreciated by myself and all the other listeners here in radio land !!!
I had a little rust'um custom (actually a old Charter) a while back that I traded off that would have made a great project gun...for the "salt technique"
 

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I wonder how much a smith would charge to lop off about an inch of barrel and put a new fixed sight on the front.....these are great guns for doing that kind of thing with. I'd even consider making it a round butt configuration, not sure if that's do-able or not though.

Congrats !
That was my plan..I think a while on a grinder you could make a custom ,Round Butt,Gun smiths in this area are few and $$$$ when you find 'em..I sometimes have fellows at machine shops ,do modifications on some of my firearms...I've had rifles D&T'ed ,broken bolt handles repaired , and bolt handles bent for scope clearance ,and barrels bobbed and crowned on old Milsurps and such...they usually do it on there time for a good price...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think this is similar to the bluing process I was talking about:


Is 650F too hot and can temper the hardness of the gun?

Cheers,
Mad
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Another observation. These South-American service revolvers have lots of pitting all over, but not the barrel. It is not that well noticable with the finish on, but once I took the finish off some of the parts, I can see pitting all over. Not sure I will be able to sand and buff it off the gun as well as I thought, but let's see. Maybe rebluing will hide some of that stuff. Time will show and the project started. I will create a separate thread for anyone who is interested on the progress.

Cheers,
Mad
 

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Forgive my ignorance, guys, but what is SOG? I did a google search and came up with a couple poosibilities, but nothing certain.
Can anyone order a handgun from them?
Thanks,
Dennis
 

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So I went to the range. The gun shoots a few inches to the right and up. I do not know if it is me. I have the same problem with my M327. There was a problem I discovered. about 75% of the time i cannot cock the hammer or in DA the trigger won't pull. Sometimes cocking 3 times will help or rocking/spinning the cylinder left-right by hand will release the action. Sometimes it does not happen at all till I reload the cylinder. Any ideas? A weak spring maybe somewhere? Cheers,
Mad
Seems we got twins or something. Mine was hitting about 2-3" to the right at 7 yds and it would randomly bind up in DA mode. It would jam up just before the hammer was supposed to release. Let off the trigger and pull again and most of the time that would solve it but I would still have a round in the cylinder that hadn't been fired. It has yet to do that on an empty cylinder. I am planning on digging into the internals and scrubbing them clean and lubing them to see if that helps.
 
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