[mwj999]

OK, so I managed to break the transfer bar on my Taurus 327 while dry firing, with snap caps, believe it or not.:???: I know that I could send it back to Miami for forty to seventy bucks, but it was a $230 gun. Given the option, I'd much rather spend ten or fifteen bucks mail ordering a new transfer bar and replacing it myself, if only Taurus would sell me one, but Taurus couldn't possibly entrust such a complex task to any of us lesser mortals.:icon_rolleyes: Does anyone know of a transfer bar made for a Smith (or other manufacturer's) small frame revolver that might be interchangeable and actually available? I don't care about voiding the warranty. It's too expensive to use.

 

[chicharrones]

Old Taurus' have a hammer block designed like the S&W hammer block. Taurus revolvers made in the last decade or so do not have a hammer block, but do have the transfer bar.

I'm pretty sure Ruger's transfer bars won't work in a Taurus either.

You can see the S&W hammer block on step 16 here. http://www.buildanark.net/index.php?pages/Smith%20&%20Wesson%20J%20Frame%20Spring%20Upgrade.html

 

[mwj999]

Thanks, chicharrones. It doesn't look as if the Smith hammer block will work. The hammer block for a Charter Arms revolver looks as if it might work, though I'm only looking at this diagram rather than the actual part. I don't know whether anyone else has tried one.

I could try mending my transfer bar with JB Weld, or duct tape , or maybe trying to get a buddy to TIG weld it. If none of that works out, then the 327 either gets shipped back to Miami (at great expense ) or becomes an expensive paperweight.

 

[mwj999]

I called Taurus Customer Service, and they offered me the option of sending the 327 back in (at my expense) or selling me a transfer bar for $6.74 including shipping. I bought the transfer bar. So Taurus will sell some internal parts, but not others. Me not understand, Kemo Sabe.