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Hello, I am new to reloading, and before I start buying primers I would like to know if Winchester Large Pistol Primers #7 are what I should use. If not what is a good non-corrosive nickel plated primer?

I'll be reloading 45 Colt 220 grain solid monolithic copper bullets into Nickel plated brass, @ 900 fps. through a stock SS Taurus Judge Magnum, as my every day carry rounds.

Cost is of little concern to me, performance and reliability is what I am looking for.
 

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the reloading data that you are following should include the type of primer needed, some powders require (or it recommended) to use Magnum primers but thats dependent on the powder type.
typically Winchester primers are listed as good regardless of the powder type if i remember correctly.
 
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When in doubt, FOLLOW THE RECIPE IN THE MANUAL.

The loads published have been tested, using the components indicated, in a real ballistics lab utilizing equipment far beyond what all but a handful of reloaders have access to. Pressures listed were measured- not guesstimated from how 'flat' the primer looks- by equipment designed to take the measurement.

If it calls for Magnum primers, then use magnum primers. If it doesn't, then don't.
 

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When in doubt, FOLLOW THE RECIPE IN THE MANUAL.

The loads published have been tested, using the components indicated, in a real ballistics lab utilizing equipment far beyond what all but a handful of reloaders have access to. Pressures listed were measured- not guesstimated from how 'flat' the primer looks- by equipment designed to take the measurement.

If it calls for Magnum primers, then use magnum primers. If it doesn't, then don't.
I would not answer any more questions from this guy. He wants quick answers but none of the work to research. He is an accident lookin for someone to sue.
 

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I would not answer any more questions from this guy. He wants quick answers but none of the work to research. He is an accident lookin for someone to sue.
He gets the same kind of answers from me that any other new reloader will get. I'll talk technique all day and give general advice like 'look it up in the manual and do with the book says but I don't give out load data- that's why I suggest some sort of Black Powder when somebody asks, "What powder should I get to do X."

First, it's a smart alecky answer that folks write off as such and will not take seriously and, second, if they do take it seriously, you really can't stuff enough BP in a case to hurt a modern gun.

I've seen folks use a 4 foot drop tube to get as much FFFg as possible in a .45 Colt and then compress it to seat the bullet. He was able to get a full 40 gr of FFFg in a modern solid head case (the original cases were balloon head, so there's not supposed to be enough room for more than 35-38gr- depending on what exactly you are using- under a 250gr bullet). He was literally filling the cases to the case mouth and then seating the bullet. He was also bouncing knockdowns back upright after knocking them down and his shots were screwing with the timers on adjacent bays but it still wasn't going to generate enough pressure to endanger a modern gun.

On the other hand, smokeless information is really easy to misread or misunderstand. On top of that, even good information will give the 'extrapolators' a place to start so they can start figuring that if A is true, then B should be, too. The problem is, ammunition pressures don't follow a predictable, linear path. It may be predictable for a while but then it just stops doing what you expect. That, by the way, is true at both the low and upper end of the powder range.
 

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you seem to be over thinking all this , why don`t you just get a .44 magnum . ( and yes i`ve been loading and
shooting .45lc`s in ruger blackhawks and tc contenders for a long, long time )
 
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He gets the same kind of answers from me that any other new reloader will get. I'll talk technique all day and give general advice like 'look it up in the manual and do with the book says but I don't give out load data- that's why I suggest some sort of Black Powder when somebody asks, "What powder should I get to do X."

First, it's a smart alecky answer that folks write off as such and will not take seriously and, second, if they do take it seriously, you really can't stuff enough BP in a case to hurt a modern gun.

I've seen folks use a 4 foot drop tube to get as much FFFg as possible in a .45 Colt and then compress it to seat the bullet. He was able to get a full 40 gr of FFFg in a modern solid head case (the original cases were balloon head, so there's not supposed to be enough room for more than 35-38gr- depending on what exactly you are using- under a 250gr bullet). He was literally filling the cases to the case mouth and then seating the bullet. He was also bouncing knockdowns back upright after knocking them down and his shots were screwing with the timers on adjacent bays but it still wasn't going to generate enough pressure to endanger a modern gun.

On the other hand, smokeless information is really easy to misread or misunderstand. On top of that, even good information will give the 'extrapolators' a place to start so they can start figuring that if A is true, then B should be, too. The problem is, ammunition pressures don't follow a predictable, linear path. It may be predictable for a while but then it just stops doing what you expect. That, by the way, is true at both the low and upper end of the powder range.
I guess I replied in the wrong place. I was not questioning your BP loads or your post. I was just giving out my public service warning about someone wanting to take shortcuts in reloading, while riding on someone elses back. I shot a 45 LC Blackhawk for a couple years. Had to sell it when I lost my job. I never tried blackpowder in it. I diid though, reload once fireds and also new cases. I never bought a store bought round. But I did read a lot before I bought powder and bullets for it and never had a problem. My position on this is that I personally would not stick my neck out and instruct a newbie if the newbie didn't show an effort to do the research. Especially when he is trying to match factory specs in one gun model, when the specs were generated in a totally different model.
I'll butt out. No offense intended.
 
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