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Discussion Starter #1
Don't know whether this should be under Reloads or the 24/7 Forum....so I'll leave it to the moderators! We'll start here:

I've got two buddies that reload for EVERY caliber that exists. We do a lot of shooting together and I'm tired of having to go to wally world twice a week to see if they
have any .45 paper puncher loads in stock...and then take it up the rear to buy them out. So the question is: Does anyone have a proven load that the 24/7 G2's will
eat consistently w/out problems. The main guy that'll be doing them for me is a sig/1911 guy so he won't know where to start really. I'll be buying the bullets and primers
and supplying my own brass (from all the boxes I've bought from the wally world). I just want to know what works before I order 2000 bullets/primers. Thanks!
 

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Any thing that his Sig will use your 24/7 should like also. I shoot the same loads in my RIA Tactical 45 and my 24/7 OSS DS in 45. I would try some of his fav's and see how your's runs. I also run the same 40 cal paper puncher loads in my Mil Pro and my 24/7 OSS DS 40 SW.
 

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Normally, this thread does belong in the Reloading Section, but I'll leave it here to start for a bit.

No G2's here, but as I load for several .45's, my loads are concocted to work in all that I have. Contrary to popular belief, most Semi-Auto's are not really that finicky about the loads they will use, or so has been my experience. What will work in your friends Sig and 1911 should also work in your 24/7 G2. My .45 24/7 OSS feeds and fires everything! Even little 185 grn SWC's which give other Auto's fits. Your G2 should be as omnivorous!

For general Target use, I run 5.2 grains of Alliant Red Dot under either a Berry's 200 grain Plated Flat Point or Hard Cast 200 grain Flat Point. Makes USPSA Major Power Factor. 4.7 grains of Alliant Red Dot under a Cast 230 grn RN or Flat Point works very well, too! Used to use that same charge (4.7 grains of Alliant Red Dot) under Rainier plated 230 grn RN's as well and it will also work with Berry's 230 grain Plated RN.

My choice of Primers is usually Winchester, Federal, or Magtech, Large Pistol and the above loads will work well with any of these.
 

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Since the PT845 is considered very similar to the 24/7 G2, I'll jump in here.

I have a friend who loaded up some .45ACP in 200gr SWC. My PT845 has cycled more than a hundred of them with no hiccups at all.

My son's PT845, on the other hand, can't get through even one magazine without a few FTFeed, FTEject. Yet commercial 230gr cycles through his pistol with no problems at all.

We think the problem may be in his recoil spring (could be stiffer/stronger) but have not yet had a chance to test our theory by swapping them out.

Bottom line: the only way to know what will work for you is to shoot the greatest variety you can.
 

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I reload 9 mm and am stil learning, but I was under the impression that FTFeed was usually a COAL/bullet nose shape/feedramp issue and FTE was usually a recoil spring/powder charge issue. Could someone help me out? Thanks.

BTW, I'm finding that the same loads I developed with my OSS work fine in both my 24/7 G2 and Ruger LC9, but they are just paper punching loads, nothing exotic.
 

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a good quality reload should work as well or better than a factory load in the 45 acp, don't matter what manufatcure the gun is.
I shoot the same 200 grain plated reload in 6 differrent 1911's, a 24/7 OSS and a 24/7 C pro D/S and it runs fine in all of them. just find a good medium powered load in a manual and go at it, if anything the gun will be picky about the shape of the projectile, not likely the power if you use the reloading manual.
Not knocking your friend or reloading buddy but If proficient in the art he really should know this!
 

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I reload 9 mm and am stil learning, but I was under the impression that FTFeed was usually a COAL/bullet nose shape/feedramp issue and FTE was usually a recoil spring/powder charge issue. Could someone help me out? Thanks.
well kinda!
but you can get to the low end of the power band and the slide will recoil and eject but not travel far enough rearward to pick up the next round from the magazine, and as the recoil spring stores energy to move the slide forward after recoil a light load can be short on energy and not pick up the round fast/hard enough from the magazine to feed it up the ramp.
Interestingly enough I have a 3 inch barreled 9 MM that the first scenario happened, while the round worked perfectly in 3 other 9MM with slighly longer barrels.
I figured thta the burn rate of the powder was right at the point that this occurred about 5% of the time, this was with rnage ammo now.
I changed to a faster burn rate powder and the problem went away.
MY other more scientific explanation of what was happening was GREMLINS!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess specifically I'm wondering what the best type of bullet to use would be...at least to start out. Should I stick with plated bullets or what? Again....this first batch is mostly for paper-punching to begin with. Thanks so far guys! I have to be more specific on this type of stuff to start with...sorry!
 

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Opinions--opinions-opinions!!
we all have them.
I lean to plated projectiles as paper punchers, but a jacketed or hard cast projectile would be a consideration for me as well.
as long as I don't have to clean a bunch of lead out of the bore I can live with it.
of course jacketed is going to be most expensive of the 3 , plated likey the middle of the road with a lot less mess.
also with cast many times you have a lot of smoke from the bullet lube and as I shoot at an idoor range 99% of the time thats a problem.
its a personal choice.
 

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Take a look at Precision Delta jacketed bullets. I shoot them in 9mm and can buy them for the same price as Berry's plated bullets, but Berry's has more bullet styles available. Powder Valley has the lowest prices I've seen on Berry's (but I think you pay shipping).
 

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Take a look at Precision Delta jacketed bullets. I shoot them in 9mm and can buy them for the same price as Berry's plated bullets, but Berry's has more bullet styles available. Powder Valley has the lowest prices I've seen on Berry's (but I think you pay shipping).
Yes, you will pay shipping and that should be figured into your costs. I'm using mostly Berry's Plated Bullets these days. Used to use some Bullets from a local Bullet Caster, but he's now out of business. Jacketed can also be a good way to go if you can buy them at a good price! Montana Gold Bullets have been great too, but I can still get Berry's cheaper from TJ Conevera.

TJCONEVERA.COM

Montana Gold Bullet, Incorporated - Kalispell, Montana
 

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I have a 9mm g2 and have run 800 out of the 1000 reloads i bought through it with 1 ftf. The guy who loads for me uses winnie everything primer powder case and lead bullets i just run a few fmj before i leave the range to clean it out.
 

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I guess specifically I'm wondering what the best type of bullet to use would be...at least to start out. Should I stick with plated bullets or what? Again....this first batch is mostly for paper-punching to begin with. Thanks so far guys! I have to be more specific on this type of stuff to start with...sorry!
I have found that plated lead bullets leave much more lead than moly coated ones. I stick to moly coated for range practice and plinking now. I run FMJ through every now and then but never mix shooting them and coated lead without cleaning up all the fouling (however minimal) first.
 

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I’m using a 4” barrel first generation 24/7. I wanted to cut down a bit on recoil so I’m shooing three types of 200 grain bullets; Speer Gold Dot, Rainier plated flat point, and Lee semi-wadcutter tumble lube cast from straight wheelweight alloy and sized at .452”. To cut down on muzzle flash and blast I’m using Accurate Arms #2 which is a relatively fast powder on a par with Bullseye. I’m loading them all to a COAL of 1.200”. Brass is Remington and primers are CCI 300. Using very light to moderate loads running from 650 FPS to 850 FPS I’ve had no problems with feeding or ejecting.
 

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I have found that plated lead bullets leave much more lead than moly coated ones. I stick to moly coated for range practice and plinking now. I run FMJ through every now and then but never mix shooting them and coated lead without cleaning up all the fouling (however minimal) first.
DBMMD, please help me understand you comment about barrel leading from plated bullets. I ask because I have significant leading in my Model 65 revolver with lead bullets which is the reason I changed to plated bullets. I have not tried moly coated lead bullets, so I don't know if I would have leading with them, but I definitely don't see any leading with the plated bullets. Unless the plating is stripped off because they are pushed too hard, I don't understand how any leading could occur. Thanks.
 
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