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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, i'm new here, i am from Europe and been reading this forum for a long time, but now i decided to sign up just to share some of my concerns about this gun. Maybe i complicate too much and is all ok, but i still can't stop worry about this.
A month ago i bought new RB 444 in 6.5". After intial excitment about having such a nice revolver, i was starting to check the gun in details with a flashlight. And i'm kinda worried. I put some photos on. Tbh, i'm a bit of pissed of about sloppy machine work. The most obvious things is the left side of the forcing cone. I mean is this level of sloppiness with barrel fitting in the shroud normal for Taurus flagship model post 2000 or so, when QC stepped up alot? Is this normal or should i worry?
I took aprox 50 rounds of 240 grs sjsp through my bull and it seemed all ok so far. But then there are these drag marks and signs of worn cylinder notches that also bothers me. This is new gun, it only has 50 shots. Cylinder has also a noticeable side wiggle in "rest mode" and very minimal wiggle in full lockup mode. As for end shake play it is somewhere between 0.006 and even 0.008 (if i really try to force the feeler gauge in).
Sorry for being so long and excuse my bad english.
What do you guys think of all this? Am i just complicating too much, or is my new bull calling for gunsmith? I can post more pics if needed.
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I have to say that I've never seen a Taurus that sloppy before. I mean, I've heard it from others, but always assumed that they were exaggerating because my experience with Taurus has been better, albeit limited.

My Taurus Judge Magnum is fit much nicer than that, with only a few minor tool marks inside the frame and lack of finish beneath the grips. Furthermore, I have had no such issues with play in the cylinder, which locks up tight with no discernible play whatsoever.

That being said, I would be more concerned with function than fit/finish, so as long as it runs well, I'd probably sooner learn to live with the cosmetic imperfections than deal with Taurus Customer Service. However, if it bothers you that much, then I would see about returning it to the dealer and requesting either a replacement, a refund, or at least that they make it right by dealing with Taurus on my behalf, sooner than I would contact Taurus myself.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate your reply. So far it functions ok, bit i only shot about 50 mid tier roinds through it. I will see for sure after i send a couple of boxes of 300 grainers down the range. As for cylinder lockup, it has almost no play in full lockup mode, but when trigger and hammer at rest, it has some play.
If i'd worry about fit and finish, i'd go with colt anaconda lol, bit i only care about performance.
Unfortunately, here in Europe we have no Taurus customer service like in US, we only rely on the store where it has been bought. But they might just say that as long as it shoots fine, there's no reason to replace/repair. We'll see.
But i did look up alot of revolver forcing cones over the internet today and i found alot of pretty sloppy fitted barrels even with rugers and smiths. Here's one example with S&W 👇
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I don't see anything concerning. The things to really watch for on the forcing cone are the face and the inside. The machining on those surfaces look fine. The gap between the barrel and the frame is inconsequential. As long as the fit between the barrel and frame is good on the actual bearing surface, the bit of breakout at the surface of the frame is never going to matter.

BTW: Welcome to the crew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for reply MadKaw! I kinda wrote off this cone thing. Even tho there are slightly inconsistent end gap measures, more on the right side, less on the left. But now i'm discovering other things. Like cylinder play and slightly "crooked barrel". Pics below. It doesnt seem so crooked, but more like the left side of a metal being mismatched to the right and unevenly filed off. I don't know what to think. I am really sad and depressed. I was so happy when i first got the bull, but now i'm afraid i got a lemon. I don't care much about minor cosmetic imperfections, i only want it to shoot accurate what was designed for.
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Believe it or not, I have a Ruger SP101 with a worse cockeyed barrel than what you show in your bottom pic. Never wanted to bother sending it back because of having to hassle with CS.
 

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It's hard to evaluate cylinder play without hands-on, but some is not only normal but necessary. There is some play even during lock-up. When not locked don't worry at all. The way I would tell you to evaluate the play is to see how it effects timing. That is how the cylinder lines up with the barrel when the gun fires. Again, there is always some variation, if nothing else than because there are multiple cylinders. It's not just a matter of manufacturers tolerance, but also that the gun must function as it heats and cools. Parts are going to expand at different rates, and behave differently under pressure. You've got to allow for that. If I were you, I would look at how the gun shaves bullets. All revolvers shave some material as the bullet if pressed into the forcing cone. Basically you are swaging the bullet from the diameter of the cylinder down to the diameter of the barrel. If the deposits are light and even around the barrel, you're golden (well, at least if you're shooting brass coated bullets. If they're lead, I guess you'd have to say you're silver...) And even there, don't be too persnickety, you're only looking at a diagnostic tool. The ultimate test is how the durn thing shoots. None of what you have described points to any maintenance issues.
Barrel placement? If the front sight is vertical, you're fine.

Thanks for reply MadKaw! I kinda wrote off this cone thing. Even tho there are slightly inconsistent end gap measures, more on the right side, less on the left. But now i'm discovering other things. Like cylinder play and slightly "crooked barrel". Pics below. It doesnt seem so crooked, but more like the left side of a metal being mismatched to the right and unevenly filed off. I don't know what to think. I am really sad and depressed. I was so happy when i first got the bull, but now i'm afraid i got a lemon. I don't care much about minor cosmetic imperfections, i only want it to shoot accurate what was designed for. View attachment 482047 View attachment 482048 . 😢
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's hard to evaluate cylinder play without hands-on, but some is not only normal but necessary. There is some play even during lock-up. When not locked don't worry at all. The way I would tell you to evaluate the play is to see how it effects timing. That is how the cylinder lines up with the barrel when the gun fires. Again, there is always some variation, if nothing else than because there are multiple cylinders. It's not just a matter of manufacturers tolerance, but also that the gun must function as it heats and cools. Parts are going to expand at different rates, and behave differently under pressure. You've got to allow for that. If I were you, I would look at how the gun shaves bullets. All revolvers shave some material as the bullet if pressed into the forcing cone. Basically you are swaging the bullet from the diameter of the cylinder down to the diameter of the barrel. If the deposits are light and even around the barrel, you're golden (well, at least if you're shooting brass coated bullets. If they're lead, I guess you'd have to say you're silver...) And even there, don't be too persnickety, you're only looking at a diagnostic tool. The ultimate test is how the durn thing shoots. None of what you have described points to any maintenance issues.
Barrel placement? If the front sight is vertical, you're fine.
Thanks for your reply. Just one more thing. Take a look at this photo. It looks like my new bull has a "finish" like those lottery tickets that you can just scratch off lol. Believe it or not, if i stratch this ugly grey looking thing with my fingernail, it comes off. No joke. Is everyone bull's like this? I got to say i'm absolutely shocked. Coming from S&W and Ruger, i am not used to this kind of low quality finish. I once had a taurus M44, the vintage .44 and it had a nice S&W-like finish. And that was model 1999 mind you. But this new bull, supposely being a newest model (imported in Europe in 2019) has an absolutely worst finish i've ever seen on a handgun. I am sooo dissapointed. If i find out other people's bulls aren't like this, i'll send it back for sure. But if all bulls are like that, i might just learn to live with it and polish it to high gloss.
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If you're looking at the stuff along the inside edge... looks like residue from the test rounds. Give it a good cleaning and enjoy. The question remains... how does it shoot?
BTW: Taurus does not warranty finish.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you're looking at the stuff along the inside edge... looks like residue from the test rounds. Give it a good cleaning and enjoy. The question remains... how does it shoot?
BTW: Taurus does not warranty finish.
No i meant those white patches that stand out of this grey colour "finish". Believe it or not i've managed to scratch one little patch easily just with my nails to test it.
The gun now has about 80 shots. So far it seems ok at the range. I will now for sure when i get a hold of some jacketed bullets, since the golden coating will stand out more than lead on the forcing cone. I will report and post pics.

As for the finish and some other stuff (cylinder play) it is way worse than on my other revolvers.
I'd be happy if other RB owners would comment on this "finish" that seems to scratch off like the lottery ticket.
 

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You've got a nice revolver there. I don't see anything at all that worries me functionally. I checked a couple of my Taurus stainless revolvers, and they have very similar imperfections - if you look close enough. And they are cosmetic, not a functional issue at all.

Finally, regarding the finish and your recoil shield photo (the last photo), my revolvers that I checked had some similar marks around the firing pin. As for scratching off the finish, a stainless revolver does not have a finish the way a blued or cerakoted firearm does. A stainless has the same metal composition from the very surface down into the bulk of the metal. The "finish" is just bead blasting or brushing to give it a consistent appearance. So if you're scratching something off with your fingernail (which absolutely would make one wonder, generally speaking), I tend to think it's either material from the rounds that have been shot, or oil/lubricant residue.

Give it a good cleaning, inside and out, then before the final oily rag wipe*, see if you can scratch anything off. Not just on the recoil shield area, either - how about the barrrel? Topstrap above the cylinder?

You've got yourself a darned good revolver. Bet you paid a pretty penny, too. Some products are expensive because people have gotten obsessive over the fit and finish, and some are expensive because building them well enough to work safely takes extra steps, better materials, that sort of thing. Magnum revolvers are the latter. If you want materials and heat treatment and construction that can stand up to magnum pressures for a lifetime, and you also want fit and finish that can stand up to closeup photos, you're going to pay a lot more.

In short, enjoy what you have - it's a darned good revolver, and I'd be proud to own it.


*still a good idea even with stainless. I do it with every firearm I have, blued, phosphate finish, stainless, even aluminum.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you GhostHorse, i appreciate it. I paid 900 € (aprox $ 1040), which i can see is double the american price. But here in Europe, guns are 2-3× higher prices than in US.

The gun has so little recoil even with stout fiocchi rounds, that i feel like i'm shooting .38 specials. If i know this i'd buy .454 instead. Even my small wife can handle the 240 grainers in my bull, which wasn't possible in my 629 or Ruger SR. Unbelievably accurate and well behaved gun. It will also serve me as a home defense gun and i prefer it to my other .44s, since i'm sure i'd be able to handle it better and more accurate under stress than ruger or smith.
It is a bit front heavy, but i'm getting used to it.

As for the "finish", i'm waiting to get hoppes 9 i ordered from amazon. Then i'll soak the whole gun in it and brush it with soft brass to remove this ugly greyish-black dirt or whatever it is.
Will post pictures and report after i shoot some coated bullets and then clean it properly with hoppes.
Have a nice weekend!
 

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........As for the "finish", i'm waiting to get hoppes 9 i ordered from amazon. Then i'll soak the whole gun in it and brush it with soft brass to remove this ugly greyish-black dirt or whatever it is......
If its of any interest to you, common every day mineral spirits can be used to clean your gun instead of having to wait (and pay) for Hoppe's.

Check out what this guy says in his video. He's a former Viet Nam vet, law enforcement officer and armorer for Smith & Wesson and Ruger for many years & has some very good tips on gun cleaning & lubing.

 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well i shot a box of coated magtechs 240grs and i didn't find any shavings around the forcing cone. So it looks ok as far as the cylinder lineup. But i did notice an end gap being uneven after i cleaned it really good with my newly arrived hoppes 9 and brass brush. It was 0.006" on the left side and 0.008" on the right. But as long as it shoots ok and doesn't shave, i wont even bother with it.
Btw, have any of you guys ever sent some bullets through the cronograph out of your .44 bulls? I was wondering what is the velocity loss due to the long cylinder made for .454 (larger bullet jump) and the porting? I compared the cylinder lenght to my ruger SR and it seems the same, if not even little longer lenght (i have no MM to measure it properly). The bullet jump from the cylinder to cone and barrel must've been significant to atribute to some major velocity loss.
So if any of you who own RB in .44 have some velocity data, i'd be happy if you'd share it with me.
Thanks!
 
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