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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Taurus PT99 AF and recently noticed an issue with my trigger. With the slide off the trigger works great in both SA and DA. With the slide on the pull is ridiculously hard and does not "trip" the hammer correctly. When I let up on this hard trigger pull sometimes the hammer will drop.
Are there any parts I can examine or things to try prior to bringing it to a gun shop or send in for warranty? I am pretty mechanically inclined and would prefer not to pay 2 way overnight shipping to Taurus for warranty work if I can do something on my own. I expect the shipping alone to cost $80 round trip.



First time poster here, I hope this is the right board to put this on.
 

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Hi 67Mustang and welcome to the forum. I'm going to move your thread to Smithing for more targeted attention. If you do have to send it back, it's only one way shipping as Taurus pays the return trip. I used my friendly range/FFL to send some in for repair. An FFL can send a handgun by US Postal while you cannot. My charge from them was under thirty bucks.

edit to add...it's hard to buy parts/service for that price. The drawback is turn time which used to be six weeks...now ten or more maybe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your help relocating my post and with the shipping information!

That might be the solution then if FFL can ship it ground and I only pay 1 way. I must have read the warranty policy incorrectly. It will be my first time sending it off as it has been flawless up until now for the last 10 years.
 

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They may have changed the policy, but that was the way it was early in 2017 when I sent my PT 92 AFS back. The slide had locked up totally, in battery, probably due to a cracked locking block. Was right around six weeks from sending to receiving. Good luck with yours. Others will be along with possible ways to get yours going without having to send it off. Many of the Beretta parts work in this model and should be readily available.
 

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My guess is that it is the trigger bar on the passenger side of the frame. Many times this will be due to a new set of grips being installed causing excess force on the bar under the grip.

Either loosen the grip panel on that side of the frame and see if that doesn't make a difference. Or you can try removing the grip panel all together, but then you may have to apply a little compression against the trigger bar to engage and reset.

I would hold off on sending it in, there is usually a simple answer to be found.
 

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If your not sure what the trigger bar looks like you can pull up a break down photo off of either this site or GOOGLE. The trigger bar is on the passenger side of the pistol. It extends from forward of the leading edge of the grip to under the grip. When you pull the trigger you will see it move.

Hope this helps,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jonrjen,

Thank you! I will try this out tonight and see if it makes a difference. I know exactly what bar you are talking about. I am skeptical that is the issue only because it works fine with the slide off, no resistance whatsoever but I am going to try taking the grips off and see if that makes a difference. Right now I have the stock grips on but I have some Hogue grips and rosewood ones I can swap as well.
 

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I would think with the slide on and only having problems it may have something to do with the firing pin block. Take the slide off and see if the firing pin block is moving smoothly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would think with the slide on and only having problems it may have something to do with the firing pin block. Take the slide off and see if the firing pin block is moving smoothly.

So I compared my firing pin block to a sigp226 and mine can be moved but it is VERY stiff compared to the Sig. Anything I can do to help loosen this up if I do a complete strip down or should I just send it in at this point? Will doing a strip down to gain access to the firing pin block void my warranty?
 

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If they get knowledge of you detail stripping the gun, they may have issues with it.. In the past they have required a nominal fee to "reinstate" the warranty...also in the past they would still OEM parts even if aftermarket parts were added...example...if aftermarket sights, extended slide lock, single sided safety were added to a PT 1911 and you sent it in for a broken barrel link, they would fix the barrel link under warranty...if the safety malfunctioned...no dice. I might also add here that if you send a gun back in for warranty repair...if it's got tritium sights or special grips etc...good idea to take them off. If they decide to replace your gun with a new one, it comes back to you as an OEM gun with stock parts.

That's the way it was in history...it seems that policy changes like the wind these days...so be sure to ask and record the name/dates of your conversation.

edit....at this stage of your problem...I would probably try to have it ultrasound cleaned...your LGS or range may have the equipment if you don't. Might be the easy way to get crud out of places you can't see or reach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If they get knowledge of you detail stripping the gun, they may have issues with it.. In the past they have required a nominal fee to "reinstate" the warranty...also in the past they would still OEM parts even if aftermarket parts were added...example...if aftermarket sights, extended slide lock, single sided safety were added to a PT 1911 and you sent it in for a broken barrel link, they would fix the barrel link under warranty...if the safety malfunctioned...no dice. I might also add here that if you send a gun back in for warranty repair...if it's got tritium sights or special grips etc...good idea to take them off. If they decide to replace your gun with a new one, it comes back to you as an OEM gun with stock parts.

That's the way it was in history...it seems that policy changes like the wind these days...so be sure to ask and record the name/dates of your conversation.

edit....at this stage of your problem...I would probably try to have it ultrasound cleaned...your LGS or range may have the equipment if you don't. Might be the easy way to get crud out of places you can't see or reach.

That is good advice, mine is mostly stock but i will make sure it has stock grips etc on before sending it. I am actually on hold with Customer support right now to see if they will just send me a replacement firing pin block. They mailed me a few parts for my pt22 once, worth a shot. I will keep you posted on what happens.
 

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Well if it was a PT-92 I would say clean it yourself. Since it is a PT-99 I would use extreme caution as if you damage the rear sight you are out of luck. That said, carefully removing the rear sight will release the spring and components to clean the trigger block. If you do it yourself use caution as parts will go flying if you are not careful. I suspect it just needs a good cleaning or may possibly have a bur that needs removed.
 
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Thank you Fishin! Yeah in hindsight I would have went with a 92, less moving parts to worry about.
If you attempt to disassemble it...be sure to work inside of a large plastic bag...lose part/s off the rear sight and you will NEVER find replacements. (I wonder how Taurus Miami does it?)
 
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