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Anybody know how to disassemble a PT809 extractor?

I took a look at the parts diagram, and watched a video of some other semi-automatic (can't remember which), and it looks conceptually easy: Punch out the extractor pin (part 1.07), remove the extractor, LCI, extractor spring, LCI spring (parts 1.05, 1.08, 1.06, 1.09 respectively).

Is it hard to reassemble? Do you need special tools? The springs look awfully tiny. I have tweezers which might fit, but there are a lot of parts to line up prior to inserting the extractor pin.

I'm quite sure the extractor channel is caked with dirt. When I shoot Gunscrubber through the firing pin channel to de-oil it, the extractor keeps dripping black stuff. I've never managed to get it to run clear, so I think it might need direct cleaning.
 

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I was able to remove the extractor for the 809 already. First of all, I'm not a gunsmith and the info posted here is how I did it. I won't be held responsible for any damages to your gun by following the method I used.

All you need is a hammer, the grip removal tool (Taurus key), thread lock red. Dave you can get Cyclo thread lock from true value in the Phil.

First disassemble the slide and locate the pin for the extractor and lci.





from inside the slide use the Taurus key and align it with the end of the pin.



Carefully tap the key with the hammer to push the pin out.



Once the pin is out, the back section will pop out. Be careful the whole thing might fly out.



Slide the extractor and lci toward the front of the slide a few mm then pull out the whole assembly to the right of the slide.



You are done. Here are some pics of the assembly just incase the springs falls out of place







When assembling the extractor and lci, the small spring will not have any tension. Just drop it in the small channel.

I find easier to assemble the whole thing by puting the main spring in the slide first. Put the spring a few mm towards the front of the slide since you can't drop the extractor and lci directly into place. Drop the assembly ove the spring then slide the whole thing towards the rear.



Put a drop of thread lock on the tip of the pin (section where the pin is exposed on the top side of the slide). Put the pin in the hole at the top of the slide. Before tapping the pin with a hammer push the rear section the extractor in the side to align the holes for the pin. I decided to use thread lock since the pin kept on moving while i was shooting with out it. I've gone through 400 rounds of major loads already with out the pin moving the the tread lock.





Next project is to tweak the trigger and install night sights :D
 
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thanks for the demo bro..ill chk my extractor claw for condition and abnormalities around the area:)
 

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No problem :D glad to help. I know how hard it is to get the Taurus warranty here in the Phil. Had to learn on my own to troubleshoot the 809 with the help of the threads here :) My latest work on the 809 was lightening the final pull of the trigger on SA got down from 5-6 lbs to 2-3 with out removing the take up of the trigger. It now shoots like my match grade 1911 triggers. Hehehe next step night sights!
 

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Thanks for the very informative step by step pics! I also noticed in your picture your were able to take apart the internal (hammer support #16) from the frame. Would it be too much to ask if you can show us how you did it too? It could be the answer to the my post a few months ago on this forum on how to take a 845 apart.

Thank you.
 

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My post about taking apart the 800 series (http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/smithing/47126-800-series-breakdown.html) last Feb of last year went unanswered. I think you have to answer to that post. Anyways my concern was the 1. Taurus Security Key and 2. the small springs and components that might fall off once the hammer support has been removed from the frame. You experience and wisdom will be of great help to all of us 800 series users.
 

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Hope you can update us also on your next tweak ( trigger and night sights). Am currently looking for night sights on my 845 too.
 

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I'll post the pics tonight for removing the hammer support. As for the trigger job I'll post it after 1000 rounds to be sure that the mod is reliable and wont do any accidental discharge since its so light.

The basic concept to remove the hammer support is to remove the pin located near the hammer with a 3/32nd punch. If you don't have one you can use an old firing pin or a 1.5 mm allen wrench. When that is out pull the whole assemble up at an angle. To do this just grab the hammer pull it up whil pulling the trigger(do this in DA mode). When the hammer assembly is out just pull the trigger bar to the side to remove it from the sear. I'll do step by step with pic tonight when I clean my 809.
 

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By the way what about the Taurus Security Lock once you pull out the hammer support? I believe there are very small components in the Taurus Security Lock. Will some of the components fall out as well? I think that was my biggest apprehension. Based on other blogs there is a small metal ball and a spring and some bloggers I read had a hard time if putting it back it but then again it was for a different Taurus Pistol.
 

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That part has never fallen off for me. The ball and spring of the 800 series doesn't come out of the frame. The safety of the 800 works as a block only for the hammer rod. It limits the travel of the hammer. I haven't gone in the actual key hole since I disabled the safety all together by grinding down the hammer rod.

The only small part the might get lost when disassembling the decocker. When you remove the left lever there is a ball bearing on top of a compressed spring. If this flies you can kiss it good bye. Like I did hahaha. Had to make my own safety plunger from old 1911 parts.

I created a guide on the disassembly here. http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/s...-series-removing-hammer-support-assembly.html
 

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Just saw the link. It was very informative and am sure on behalf of all 800 series users its greatly appreciated. Dont have plans of taking it down further that removing the hammer support. By the way looking at my 845 extractor which was replaced by TT. I noticed that the extractor claw was not chipped by worn down! Soft metal?? I fired around 300 or so rounds before it was replaced. After replacement I fired another 300 or so rounds so far so good.

Thanks again bigdlow. Your the MAN!
 
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