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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just picked up my 709 slim today, let me just start by saying this is an extremely beautiful and light gun! Now to the issue, I read before that they come lubed up(as most guns do) but this baby is drenched, so I was gonna give it a good cleaning, but I can not for the life of me figure out how to release the slide?!?!:) the included manual just aint doin it for me.
 

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You have to pull the trigger after you have taken the pin out. If it is like the Mil Pros and 24/7s. The Gen2 24/7 I think have a switch like device that you disengage.

And of course make sure it's unloaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya there is no pin, it says 1 dry fire, pull slide back with 4 fingers while using your under hand to push the slide release button down.. and thats pretty much it :/
 

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Sorry I was wrong. I checked out the manual. Maybe someone else here can help better. Not having one of these I was going on what I have.

2. Hold the pistol in the right or left
hand in such a way that four fingers rest
over the slide and thumb rests on the
rear of the grip. Using the fingers draw
back the slide about 1/8”. With the
other hand pull disassembly latch
down. Release slide. Release
disassembly latch.
 

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Are you bringing the slide back the 1/8 inch?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I figured it out, gotta love you tube.. I was not holding the pieces on the side down... whoops
 

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After you have pulled the slide back 1/8", pull the take down tabs down and push the slide forward. While keeping the tabs down, release the slide and pull the trigger while pushing the slide forward with your thumb. Whoops, looks like you got it while I was trying to type and talk at the same time. Enjoy your new 709
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After you have pulled the slide back 1/8", pull the take down tabs down and push the slide forward. While keeping the tabs down, release the slide and pull the trigger while pushing the slide forward with your thumb.
Thank you, what is the best way to clean all the excess lube? I saw a post on here somewhere but cant find it now...
 

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Gun Blaster works, but Non clorinated brake cleaner is also safe. Just make sure it's the Non, because that's safe for the plastic. Then lube her up good.
 

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Should be fine. You may want to blow it out good with compressed or canned air between the cleaning and lube phase. Check the label of the cleaner to make sure it's safe for plastic. Then "test in an inconspicuous spot".
 

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Another thing to pay attention to is the striker channel. Spray cleaners are useful if you don't feel comfortable taking the striker out. The striker channel needs very little if any lube. If there's any thing in there it will collect debris and cause light strikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another thing to pay attention to is the striker channel. Spray cleaners are useful if you don't feel comfortable taking the striker out. The striker channel needs very little if any lube. If there's any thing in there it will collect debris and cause light strikes.
is that the piece with the 2 springs? I took that out and wiped it down, it appears to have "blue"
debris on it.. I put a tad bit of Rem oil on the 2 springs
 

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The striker (firing pin) has a front spring and a rear spring. One to propel it into the primer and one to return it back into the breach. I would go with a half drop of Rem Oil on my finger then rub it on the striker and springs, while leaving the channel dry. I've never had light strikes(misfires), nor undo striker wear doing this.
 

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I think the two springs that you are talking about are the recoil springs on the guide rod under the barrel, the striker is in the handle part of the pistol; Let us know when you are totally confused.
 

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is that the piece with the 2 springs? I took that out and wiped it down, it appears to have "blue"
debris on it.. I put a tad bit of Rem oil on the 2 springs
The striker channel is the orange plastic thing inside the slide. The striker (and its captive springs) ride inside this channel.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think the two springs that you are talking about are the recoil springs on the guide rod under the barrel, the striker is in the handle part of the pistol; Let us know when you are totally confused.
not confused I got it now. so whats the best was to clean the gun then? spray cnc brake cleaner over the slide and ALL Components ??? and what about the polymer ? i used hoppes #9 and q tips on the polymer and components
 

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When the pistol is assembled at the factory they pretty much coat the parts with a preservative grease. This gunk isn't a very good lubricant. I would use the spray cleaner to flush all the nooks, crannies, and moving parts clean. The brake cleaner dries quick and leaves no residue. Watch your eyes while spraying! A lot of folks use the guidelines of, a little oil if it rotates or is articulated, and a tiny bit of grease or thicker oil if it slides (i.e. the grooves in the slide that engage the rails on the frame). One thing to remember is that a quality pistol should be lubricated sparingly. To much lube collects grit and will grind away at the components. A new firearm may need a touch more lube to assist in the the break in period, but after 200 or so rounds it may be a good idea to field strip it do a normal clean and lube. The polymer used in firearm production is really good for chemical resistance, but caution is good. Q tips work great to apply oil where you need, and the straw on the spray can works well to flush the striker channel out. Hope this helps. Have fun and be safe.
 

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Think Glock for teardown - go to YouTube.

I had parts of my SKS in the oven (on very low) to get the cosmoline that I could not reach. my 709 is in transit - can't wait to see this goo that I'm hearing about!

SKS TG II.jpg
 
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