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Discussion Starter #1
Folks-

I have multiple handguns, and am proficient with them. So the issue is not user error.

what I notice is- if I have the weapon (3rd Gen PT145 Pro in .45ACP) in Condition 1 or 2 (round in the pipe) and need to clear the round for any reason (administrative handling, stepping down to Condition 3 or 4, etc), the round will not dependably eject. It hangs up on the ejection port in the slide- almost like the port is not big enough.

IE: drop mag, pull slide back- round jams in the weapon more often than not, getting stuck between the ejection port and the breech, sometimes even making a stovepipe.

Weapon shoots just fine with no malfunctions, but should I have a misfire and need to clear the weapon quickly, this will be a problem. Anyone else run into this?

Further information: I don't have any problems whatsoever with the exact same situations/actions with my PT111 Pro, 24/7 Pro in .45, 24/7 Pro in .40, Tanfoglio Witness in 9mm, CZ82, P11, P40, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also should point out-- it's not a matter of a heavy spring in the PT145 Pro. The springs in my P11 and P40 are MUCH stiffer and thus the slide is more difficult to manipulate and I have no problems with those weapons.
 

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I have only notice similar, when I am loaded with 147 JHP. They do not seem to want to come out of the ejection system, but I have usually already removed the mag, and can get it to drop down the grip. My instructor, teaches to turn the gun 90 degrees right when clearing, and letting the round drop out that way, so you can get back in action quicker. But when it happened to me even that did not help.
 

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My Solution

I had this problem too. I always test new pistols by cycling snap caps. In this case I used Traditions brand snap caps which have a brass rim and red plastic "bullet". The PT 145 would not eject these cleanly. The nose of the dummy round would hit the port wall and the rim would fall from the extractor claw, with the round either laying there or jamming in the port. I noticed marring of the nose of the red plastic dummy round.

The gun has never jammed on me when shooting it. The only problem I had was clearing unfired rounds from the chamber when racking the slide on a loaded gun. For safety, it is best to test this with plastic snap caps, not live ammo. I believe the problem was a combination of weak extractor tension on the rim and the nose of the round hitting the edge of the ejection port, knocking the round off the extractor. The full round would then lay there in the port and sometimes jam. With the barrel removed from the slide I noticed that the extractor claw was not pressing on the case rim enough (using a 230gr unfired full round) to hold it there against gravity, despite a strong extractor spring. The claw is twice the size of a 1911 claw and is the reason the gun ejected spent cases fine, despite very little rim tension. I was able to remove the extractor, but must warn you that there are many small parts that come out with the extractor and this is not a job for a rookie home gunsmith. The extractor has a raised flat that presses against the extractor slot in the slide. I filed this flat just a little (the extractor is extremely hard steel and a quality item by the way). This improved rim tension slightly. I should have stopped there. Instead I went back and Dremeled a little more. I recommend that you only use a hand file for this job and not use power tools that can easily remove too much metal. The enemy of good is better. This was too much as now the rim tension was too high. Nuts! I corrected this by filing down one end of the extractor spring a small amount. I thought I had messed up, but my back up plan was to order a new extractor and extractor spring and start over. (I recently heard these parts can be difficult to obtain) However, in testing with the barrel removed, the tuned extractor will now hold a full round with just enough tension, when before the round would slip off from gravity. When shooting the gun I had no jams or misfeeds and ejection was sure and consistent. Sweet! So I did not screw up and did not have to order new parts. My extractor claw is now 0.5 mm closer to the firing pin hole and now makes contact with the rim. I can now pivot the extractor claw outward with moderate finger pressure (before the extractor spring was so stiff, that it would not budge with finger pressure)

Part of the original problem was the nose of the round hitting the ejection port. I carefully filed the inside lower front right edge of the ejection port so snap cap rounds and live rounds would clear. I only had to remove about 1.5 mm of material. It is important to file a smooth round corner, not a sharp cormer, to preserve slide strength. You can see from my photo the shiny area where I filed the port on the bare slide. If you take the bare slide and load a round under the extractor and tilt the round towards the port, you will see the contact area. I checked this clearance many times during the process to make sure I hand filed just the right amount in the right area. I finished it off with fine sand paper and meticulously cleaned the slide afterwards. Note: the outward appearance of the ejection port was not changed at all. I did not have to lower the port, only bevel it.

Between brands the extractor position and tension vary considerably. My PT145 had very strong extractor spring which makes case rim contact and extractor position critical. I think my mod may help compensate for ammo of slightly differing rim diameter. My gun currently ejects racked live rounds and fired cases with 100% reliability and I am now confident that clearing a live round will not jam the gun. I can now cycle entire mags full of snap caps with brisk ejection and no jams. However, I caution you not to perform this on your own guns as it could void your lifetime warranty. I love to tinker and could not help myself.


The above photo shows the port beveling job on the inner lower front corner of the ejection port for better clearance when racking the slide to unchamber live rounds. Before the porting, the nose of an unfired round could hit the edge of the port, fail to eject, and sometimes jam. This photo also shows an unfired 230gr 45ACP round being held in place by the tuned extractor on the bare slide. Before tuning the extractor, such a round would slip off by gravity. Don't try to hand load a round like this on an assembled gun as it is very dangerous, remove the slide and barrel first!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wildrice-

thanks for the info, this is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for.

I can't help myself, either- love to tinker. I'll be doing this to my weapon once I figure out how to remove the extractor.
 

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Taurus_Jeeper said:
Wildrice-

thanks for the info, this is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for.

I can't help myself, either- love to tinker. I'll be doing this to my weapon once I figure out how to remove the extractor.
I do not have the guts for that operation yet! It is only the unfired that can hang up, the 115's and 124's do not seem to hang in mine.
 

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I would only consider removing the extractor if the bare slide cannot hold a 230gr unfired round under the extractor claw. Your stock extractor tension may be better than mine was. The extractor was not dificult to remove since the design of the PT145 is very good. I removed the extractor by driving the extractor retaining pin out the top of the slide using a 1/8" brass punch. A steel punch could deform the retaining pin end. This pin can only be driven up and out of the top of the slide by drifting the pin from the bottom of the slide. Be aware, there are many small parts that come out when the extractor is removed: the extractor, the extractor spring, the loaded chamber indicator, the loaded chamber indicator spring (which is teeny tiny), the firing pin block and spring, and the extractor retaining pin itself. The extractor retaining pin is shaped like a nail with the nail head on top, which is why it is unidirectional. To reassemble, I had to depress the firing pin block, depress the extractor/loaded chamber inicator under spring tension, and push in the extractor retaining pin all at the same time. You can feel the extractor retaining pin slide into place if everything is lined up and the extractor/loaded chamber indicator should pivot normally. I then tapped the pin in place the rest of the way (about 3 mm) with a brass drift from the topside of the slide. You have to check that everything pivots normally and that the firing pin block is functional. Also there is the possiblilty that too much metal will be irreversibly removed and you could end up with too much extractor tension. I also heard that Taurus does not like to send extractors directly to customers since it is a critically fit item. So you do not have margin for error. I would rate this as a 7 out of 10 in difficulty.

The port job may be all you need and it rates only 2 out of 10 in difficulty. I rate it 2 because you need the proper files and must do a meticoulous cleaning of the slide afterwards. You must check clearance with a tilted snap cap round.
 

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Robby,

I am only refering to the PT145 45ACP in the above posts. I also have a recent version PT111 9mm. My PT111 has an ejector port that is well oversized for the 9mm round, so I did not have to do a porting job on the PT111. My PT111 also had more than adequate extractor rim tension.

Theoretically, if the ejector is too long, the ejection timing could be off. The ejector could be knocking the rim before the nose of the bullet has cleared the chamber. A way too short (or broken) ejector could make cases dribble out of the port. My PT111 clears unfired rounds and ejects fired cases just fine and the extractor and ejector are well within specs.
 

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Well I have had some 147gr JHP's hang up when clearing the gun, but not enough to be a problem. When fired they all come out just fine. In a bad situation, I do not expect to be doing an unload, unless for some reason the 2nd strike does not work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not getting the bit about the slide work with regard extractor. Can you post pics of what you're talking about there with regards "holding the round" and so on?
 

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dont know what your problem is but i had the same thing happen on my hi-point 995 carbine.

i've got a 120 shots in it, flawless operation so far.

however hand cycling the gun will only eject normally if i pull back slowly.. and they barely kick out.

if i try to pull back fast i have extraction or ejection problems.

only about 5% of the rounds actually kick out.. most of the time they just come loose and jam up.

however if i tilt the gun ejection port down it's fine.

i do not know whats wrong with this gun.. perhaps nothing.. it fires perfectly but does'nt kick out like it should when cycling by hand.

sounds very similar to your situation with your gun.. it fires perfectly but wont cycle by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
examining my gun now- seems I have the same issue that WildRice does

I will round the lower part of the slide window and see what happens. That was my initial impulse, but didn't know if it would effect lockup. doubted it would very much, but it'd be an expensive lesson .
 

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Checking extractor tension



To check extractor tension you must first triple check that the gun is unloaded, field strip, and remove the recoil spring and barrel from the slide. This is what I meant by testing the bare slide. Do not even think about hand loading a live round in an assembled gun. That would be extremely dangerous.

Holding the bare slide, take an unfired 45ACP round (in the photo it is a 230gr FMJ round) and slip the rim of the round under the extractor claw, so that the round is held to the breech face. In the photo, I have the round held low with the primer below the obscured firing pin hole. This is the position the casing should be in during extraction/ejection (note how the loaded chamber indicator is not fully pushed out). During firing, the casing is held higher than in the photo. Nothing is holding the round up from below. Only the extractor claw is holding the round against the breech face. When my gun was brand new I tried this test and the extractor did not hold an unfired round in place.... it would promptly fall out. This is part of the reason I was having jams when clearing live rounds. The nose of the round would bump the ejection port which would knock the rim away from the extractor claw, leaving the round in the port.

After I filed an inner surface on the extractor to allow the claw to move closer to the firing pin hole, there was then too much tension on the rim and the round was hard to slip in place and hard to remove. I had filed too much off of the extractor. I compensated for this by slightly shortening the extractor spring.

Now the extractor is ideally tuned: the extractor claw will hold an unfired round to the bare slide at all slide angles, but is not held too firmly. If I were to give the bare slide a good shake, the round would come off. This is the test Bill Wilson uses when tuning 1911 extractors. I used the same methodology on my PT145. I don't know if I am correct in transferring that method on this Taurus pistol, but in snap cap cycling and live fire range shooting, it gives the best performance and reliability.
 

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Guys, the last post on this before today came when George Bush was in office......I think the OP probably either got it fixed or sold the gun. ;)
 

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I've been having issues with my PT145, and I just put a new ejector in last week, and it had the same issue. So I put about a 5 degree angle on the ejector. That gave it the little extra room it needed for assembled rounds (i.e. duds) to reliably eject. Problem solved. Gave the empty brass a bit more lift too. And here's how it ejects -

 

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I've cycled a full mag of live rounds through mine (safely) with no problems. I'll keep an eye out for any problems. Thanks for the heads up.
 
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