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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my PT145 for some time now and like everything about it EXCEPT it won't work with my reloads.
About 6 of 10 won't fire, even on the second or third strike. They all go bang first time, every time in my Kimbers, even the rounds that didn't ignite in the PT.
I'm using mixed head stamp brass & Winchester primers.
Figure there's no point in contacting Taurus, they'd just say not to use reloads in the first place.
 

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My PT145 shoots all of my reloads. I use mixed brass with CCI primers. Never had a light strike from any brand or reloaded ammo.

Have you ever had it light strike any commercial ammo?
 

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I've had my PT145 for some time now and like everything about it EXCEPT it won't work with my reloads.
About 6 of 10 won't fire, even on the second or third strike. They all go bang first time, every time in my Kimbers, even the rounds that didn't ignite in the PT.
I'm using mixed head stamp brass & Winchester primers.
Figure there's no point in contacting Taurus, they'd just say not to use reloads in the first place.
sisco, I have the single stack version of yours, the PT 745. I have just started reloading for my 745 but have not been able to go to the range yet, I hope to go next week. I'll let you know how my range time works out.
I don't know what generation yours is, but mine is gen. 3. Also I use CCI Primers. We'll see if I have any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Never had a problem with factory ammo. I switched from CCI to Win primers a long time ago due to misfires in other calibers & guns. (allegedly CCI's are harder material). Unsure of the 'Generation' of my piece, bought it new in '08.
 

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Have you ever detail stripped your slide to lean out the F/P channel? I had light strikes/failure to fire in my PT 145 and found the firing pin channel all gunked up. I bought it used and it probably never had been cleaned of the packing grease. What I DIDN'T find was the tiny FP return spring :( and had to order another from Taurus...be careful when you take it apart.
 
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Have you ever detail stripped your slide to lean out the F/P channel? I had light strikes/failure to fire in my PT 145 and found the firing pin channel all gunked up. I bought it used and it probably never had been cleaned of the packing grease. What I DIDN'T find was the tiny FP return spring :( and had to order another from Taurus...be careful when you take it apart.

Is there a video anywhere showing how that's done? I have never cleaned my 745 because I'm afraid I won't get it together again.
 

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Have you ever detail stripped your slide to lean out the F/P channel? I had light strikes/failure to fire in my PT 145 and found the firing pin channel all gunked up. I bought it used and it probably never had been cleaned of the packing grease. What I DIDN'T find was the tiny FP return spring :( and had to order another from Taurus...be careful when you take it apart.
Here's a tip: take it apart inside a gallon size food storage bag. that way when it goes "boing", the spring should be inside the bag.
 

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The plastic bag idea is a good one! I was moving between the basement and the garage to use BrakeKleen to blow out the channel and the firing pin, when I got back to the basement I was missing that darned spring. Live and learn (someday I hope to do the latter!)
 

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Ain't no way to sugar coat it...ya just gotta get better QC on your hand loafs cuzin...;)
I agree. There's your problem. You've got something going on with your reloading methods. I just don't believe it's the pistol or your components.
 

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I use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube when I want to flush out something but want to leave some lubrication there. Been doing this for about a year on numerous guns to keep from tearing them all apart. Use it on my LNL press and dies for lubrication and cleaning too.
So far it seems to work fine for this, I just wish they would put it in a larger can.
 

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To me the fact that they work fine in a 1911 but don't detonate reliably in the PT145 suggests it's time for a good cleaning. One of the first things I did with mine was to do some polishing on the inside of the firing pin channel with rolled up 600 grit sandpaper, as well as some light polishing on the firing pin itself - inside and out. I also lube it with Rem Dri Lube with Teflon, and that also helps. I disassemble mine on every cleaning and make sure the channel is clean.

Personally I think it's a good idea for two reasons - first, there's just no substitute for removing fouling by mechanical means. You can get a lot of it out by spraying, but you won't get it all out. Second, it affords you the opportunity to inspect the parts, and there have been a couple members who have had the plastic firing pin spring assemblies break. It's not common, but it's worth checking. And be careful not to ham fist it when you're removing the little plastic dust cover. Pry too hard and you'll spring it, and it will generally pop off with the first shot. They're cheap, not necessary for proper firearm function, and available from Taurus, but a little care when removing it can save you the trouble. Just pry it up far enough to clear the firing pin stop. That being said I always keep several extras around - JIC.
 

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I've had my PT145 for some time now and like everything about it EXCEPT it won't work with my reloads.
About 6 of 10 won't fire, even on the second or third strike. They all go bang first time, every time in my Kimbers, even the rounds that didn't ignite in the PT.
I'm using mixed head stamp brass & Winchester primers.
Figure there's no point in contacting Taurus, they'd just say not to use reloads in the first place.
My PT145 is very fickle about what it feeds but once it is in the chamber it allways fires. Mixed used brass with SWC feed flawlessly and go bang with CCI small Rifle primers
 

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I shoot nothing but reloads in my PT145. (230 grain ball ammo (lead) with Bullseye powder and prescribed load as per Lee's loading manual.) Went out to the range today (yes I know it's Christmas Eve but a man has got to get his priorities right) and put about a hundred flawless rounds thru her and had one fail to fire. Second strike, still no luck. Chocked it up as a "dead primer."
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all and the best for the NEW YEAR.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I agree. There's your problem. You've got something going on with your reloading methods. I just don't believe it's the pistol or your components.
The fact that they all work fine in other guns and the ones that won't work in the PT work in others suggests there's no problem with the rounds themselves.
 

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The other thing that I recall reading here about the firing pin of the Mill Pros is that they can be subject to "peening" with use or dry firing without snap caps which could result in a change in the OAL of the FP. Did you detail strip the slide and clean out the FP channel yet?
 

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The other thing that I recall reading here about the firing pin of the Mill Pros is that they can be subject to "peening" with use or dry firing without snap caps which could result in a change in the OAL of the FP.
Actually where the peening occurs is on the firing pin block. Only reason I know is 'cause I did it. Pretty easy to fix, but it will slow the firing pin down enough for the odd light strike. I found a little ridge (for lack of a better term) forming on my block, and I removed it with a little light filing and polishing. Light strikes went away. Good thing to check, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Haven't gotten to the cleaning yet, holiday travel & festivities in the way. ;-)
It has had a fair amount of dry firing.
 
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