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What if anything have any of you done to smooth out the PT111 trigger?.....i got one as a replacement for a 24/7. I'm not talking about the break point or double single feel.....but it has a real bad rough spot in it....like the trigger safety don't fully disengauge.....and some times it's so bad the trigger don't want to fully reset.....thanks for any help....
 

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Lots of shooting helps. Also using the pad of your finger not the joint to pull it straight back. Due to the size of the gun, the trigger seems to be sensitive to the trigger finger placement.
 

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Of course, first off, Welcome to the TA Forum. We're happy to have you.

One option of course would be to call the customer service number at Taurus and let them take care of the problem for you. Another would be to use the search function here on the forum, this has been discussed more than a couple of times.

One last option would be to replace the trigger with a new aftermarket trigger that is manufactured outside of the Taurus authorized aftermarket parts free market. It however deletes the trigger safety all together, will void your warranty and takes away the SA/DA functionality of the pistol.

Personally I would send it back in ASAP so that it falls under the timed grace period where Taurus will pay shipping both ways to correct the problem. But, then I am just that kind of a person, who believes in "Do It Right" manufacturing. It also would not be my only firearm for personal protection so time taken to correct the issue would not be a matter that I would need to consider.

Good Luck and again Welcome,
 

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I got my first PT-111 G2 in November 2015, and really liked it! Feels good, looks good, a great manual safety, and has really good capacity for a small carry weapon. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it had a distinctive “click” as I pulled the trigger back in single-action mode before I reached the break. The "click" that I'm talking about isn't so much heard, as that it is felt in your finger. I thought perhaps this was normal for this gun, thinking that the trigger had to move past some linkage in the area where it would engage the striker in the “double-action/second-strike” mode.


Friends that tried it sometimes thought that it miss-fired when it “clicked” without firing. I had to tell them to keep pulling. You could even feel the click when the gun was broken down, and you pulled the trigger on the grip alone.

I still liked the gun though. So much so, that I ordered another one in February 2016. I get the new one, and guess what.....No Click! I then realized that there's something wrong with my first PT-111.


After chatting with other members on this forum, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger safety-blade. Apparently the spring tension on the safety-blades of some PT-111's is inconsistent with others, causing the blade to resist retraction, and the safety mechanism to "rub" when it does retract, resulting in a "click".


Sliverbullit said: “It's the trigger safety. Turn it upside down, and watch as you pull the trigger. Bet you will see the hook on the safety barely catch the edge of the trigger. I filed the edge of the hook, and it is 90 percent better.” You can search for Silverbullit's “Fix for trigger click or catch” thread on this forum.


Ledbeter36said: Read my post - “Observations on pt111 g2 after complete disassembly”. I point out some things you can do, and filing is a good fix.”


Before I did a full disassembly as Ledbeter36 recommended, I wanted to try something less drastic, so here's what I did. I tied back the trigger safety-blade with fishing line, then heated the grip, inside and out, with a hair-dryer and let it set a couple hours. I did this several times. Now my "click" is hardly noticeable. I think a few more applications and my “click” will be gone completely.


There seems to be an even bigger problem with a small percentage of PT-111's (approx 5%). Some people complain about the trigger being “extremely” hard to pull. Some have even broken off the trigger safety-blade completely. I wonder if the broken safety-blades that some people are experiencing is caused by blades with even stronger spring tension than mine, preventing the safety mechanism from retracting at all. As the shooter pulls harder on the trigger, the blade breaks off. If that happens all you can do is send it back to the factory for repair.


Try my hair-dryer trick and see if that helps.
If not, you can try Silverbullit's or Ledbeter36's recommendation.
GoodLuck!
 

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Here is what I did, and with some stones smoothed out the right parts. Also installed a stainless striker housing from Lakeline LLC.
Not sure if this voided my warranty:confused:
 

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Had an issue with it. Instead of voiding my warranty and removing the trigger safety, i used some heat shrink tubing on the trigger. Basically, bypassing the trigger safety
 

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Take an abrasive like rubbing compound and put it on the trigger bar at the front and rear where it slides under what I think is the disconnector. While putting pressure against the trigger bar laterally toward the right side of the frame and downward at the rear, work the trigger many times...I did this last night over about 5-8 minutes...maybe a few hundred trigger pulls. Rinse out the compound with some Clean Strike or Simple Green and flush it will with warm water. Dry it with a heat gun or WD 40...I just shook the water out of mine. Lube it up and enjoy a much better trigger pull.

BTW...defeating the trigger safety turns your pistol into the ones that are recalled IMO...drop it with a loaded chamber and you may have a ND.
 
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Hi all, 1st post here. The trigger safety problem is not isolated to the PT111. I just purchased 2 PT 140 g2's and they both have the same problem. I believe it stems from one thing that can be cured in two ways. The problem is the safety catch that prevents the trigger from moving freely is not being raised enough to fully release the trigger in it's path of travel. The primary reason for this seems to be the trigger safety's forward surface does not protrude far enough so that when the finger pushes on it from a not so direct angle it is not depressed deep enough in the trigger to fully release the safety, thus the rough catch feeling as the trigger is pulled back. Filing would certainly take care of the problem as long as it is not filed to much to make it useless. Building up the forward surface of trigger safety with some king of plastic compatible epoxy or heating it and bending it's arch a few degrees forward may be preferred. Perhaps someday someone will simply make a replacement trigger safety that will work properly with all fingers.
 

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Hi all, 1st post here. The trigger safety problem is not isolated to the PT111. I just purchased 2 PT 140 g2's and they both have the same problem. I believe it stems from one thing that can be cured in two ways. The problem is the safety catch that prevents the trigger from moving freely is not being raised enough to fully release the trigger in it's path of travel. The primary reason for this seems to be the trigger safety's forward surface does not protrude far enough so that when the finger pushes on it from a not so direct angle it is not depressed deep enough in the trigger to fully release the safety, thus the rough catch feeling as the trigger is pulled back. Filing would certainly take care of the problem as long as it is not filed to much to make it useless. Building up the forward surface of trigger safety with some king of plastic compatible epoxy or heating it and bending it's arch a few degrees forward may be preferred. Perhaps someday someone will simply make a replacement trigger safety that will work properly with all fingers.
In addition to my post above, I went to the safe the following day to replace the dehumidifier and tried the trigger again to find that the "notch" or "hitch" had returned.

I got the heat gun out and used a wire twist tie to wrap the trigger blade tight in the closed position and gave it five minutes with low heat (it's a strong heat gun) on both sides of the frame/trigger. Tried the pull and it was almost there. Another five minutes and the trigger pull is straight back with -0- hesitation.

Thanks to 777 Driver for the procedure!
 
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3/8” Heat shrink on the trigger. Disengages the trigger safety. Smooth pull without that annoying bump.
The trigger blade was instituted to prevent the trigger from moving backward in a drop situation with the momentum causing the striker to fire the primer in your chambered round, wasn't it?

I am thinking that making a PT 111 G2 the same as a recalled PT 111 Millennium isn't the best answer for most people. Maybe that's why they're called trigger "safeties".
 
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That "rough spot" you're feeling is the back end of the Taurus Safety lock (or whatever that locking mechanism is called) and its get smoother over time. Also, it will help if you place an emory board in between the trigger bar and the frame and gently polish the trigger bar with the tan-colored side of the board (not the brown side). You'll need to apply a little pressure on the board to pull the trigger bar away from the frame so you don't start shaving the inside of the frame.

Use a patch with some bore cleaner on it to wipe away any particles and then run some high quality lube or oil in between the bar and frame. I use Tetra Grease, Tetra Lube or my new-found favorite, Slip EWL

There is a Youtube video that goes into sanding down the back end of the locking mechanism which I feel is unnecessary. I have both the PT111 and the PT709 that use the same trigger system and also share the same problem with that stupid locking mechanism.

I've put about 2,000 rounds through my PT111 and don't feel the trigger bar hitting anything anymore.

One last thing: the long initial trigger pull is a safety feature that also allows the gun to go into double-action mode for second strike capability, meaning, "If the gun don't go bang, pull the trigger again!"
 

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I've done a number of things I've read/seen in various places including taking the slide off and holding the frame and working the trigger many times while watching TV and taking the firing pin assembly out and cleaning (not very dirty but a little grunge in its bore I wiped out and lubricated with dry film lubricant), feels pretty good now.

A question for the more experienced: Does the firing pin block(1.14) just lift out with a pair of tweezers or is it held captive by the extractor? I thought I'd take it out and polish.
 

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The two thing's I've done that have improved the trigger greatly are shown in the video's I made below. Cleaning of the firing pin spring and striker guide, as well as installing a new striker guide that have done wonders. If you want to improve your trigger without spending money, go with the cleaning as it made a huge improvement in my PT111 G2's trigger, but to get rid of the sticking and also improve the trigger, I'd recommend getting the striker guide from Lakeline LLC. There's more you can do to improve this trigger, but I'd start off with a good cleaning!

Firing Pin/Striker Guide Cleaning:

Striker Guide and Firing Pin Springs Install:
 

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Once again, excellent vid. Took about 7 mins to remove the old striker guide and put the new Lakeline stainless steel striker guide in. Nice and smoove now!!

One question: Other than just having a spare set, does the Lakeline firing pin spring and return spring offer any performance upgrade?
 
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