[Eeyore]

I had my first malfunctions at the range today, and I need some help on this one.

As usual, I loaded one snap cap randomly in each mag for "dud round" clearing practice. After a few mags, I noticed that the trigger was no longer going to DA after the first try on the snap cap. It continued to fire real ammo just fine. I ejected the mag and tried dry firing--again, no DA. I loaded another mag, and had the same thing when I reached the snap cap. After I cleared the snap cap and released the slide, the next round jammed. I discovered the firing pin was still protruding. This prevented the back of the round from sliding all the way up to level, so the slide jammed with the round partway into the breech.

I realize I'm darn lucky that the round didn't seat--with that pin sticking out it might have hit the primer before the slide locked up. I got the slide unjammed, went home, disassembled and cleaned everything. Nothing is visibly broken, but the striker stays further forward than it's supposed to. The little spring on it stays compressed, and the spring embedded above the little rod looked wavy or a little crooked. I couldn't remember if that's how it normally looked before. Cycling the slide and letting it snap forward will dislodge the firing pin, but it still sticks forward once it's fired. I've got about 650 rounds thru the weapon, mostly WWB. I'm assuming it's gunk in the firing pin channel. But how do I clean it?

I attached some photos , showing how the pin is protruding and the spring I mentioned.

[attachment deleted by admin]

 

[Eeyore]

OK, new info:

1. I've figured out why the DA isn't working. The plunger is sticking too far forward (you can see this clearly in the first picture). This keeps the firing pin extended and also keeps the plunger too far forward for the trigger bar to "grab" it and recock it for the second strike.

2. Now I'm having trouble getting the slide back onto the frame. The lobe on the trigger bar outside the right-side rail normally drops out of the way without complaint, but now I'm having to nudge it clear. Then, the cam at the very rear of the frame is protruding just a hair too high, and bumps into the plastic firing pin channel cover at the back of the slide. I have to push the cam down into the frame to free up the slide to move the rest of the way to the back.

I'm thinking this gun has a trip to Miami in its future....

 

[Steelheart]

I'd recommend getting a can of Gun Scrubber. Its an aerosol gun cleaner/degreaser that is sold at Wal-Mart in the gun/sporting goods section.
Disassemble the gun so you have access to the firing pin chamber. Take the slide outside as this could get messy. Eye protection isn't a bad idea either. Spray out the firing pin chamber from the larger end. Shake out all the gunk and extra fluid. Repeat from other end if possible. Do it a couple of times if you want to. Reassemble gun, lube it well and see what it does. This method worked when I was removing cosmoline from my SKS.

Now, someone who's more familiar with the Mil Pro's might have an easier or simply better method of doing this. This is just what came to me off hand.

Additions for new info: I'd hit those areas that are acting strange with the Gun Scrubber too. You might have some gunk there as well. Yes, the gun may still need a Florida vacation but this is worth a shot.

Steelheart

 

[Qwiks draw]

Part of the problem may be using the snap caps in the magazine with live ammo. While this is accepted method for learning about possible flinch or trigger jerking the gun wasn't designed that way. This is a compact pistol and the physics and function are being compromised somewhat, by doing what's being done to the gun overall.

Putting a dud round or snap cap in the mag and then firing with live ammo mixed in can cause malfunctions due to what's stated above.

The violence of the action and parts are designed to act a certain way. Put dud rounds in a compact or sub-compact pistol and things do not work the way they are supposed to.

http://www.taurusarmed.net.forums/index.php?topic=2418.0

With dry fire practice the extractor has something to grab when the round is ejected and the slide manipulated. Most snap caps were designed for dry fire practice and cycling by hand, but not towards the violence of actual firing live ammo.

The extractor can not get under or grab a hold the rim of the snap cap/ empty brass and function the way it is supposed to under those circumstances.

Neither can the rest of the action function as it is supposed to.Damage to the gun could result from a number of things by doing this. Moving parts are out of whack due to function not happening the way is is supposed to.
Looking the gun over for problems and trying a few rounds for fit and function is called for.

Having a accredited local gunsmith take a look just to be sure would also be adviseable.

Granted the manual and Taurus may have not said anything aobut all this. Maybe they have and I missed it. Either way using snapcaps for dryfiring practice and manually working the action seems the best way to do things for guns that this kind of problem can arise in or have the potential for.

Snap caps mixed with live rounds can work is some brands,makes , and models. Usually the larger guns this will work in. Not all however. There is no guidance manual for this overall, but it would be nice if there were.

This is all a 'beware, this can happen to you' kind of thing unfortunately.

 

[Eeyore]

No joy with the GunScrubber, unfortunately. I'm boxing it up for Miami today.

 

[Robby]

Bummer, lets hope they get it back to you ASAP!!

 

[rwcreigh]

did you just get it?can you return it to where you got it from?

 

[Eeyore]

did you just get it?can you return it to where you got it from?

No, I've had it for about 1.5 years. Up until now, it had functioned flawlessly.

 

[jgullock]

Looks like your captive firing pin assembly may be busted (the spring under the firing pin looks crooked).

 

[Eeyore]

Looks like your captive firing pin assembly may be busted (the spring under the firing pin looks crooked).

Your diagnosis was correct. My "little friend" returned from Miami yesterday (5-6 week turnaround), and they indeed replaced the captive firing pin assembly. I haven't test-fired it yet, but operation appears normal. They practically dip the entire thing in oil before they ship it--I had to disassemble and wipe excess oil off every piece, inside and out.

 

[ccw08]

Is 5-6 weeks a normal turn around? I guess that is why its a good idea to buy more guns lol I have enough handguns that I probably wouldnt miss one that much for that long but it still sucks that you have to wait that long

 

[rwcreigh]

congrats.let us know how it worked.

 

[Eeyore]

Range tested the PT111 yesterday, and it has returned to its usual flawless performance. I even loaded one mag with amixture of leftover WWB (ball) and Federal frangible hollowpoint (a good 1/8" shorter than the WWB)--no feed problems.

The new captive spring is painted red, with a HoJo greenish-blue guide rod kinda thingy in it. I don't remember the guide rod thingy being there before. New design, or just a new paint job that emphasizes its presence?

The thing is still shooting low and left. With over 700 rounds thru it, I'm confident at this point that it's the sights causing the problem rather than the trigger. I usually audition a different rental gun at each range trip (yesterday it was a Colt 1911 Commander), and never have the low-left issue with them. Unfortunately, I don't have an hex wrench small enough to move the front sight at the moment.

 

[jonyrotten]

Unfortunately, I don't have an hex wrench small enough to move the front sight at the moment.

hahaha, i've got one but it doesn't do any good. the genius that put the set screw in my wife's 24/7 used a 50 foot johnson bar to torque it down, it's completely impossible to loosen. i'm really starting to wonder about these guys.

 

[VegasGuy]

hahaha, i've got one but it doesn't do any good. the genius that put the set screw in my wife's 24/7 used a 50 foot johnson bar to torque it down, it's completely impossible to loosen. i'm really starting to wonder about these guys.

Others have reported the set screw is set in place with Lok Tite. Heating it with a hair drier has proven successful in making the job easier.

 

[stephpd]

Had a similar problem with the pt145 but it was my fault. Being a tinkerer I just got to take things apart. Messed up the firing return spring and loctited it back together but just a little shorter.

I have since bought 3 sets of replacement springs for the pt111 but the firing springs for the pt 145 are on back order for the last 2 months. Asked them to ship when they come in,as a backorder. But nothing yet. You'd think for a part that cost $1.00 retail they should get a few every now and then. :???:

 

[jonyrotten]

Others have reported the set screw is set in place with Lok Tite. Heating it with a hair drier has proven successful in making the job easier.

thanks, i'll try that