I have one on mine, works great!!!
PT111 G2 Trigger Replacement: It Works and It's Worth It
Lots of people sneer at making mods to a $200 gun: "If you're going to pay more, then pay it up front."
The G2 has a combination of the features I want that unavailable on other guns, which make it worth owning for me at any price. And my motto is: "If it's worth owning, it's worth customizing."
So I've got Lakeline SS springs and fiber optics on my G2 guns. And I've just recently tried a new trigger.
I went carefully by the inventor's install instructions. There are some things to be careful of. I've never really done any significant gun work before, but this was easy enough (I have done a lot of auto work, though, including engine overhauls).
One thing: You can order a pack of 250 chromed 2.5mm ball bearings from Amazon for $8.50. Don't ask me why I know that.
A disappointment is that the trigger is polymer (like the original) dyed black, but it's only surface dyed, not "dyed in the mass," so if you try to do any custom shaping, you'll cut through the dye layer and reveal white polymer underneath. Don't ask me why I know that.
Something else that may or may not become a disappointment is that the OEM trigger (which is polymer) has a metal sleeve bearing where it surrounds its main pivot pin. This replacement trigger has no bearing. I'm not sure how much of an issue that is, because the ends of the pin itself actually rest loosely in its mount on either side, so it should be free to turn--there really shouldn't need to be any movement of the trigger around the pin.
There are several styles of replacement triggers available from this inventor on his eBay sight that offer straight, slightly curved, and full curved triggers with two amounts of pull length. The finish matches the finish of the polymer gun frame.
I chose a conventionally (full) curved trigger with the greater amount of pull (which also leaves more space for a gloved finger).
Differences from the OEM trigger:
1. SAO. Not a big loss for me because I won't intentionally pull again on a round I realize is bad, I'll tap and rack. In my experience, a bad round won't change its ways with a second strike.
2. No trigger-momentum safety. Maybe this means if I drop it on its butt in just the right way with the thumb safety off, it'll go fire. OTOH, I no longer have to worry about that trigger safety breaking, which seems to be more likely to happen.
3. Half as much trigger pull (in SA, of course). A big complaint with the trigger is that it pulls sooooo far back before it hits its wall, and then soooo far back before it releases. This trigger has less than half as much free travel before it hits the wall, and then breaks about twice as far from the rear of the trigger guard.
4. A very wide, flat face. The full trigger width is really the same as the OEM trigger, but because it's flat face rather than rounded and because it doesn't have the safety lever in the middle, it really feels like a big shelf under your finger.
Basically, it would have taken me about two hours initially, watching the video carefully for each step, except for a ball bearing issue. If I had to do it again, it would take less than an hour. Re-installing the tiny trigger spring is a bit trying.
Tools: Some old drill bits to punch out the drift pins, a tack hammer, a pair of small needle-nosed pliers, a small hooked scribe tool, a small magnetic parts pan. I used a block of wood as an anvil to drive out the pins--solid, yet won't scar the gun. Also, I'd pre-drilled 1/4-inch holes in the wood to put below the pins so that as I pounded them out, they had somewhere to go.
Now, about that 2.5mm ball bearing. That's the bearing that rides the detents in the thumb safety. When I first reassembled the gun, it got out of place in some way and the safety didn't move correctly. When I took it apart again, the bearing ran away and hid from me, that treacherous rebel scum. Use a tiny dab of grease to hold the blighter in place. That was the only mishap I had with the process. I have two more guns, so I may use a couple more out of that bag before I'm done.
How did it feel and shoot? Pretty darned good. That wide flat trigger has a unique feel. The closes thing to that wide shelf I've ever felt before has been some revolvers that have a wide trigger to soften and control a heavy pull. It seems to do the same here, as well--it makes the pull weight feel less. For sure, it was more comfortable to shoot with after a couple of hundred rounds. I thought the edge would bother me, but it didn't.
Although I'd learned to like the long pull all the way back of the OEM trigger, it was sure easy to get back used to a short pull again. The face of the trigger fell naturally right under the pad of my first digit.
I will outfit my other guns with this trigger.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PT111-G2-G...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
![Gun Trigger Black Black-and-white Gun accessory]()
The G2 has a combination of the features I want that unavailable on other guns, which make it worth owning for me at any price. And my motto is: "If it's worth owning, it's worth customizing."
So I've got Lakeline SS springs and fiber optics on my G2 guns. And I've just recently tried a new trigger.
I went carefully by the inventor's install instructions. There are some things to be careful of. I've never really done any significant gun work before, but this was easy enough (I have done a lot of auto work, though, including engine overhauls).
One thing: You can order a pack of 250 chromed 2.5mm ball bearings from Amazon for $8.50. Don't ask me why I know that.
A disappointment is that the trigger is polymer (like the original) dyed black, but it's only surface dyed, not "dyed in the mass," so if you try to do any custom shaping, you'll cut through the dye layer and reveal white polymer underneath. Don't ask me why I know that.
Something else that may or may not become a disappointment is that the OEM trigger (which is polymer) has a metal sleeve bearing where it surrounds its main pivot pin. This replacement trigger has no bearing. I'm not sure how much of an issue that is, because the ends of the pin itself actually rest loosely in its mount on either side, so it should be free to turn--there really shouldn't need to be any movement of the trigger around the pin.
There are several styles of replacement triggers available from this inventor on his eBay sight that offer straight, slightly curved, and full curved triggers with two amounts of pull length. The finish matches the finish of the polymer gun frame.
I chose a conventionally (full) curved trigger with the greater amount of pull (which also leaves more space for a gloved finger).
Differences from the OEM trigger:
1. SAO. Not a big loss for me because I won't intentionally pull again on a round I realize is bad, I'll tap and rack. In my experience, a bad round won't change its ways with a second strike.
2. No trigger-momentum safety. Maybe this means if I drop it on its butt in just the right way with the thumb safety off, it'll go fire. OTOH, I no longer have to worry about that trigger safety breaking, which seems to be more likely to happen.
3. Half as much trigger pull (in SA, of course). A big complaint with the trigger is that it pulls sooooo far back before it hits its wall, and then soooo far back before it releases. This trigger has less than half as much free travel before it hits the wall, and then breaks about twice as far from the rear of the trigger guard.
4. A very wide, flat face. The full trigger width is really the same as the OEM trigger, but because it's flat face rather than rounded and because it doesn't have the safety lever in the middle, it really feels like a big shelf under your finger.
Basically, it would have taken me about two hours initially, watching the video carefully for each step, except for a ball bearing issue. If I had to do it again, it would take less than an hour. Re-installing the tiny trigger spring is a bit trying.
Tools: Some old drill bits to punch out the drift pins, a tack hammer, a pair of small needle-nosed pliers, a small hooked scribe tool, a small magnetic parts pan. I used a block of wood as an anvil to drive out the pins--solid, yet won't scar the gun. Also, I'd pre-drilled 1/4-inch holes in the wood to put below the pins so that as I pounded them out, they had somewhere to go.
Now, about that 2.5mm ball bearing. That's the bearing that rides the detents in the thumb safety. When I first reassembled the gun, it got out of place in some way and the safety didn't move correctly. When I took it apart again, the bearing ran away and hid from me, that treacherous rebel scum. Use a tiny dab of grease to hold the blighter in place. That was the only mishap I had with the process. I have two more guns, so I may use a couple more out of that bag before I'm done.
How did it feel and shoot? Pretty darned good. That wide flat trigger has a unique feel. The closes thing to that wide shelf I've ever felt before has been some revolvers that have a wide trigger to soften and control a heavy pull. It seems to do the same here, as well--it makes the pull weight feel less. For sure, it was more comfortable to shoot with after a couple of hundred rounds. I thought the edge would bother me, but it didn't.
Although I'd learned to like the long pull all the way back of the OEM trigger, it was sure easy to get back used to a short pull again. The face of the trigger fell naturally right under the pad of my first digit.
I will outfit my other guns with this trigger.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PT111-G2-G...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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