I used an extra fine ceramic stone normally used for knife sharpening and some 2000 grit sandpaper lubed with oil. I made sure the stone had 90* edges so I could square up the sear engagement surfaces. My pistol already had a few thousand rounds through it before I did this so when it was apart you could see all the surfaces that rub as the finish was removed or slightly worn. Also any uneven surfaces were even more evident versus tearing down an unfired pistol. I just wrapped the stone with the sandpaper and shined up all the non critical areas. Smoothing out all of those surfaces along with the 16lb. spring really help with the DA pull. For the SA pull most of the 'trigger job' is in polishing the sear engagement surface. I used the stone lubed up with oil and squared up the hammer hook to where it had a good 90* angle on it. Then polished and squared the sear in relation to the hammer and added a slight bevel or secondary angle to the sear. With the secondary angle the sear has less contact surface (think friction here) with the hammer which really makes the pull even better IMHO. But that is the important area where you don't want to remove too much. You can also remove some of the depth in the hammer hook height to reduce the distance the sear has to travel to release the hammer but I did not. There are a lot of guides on how to do 1911 trigger jobs and a lot of the principals apply to any pistol so I would start there.
All in all it is actually pretty easy. Just take it apart and polish all surfaces where there is contact. The sides of the hammer and sear, inside of trigger bar, pin holes, sides of the trigger that is in the frame, etc. You can take everything to a mirror polish if you want but in reality if you can run your fingernail over it and it feels like glass any further polishing is just for looks. The real hardcore trigger jobs polish all possible surfaces that rub down to the firing pin safety plunger. But the majority of the SA trigger job (~90%) is in the hammer and sear relationship. The rest of the polished parts help with the DA pull.
Also if you do decide to do an all out trigger job you can drill out a hole on the back of the trigger and epoxy in a pin so it hits the frame when the trigger is pulled all of the way back. It should not drop the hammer at first. You then file it down more and more until the hammer does drop. Then just take a few more strokes with the file for insurance and you have just made an overtravel stop. Do a function check to make sure everything works fine and if not just remove a little more material. Try to find a picture of Ernest Langdon's speed bump trigger for Beretta's to get an idea of where to drill for the pin.
Also I didn't mean to demean your mechanical ability but this is the internet so you can never be too sure. As to the Flitz I have never used the stuff but have heard good things about it. As far as polishing I have heard Flitz is good for surfaces that are already smooth but to take a rough casting to a mirror shine takes a lot more work, polishing compounds, etc. Hope my rambling has helped you some. I can get a little long winded sometimes. ;D
Oh, I almost forgot, when you are all done and reassembling use a good moly lube or even the militec treatment as McGavin has done to really get the trigger slicked up.