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The older PT92's are pretty simple. Similar to changing it out on a Beretta. Go to http://beretta92fs.com/ and click on "Removing mainspring (changing for 'D' spring)" for a video on how to do it. The newer ones with the internal lock I hear are more difficult to do but I only have experience with the Beretta's and older Taurus'. I have heard there is a second pin to knock out above the lanyard, but it releases some very small parts which can easily be lost and difficult to get into place for reassembly. Just pay close attention to the arrangement of things when you take it apart and be patient and all should go well.
 

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Choffman has it absolutely right.. it is same as beretta except there is a 2nd pin which retains the internal lock on the newer guns, there is a spring, a security peg (which is the lock) and at least 1 tiny ball bearing probably smaller then a ball point pen..

i did not notice this when i first took mine apart there aparently is actualy a 2nd bearing but i was able to after several hours reset one the one ball bearing i found and it seems to function just fine.. it is a moot point since i have a rubber back strap on mine so i can't use the lock anyway.. it's safe to remove the security peg altogether but you will have a hole in the back strap.

if you attempt this on a newer gun with the lock do it very carefully.. it is a nightmare to reset the bearing on them and incredibly easy to loose.
 

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I have a 16 year old Taurus PT92 and I have that video of the Beretta mainspring take down. My 92's lanyard does not move when you push on it like the Beretta does, so is all you have to do is push out the pin, conrtol the spring from flying away and just change the spring? Do you have to take out the arm it surrounds and then re-align that arm, or is it just the spring by itself?

Also, do you have to take off the ambi. decocker/safety levers to do this?
 

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all you have to do is remove the grips, remove the pin, and slide out the lanyard loop/plug
the hammer spring will come out with it..

then just drop in another hammer spring, replace the lanyard loop and insert the pin..

you dont have to take the hammer or hammer strut (the little arm thing) or anything off/out.

then just replace grips and you're good to go.


if you dont have the internal lock to worry about it's cake walk.
 

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joe sixpack said:
all you have to do is remove the grips, remove the pin, and slide out the lanyard loop/plug
the hammer spring will come out with it..

then just drop in another hammer spring, replace the lanyard loop and insert the pin..

you dont have to take the hammer or hammer strut (the little arm thing) or anything off/out.

then just replace grips and you're good to go.


if you dont have the internal lock to worry about it's cake walk.



THANK YOU VERY MUCH
 

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I use a PT100 with the lawyer lock on it as a duty weapon. I'm PA Title 22 (Special Police Officer). My question is this: Does removing the lock all together affect legality of using the weapon if I ever have to? Thanks for the info.
 

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well i dont think it effects the legality, the gun does'nt require the internal lock by law,
some will say it could pose a legal liability, but i dont believe that either.

you'll probably get a lot of opinions on this.

i put some pachmayr wrap arounds on mine.. it came with a rubber backstrap and i gotta tell you the rubber backstab not sure if you can just buy it but it alone made the gun feel better and it covers up the backstrap, i can't engage the lock even if i wanted to (which idont) because it's covered up now.. i had a hard time putting the lock back in when i took mine out to change the spring.. almost gave up but it does leave a rather ugly hole in it's place.
 

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Oh man! Let me tell you! That thing was a bite in the tush to put back together. I had a tiny spring flying one way and a ball bearing going the other. A little lock-tite remedied the need for the spring and ball bearing, but what a dumb invention. I like the good old Beretta style push pin best. But if thats the least of my worries, who cares right?
 

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yes i try to warn people about it, i spent many HOURS trying to reset mine.. almost lost it about 3 dozen times, prayed and said a few hell marry's, it is definitely HELL to reset back in place.

i did'nt even realize there was a ball bearing until i looked down and seen it on the floor.

absolutely i could probably do it a lot easier the 2nd time around but it is a nightmare 150%.

the lock it self is very simple but getting it in place is anything but.

other then the lock changing the spring is pretty simple 10-20min job.
 

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I've got an 18 pound mainspring and another 13 pound recoil spring on the way from Wolff. I had originally ordered a 17 lb. mainspring and a 14 lb. recoil spring, but I decided to just keep it at factory strength until I have more time and ammo to try that. I'll be putting the mainspring on in a few days and I actually did not need to get another recoil spring cuz I sent the old used one into Taurus and they sent me a new one. Oh well, my collection of springs continues. Has anyone here ever tried a heavier recoil spring(14lbs) and a lighter mainspring mainspring(17lbs)? Also, do you need a special pin punch for the mainspring? Mine is a hollow pin.
 

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im running the factory recoil spring and a beretta 92D hammer (main) spring.

i do not know the poundage on them though.

no need for a special punch, dont know the size right off hand i have a set of punches and just grabbed the one that was the closest fit.
 

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5lb's iirc.. or maybe a little under that.

EDIT: actually if this guy is correct it's 8
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2145939&postcount=7

not sure what the taurus factory spring is rated for but it does'nt feel as heavy as the FS springs.. so it's somewhere between FS & D

92FS--Trigger pull factory spring = DA 11.8lb
SA = 5.55lb

Trigger pull with "D" spring DA = 8.10lb
SA = 4.00lb

Trigger pull with "Comp" spring DA =8.0
SA = 3.8
 
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