PT 1911 Mods

The 1911 is a "mil-spec" meaning that given the fact that many parts are slightly over-sized to allow for slight variances. Such things as grips are universal... firing pin should fit out of box, however extractors tend to need to be adjusted and all safeties are slightly oversize. Make sure that the part you replace are a matter of "true interest" rather than just the typical swap out the parts scenario! Realize the the fire control parts are matched, so if you replace the hammer then realize you will want to replace the sear and disconnecter from a "matched set".

The genius of the Taurus PT1911 is that it tends to be a reliable and accurate gun. Get replacement parts (ejector, extractor, etc) if you wish for the just in case moment... but do the cheap things that really personalize your gun... grips and finish on the slide or frame.

Good luck with you new gun... look at the pictures. Just be careful about paying $500 for add-ons and upgrades. Folks who then want to sell their guns take a bath on those parts... a $1,000 gun with upgrades on sale for $750. Check out the Springers that have been "personalized".

Welcome Navy Seal. If that is just a nick name, glad to meet you. I'm fairly new to the board myself. If the name represents the fact that you have completed Navy Seal training then I stand in awe and want to say "Thank You" for your military service. Wecome aboard!! ;D . I earned my nickname on the NRA High Power competition circuit.

You mentioned grips so let's start with those. It would be in your best interest ($$) to get catalogs from Midway (800-243-3220), Natchez Shooters (800-252-7839) and Brownells specialty 1911 catalog. (800-741-0015). Also Call Wilson Combat (www.wilsoncombat.com) (800-955-4856) and get one of their catalogs. Hogue offers some awfully nice grips in various hardwoods but to the best of my knowledge none are inletted for the ambi safety. So you need a Dremel tool and some patience. The Taurus grips are thin and actually contured (side view) for the hand grip. They offer a good grip surface but they are UGLY and do not do justice to the pistol. For me since I have small hands thin was a requirement. I found the perfect solution (for me) in the Chip McCormick "Slim Carry" Checkered Rosewood grips Part #83000. (Midway, 2007 Master Catalog, Page 628, Part# 957-443 @ $43.99.) This grip set is inletted for the ambi safety and also includes the smaller frame grip screw bushings as well as new (shorter) screws and the installation tool. These grips are also offered in the slim line smooth if you don't like checkered.

A word of caution on removing and installing grip screw bushings. Taurus uses a screw adhesive, so you need the proper size screw driver for removal. (Wheeler Engineering make a special screw bushing tool for removal/installation.) Acetone is the only thing I have found that will remove the residual adhesive and clean the frame screw threads. These are 60tpi threads and are fragile. Install the new CMcC shorter screw bushings with Loctite #242 (blue). Just be careful not to cross thread the screw bushings. Once all four are installed put the pistol down and don't touch it for 24 hours. Now install your new grips using the provided wrench.

One of the best investments you can make is to order the video "Colt 1911 Complete Disassembly and Reassmbly" from Wilson Combat. The next is the book "The Combat Auto" by Bill Wilson. Your Taurus PT-1911 is a clone of the Colt Gold Cup, Series 80 and uses the frame style fit code "O". Frame styles are listed on Wilsons Web site as well as page 92 in his catalog.

Your PT-1911 Taurus firing pin is probably a life time part, however if you dry fire about 300,000 times you might need a new one. A spare extractor is a good part to have on hand, but unless you kow how to disassemble a Series 80 you will never get it out and I consider it a shop bench job on a big white towel. (You need the Video.)

The Taurus ambi-safety is an almost duplicate/clone of the Wilsom Combat #192 Tactical ambi-safety. So why change? (They aren't cheap!) So you need to ask yourself, do I really need an Ambi-safety? Do you know how to get it apart without damaging or scratching the frame? For all of my competitive matches, even shooting weak hand I have never used the right side safety. Unless you are left handed, carry left handed it is just a "look good" part. Everytime you field strip the Taurus for a deep cleaning /lube job you will have to pry (Emphyhsis on pry, it is an interference fit) it apart. After a few times of being pried apart it won't stay together. The are a pain in the rear end. I replaced all my 1911 Ambi's with a Wilson Combat #6 Extended Thumb Safety (Wide). Unless you know how to fit a safety and have the files, it's a gunsmith operation.

I don't know about refinishing. (I have done gold inletting, now that really makes it stand out!) The scratches and holster wear marks just add character to the pistol. It's like painting a car with some expensive paint and hand rubbing it out. Someone is going to open a door next to you in the parking lot and ding the side.

There are more WC drop in mods that will help, but this is getting to long. Buy the video and book, shoot a 1000 rounds to break it in and then we can talk accuracy mods.

Once again welcome aboard.

High Power Bob in wet and cold SC.

Well, thank you for the welcome! It is just a nickname, though I have always wanted to join the service, I have been having knee ligament problems since HS. This has always kept me out of consideration, though it is well enough for running and training, never good enough for the Navy. Anyway, I have put about 2000 rounds through the gun in 2 weekends, and no breakages after that brass failure. The rounds were severely overloaded during that failure, they were loaded with max charge and magnum primer. When I looked at brass, they were literally dozens of cases that were bulged at the web, I guess that last one was just too weak to handle it. Anyway, the last range visit I put many rounds through it again, and aside from one squib that lodged the ledge a few inches into the barrel, nothing else went wrong. I put a set of Hogue rubber grips on it, and I love them. IMO, much better feeling than the stock plastic grips. So, after the last range visit, the trigger got really sludged up. I didn't de-grease the thing after I purchased it, and after 2k rounds the internals were all gummed up with powder and grease. The internals were stuck together with grease, but after a whole bottle of Hoppes #9, and some elbow grease, the whole gun frame and each individual part was shiny clean. I then Flitzed every single piece of the thing, and put it back together. I really like the shine that the flitz brought out in the gun. Also, I could tell the wear points on the internals were the finish was rubbed off during operation, and shined them up to a mirror finish. Overall, I really like this gun. I was thinking about put a Group Gripper kit from WC in it. Do you think it would produce anything noticeable, as far accuracy?